Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 12:20 pm, by: Tom Nicol(Goosemonger)
My apologies for posting a done-to-death subject - I've done a lot of searching and reading, but I can't seem to get a definitive answer on which oil is the best suited to my engine.
I have a 1JZgte 2.5L TT, stock turbos and engine and it's done over 200,000 kms.
I live down in Geelong, it's fairly cold climate quite often, but every time I start my car on a cold engine I let it warm up for as long as I can.
I don't drive it hard constantly, just every now and then give it a boot full to blow out the cobwebs and maybe relieve a bit of work stress.
So far I've read things like this, From PlanetSoarer "For the TT only full synthetic will do to cope with the turbo heat."
Also heard "Toyota Spec is 10W-30. Don't go too far outside of this."
And I've heard somewhere that "A full synthetic oil can have a negative effect on your engine if you haven't been running it."
So that is why I'm a little confused.
Now for the shameful admissions I don't know what kind of oil my mechanic has been using (he changed jobs so I'm going about the minor servicing on my own now) Also I've never changed oil before so that might explain a few things
I know that because it's my daily with an old engine, it might not really mine what oil it has in it, I just want to give it the longest, healthiest life possible. If anyone can give me a straight forward answer... well I'll buy you a beer if we ever happen to meet. Cheers!
Brian Timms Goo Roo New South Wales TT Soarer Goodness.
Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 12:49 pm, by: Gavin Smith(Gavs)
Tom, I know that I will probably get flamed for this, but as your car has done well over 100,000kms i would recommend a semi synthetic blend. I don't know about a "negative" effect but unless you ran it from day 1, you will not notice a "positive" effect either. If you reco'd the engine or re-built it, then yes, fully syn would be better for your engine, but with older engines, it has been proven time and again, that fully synthetic engines cannot deal with the heat from forced induction and the long-chain hydrocarbons that make up the oil start to break down into ever-smaller hydrocarbon chains, resulting in your oil becoming un-effective as it has in essence, come apart from a full liquid, into droplets.
In short, use a synthetic blend, your engine will need the properties that come with a mineral oil, and the lubricity only found in a synthetic.
Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 04:42 pm, by: Shane McInnes(Soarin_tt)
I believe a 5/50 or 5/30 or anything below 10 is just to thin, Our engines are old and need something a tiny bit thicker, id say with the 10/30 or even a 15/40, 15/50 If the engine was new or just rebuilt etc then i reckon a 5/30 etc would be fine. Dont get me wrong there is plenty guys out there using 5/30s etc with no problems im only going off what my mechanic tells me he suggest to stay away from thinner oils with older engines (its common sense really)
Ive had my car for 5years now and travelled 120,000kms in it and ive always used a fully synthetic oil weather it be 5/40 10/30 or 15/50 etc
I now have 268xxxkms
Ive used all different brands and i couldnt tell you which one is the best, I personally think aslong as you stay in the right guidelines and change your oil religiously every 5000kms then your doing the right thing by your engine.
I will say though i used Penzoil for some time and i did like it, it left the oil nice and clean the longest. Only reason i changed was because where i bought my oil from they stoped supplying that particular Penzoil oil.
These days due to my ammount of Kms ive done im using full synthetic 15/50 or is it? 15/40 Nulon Oil with Nulon stop smoke additive for the Valve seals.
The 1JZ is a strong reliable engine, just do regualar oil changes and stay around the 10/30 guidelines and you should be right mate.
Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 08:25 pm, by: Andrew Stewart(Daboom)
i have now owned my car for nearly a year, and done 4 oil changes in that time (5000kms per service) and only been using penrite SIN 10/70, and never had an issue. the car runs smoother, the turbo seems to like it better, and have never had the oil light come on when the car is running, only when the car is doing pre-ignition checks, which is quite normal. I was speaking to my mechanic, who has devoted most of his mechanic career to import cars, and the only oil he uses in nissan engines is castrol 10/60, however he said for the 1JZ & 2JZ engines, he said that 10/70 is a good balance for weights. However, it is up to you, just speak to a few mechanics, call a few performance centres and just ask them on their opinion.
Hey tom hows it going, i use the mobile 1 10w something aswell on mine, im gonna get some one way to uni on friday, and do service after uni on friday arvo / night. I have to do oils and filter, dump the rad water and put the toyota coolant in, and chance over my fuel pump ecu's. Let me know if you need / want a filter for the oils, i bought 2 from castle hill week or 2 back, one for now one for next time, but i will have to order some more parts soon off them. Other wise just get geelong toyota they have them in stock.
Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 09:17 pm, by: Charlie Ters(Ul05st)
Andrew Stewart wrote on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 08:25 pm:
only when the car is doing pre-ignition checks
sorry.... i believe this is 100% not normal...most engine wear happens in the first few seconds... (i agree that maybe the 10-70 is probably better then the 5-60)
mobil 1 invest a lot of $$$$$$$ a year on improving oil/research (as they are only 1 of 2 oil base suppliers around)... penrite make good ads
even now, penrite have made a new oil range (5-50 everyday driving-full synthetic + and other weights)....reason? to target mobil 1 possibly as Sin didnt go as well planned....
Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 09:21 pm, by: Jeff Smith(Mozzie)
I have never had an oil light warning from day one and at the start I had Niall do my oil changes and he uses penzoil.Go with what mechanics use and you can't go wrong.
Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 11:17 pm, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
Depends what you use your car for and what condition its in.
I know a few prominent figures in the industry that use; Daily = Mobil1 10-30w or Mobil1 0-40w Track/Dyno tuning = Castrol Edge 10-60w
If your cooling system is in good nick, you won't have trouble running a 'thinner' oil. If cooling is poor and you're doing track work - you will lose high temp protection very quickly with 5-30 or the like.
As far as i know; the less the gap between the numbers, the more stable the oil is as a compound. A 5-50w will generally break up quicker under heat and pressure than a 10-30w.
Lets be realistic, not many of us do track work or lap after lap of racing. Pick a synthetic oil that suites your budget and shows minimal consumption between changes.
I wouldn't try it in the 1J, especially because its SAE rating is 0-30w which is very light if you're after turbo longevity (ct12's are getting tired).
The cheapest oil in the test (Mineral Shell 20-50w) rated higher than Mobil1 and Castrol synthetics in terms of wear properties. Go figure! It seems better protection = less peak HP. Mobil1 0-40w is probably the best compromise.
Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 10:20 am, by: Scott Casey(V8soarer_1991)
i have a pdf on oil testing by a lab that used a machine with a certain weight applied to each over time. then was checked.
The best oil with the least scaring on the metals was Royal Purple 10w-40 synthetic oil next was Penrite Synthetic 5 5w-60 next was Valvoline Durablend 10w-40
Then the rest was average and all around the same scaring.
Motul Oil (the most expensive oil in test)and Elf came last.
Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 04:49 pm, by: Charlie Ters(Ul05st)
het scott, i hope thats not the '16' oil test that featured in the street commdores recently, apparently that test was so biased, that an apology was given a bit later to the manufacturers and customers..... it apparently didnt test EP additives etc.... (more of a marketing pitch)
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Cheers!
