Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 03:35 pm, by: Tim Hutchings(One_jay_zed)
As the title states, I've put the new turbos on my car, cut no corners, took no shortcuts, finally get my car fired up(and yes I oiled up the turbos first), dirve about 1km down the road and it's heated upto about 2/3. There wasn't a trace of coolant leaking anywhere, the radiator top hose was making a boiling noise and there was a smallamount of steam coming from the exhaust manifold area. Any ideas??
Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 03:55 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Might be a silly question, but...
When you topped up the radiator did you run the engine for a few minutes with the radiator cap off and top it up as coolant was circulated through the block?
When you fill the radiator with the engine cold you can get an air lock in the block. Maybe this has happened to you? (it HAS happened to me!)
Brian Timms Goo Roo New South Wales TT Soarer Goodness.
Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 04:26 pm, by: Brian Timms(Turbo_brian)
you have air-lock, as Ben said, run the engine with the radiator cap off (cold) and top up the fluid.
Also use the Toyota RED fluid, not generic sh1t fluid from Supercheap.
Soemthing else, turn the heater to FULL HOT, nd turn it on when doing the radiator flush, it gets the nasty stale, poor quality, horrible fluid out, and mixing with the other fluid while flushing (there is about 2 liters of this sh1t in the heater duct).
Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 05:34 pm, by: Brian Timms(Turbo_brian)
To flush radiator, take TOP hose off, insert garden hose into radiator (not to far in), remove radiator plug at the bottom, turn garden hose ON and turn engine on.
While engine is running, check that flow of clean clear water goign in is equal to water coming out, and that heater is pumping at full blast HOT.
Sit inside car, and keep an eye on the engine temp, the 2nd it looks like going over normal, shut the engine off!!!
After 10 minutes or so of idling, you will start to feel the temperature of the air-con fan increasing, which means it's opened the heater pipes, and hot water is going through, at this point you know the clean water is going through the heater element and flushing it.
Also at this point, you can leave the cabin and check the bottom drain on the radiator, and once it goes completely clear, no bubbles in the water, and no discolouration, your radiator is compeltely flushed, now shut off the engine, followed by the garden hose, and then recap the radiator when it stops flowing.
Once the radiator is capped, it's time to add coolant, remember there is CLEAN water inside the radiator, so your mixture needs to account for the clean water, if the mixture states 50/50, I usually do 70/30 to cater for the non-mixed water in the engine and heater lines (I dont use pre-mix but this is a personal decision).
Once you have coolant filled up, start the engine and keep watching the open radiator for bubbles, as they come, top up with coolant mixture until it starts to push water out, but then watch for about 30 seconds more to make sure it's not an air bubble.
Also keep the heat on as well, to make sure the clean water in the heater mixes with the coolant mixture properly, otherwise you end up with normal water inside the heater, and normal water corrodes.
Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 07:16 pm, by: Mustafa Akgul(Muzzy)
check the coolant connections at the turbos core.
this happened to me with one of the turbos missing a 10mm nut on one of the connections this was causing it to make bubble type noises and also you could clearly see where it was leaking just look for the coolant colour.
Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 07:26 pm, by: Tim Hutchings(One_jay_zed)
Cheers for that Brian, done and the car is now going fine. Only one problem, I'm missing a pipe from the intake manifold to the intercooler pipeing i've got a temp "A to B" pipe stuck in there, it looks like and leaks air like a bastard so I can't boost, it will do fine to get me to where I need to go tomorrow to pick up some proper piping.