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  Soarer Central * Mechanical - TT * Turbo Talk * No wheelspin * Archive through April 29, 2008 Previous Previous    Next Next  

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Sokoni Forsythe
Newbie
W.I
tt

Posts: 5
Reg: 03-2008

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Thursday, April 24, 2008 - 11:32 pm, by:  Sokoni Forsythe (4ythe) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Previously i had a twin turbo setup, which i could hold brake and gas together and this would cause the car to burnout, this is a matic by the way, now i have a single turbo setup and i havn't been able to do that ever since, i was wondering if it was due to my large backhousing which is .84ar or do i have a malfunctioning wastegate, i have check for boost leak along the hoses but couldn't find any, Is it my wastegate opening prematurely?
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 3352
Reg: 03-2006

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Friday, April 25, 2008 - 01:14 am, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Haha... Man you need to understand what transformation you have undergone!

Single turbo = Lag = no where near the response as the stock twins...

Only way to overcome this is by getting a stall convertor made and installed to suit your new application.
Sokoni Forsythe
Tinkerer
W.I
tt

Posts: 7
Reg: 03-2008

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Friday, April 25, 2008 - 01:48 am, by:  Sokoni Forsythe (4ythe) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That is what i was thinking,i can barely get any tire spin off the line, it feels like i am just rolling off. i was wondering how much difference i would feel if i reduce the back housing to a .63
James Harris
Goo Roo
IRAQ
XTR T-66

Posts: 1390
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, April 25, 2008 - 02:14 am, by:  James Harris (Haro) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yeh you can say good bye to line lock wheel spins much like i have in my setup.

Daniel is right about the stally, a great option and would be money well spent, but they can be expensive.

I have a .82 housing also on my XTR T66 and im planning on reducing it to a .69 when i get home to get more response. I love the kick of the bigger turbo but its not as fun waiting till 4500rpm to get the full grunt of it hahah

You have transformed your car from the traffic light burning torque monster into a freeway loving and rolling start craving boost junkie.
Joe Radisic
DieHard
WA
2JZ GTE 547.7RWHP@21psi 10.8 SEC

Posts: 650
Reg: 10-2006

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Friday, April 25, 2008 - 09:40 am, by:  Joe Radisic (Joe) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Do the stall convertor you won't regret it. I have seen 4000rpm stall with mine using foot and handbrake very hard. And it still cruises like it use to, feels no different.
Sokoni Forsythe
Tinkerer
W.I
tt

Posts: 8
Reg: 03-2008

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Friday, April 25, 2008 - 10:42 am, by:  Sokoni Forsythe (4ythe) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

would love to do the stall convertor but i am wondering if i could get someone to do it locally for me, i live all the way in jamaica so its a problem to ship my torque convertor and to ship it back.
Haydn Crandell
DieHard
NSW
TT 2.5

Posts: 670
Reg: 11-2005

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Friday, April 25, 2008 - 11:29 am, by:  Haydn Crandell (Haydn) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

might save you a few tickets anyway!! lol
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 3354
Reg: 03-2006

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Friday, April 25, 2008 - 03:44 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The 0.6 rear housing wont change response by alot... Just get a convertor...


James Harris wrote on Friday, April 25, 2008 - 02:14 am:

Daniel is right about the stally, a great option and would be money well spent, but they can be expensive.




James, If you can afford to do a single turbo conversion, you should be already factoring in the csot of a stally :-) Othwerwise, why bother... And why waste money on a 0.6 rear housing for? When a stally will cost no more than about $600-$800 installed... Probably the same price as a rea housing, and there is NO way a 0.6 housing will give you off the line stuff... JEFF smith has a 0.6 rear housing and his standing starts still suck at the strip.

Ive seen what a stally and single turbo can do, and all i can say is, dont hesitate fellas!! It will be devastatingly fun for you:-) And like Joe says, Drives no different on the street!
Brad Knudsen
Tinkerer
QLD
TT

Posts: 40
Reg: 10-2005

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Friday, April 25, 2008 - 05:40 pm, by:  Brad Knudsen (Knuddo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Sokoni, What is your waste gate set to (Spring Tension / PSI)?
If the wastegate spring is to soft (ie .4 to .5 BAR then the wastegate will start to open very early indeed (it happen to me). Once we increase the boost level of the wastegate, response improved big time – still not as good as the twins, but a hell of allot better than it was.
However this may not be your problem and as stated above, to take advantage of a big single on a 1J, you will need a nice stally to get straight into that torque zone.
Sokoni Forsythe
Tinkerer
W.I
tt

Posts: 9
Reg: 03-2008

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Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 12:26 am, by:  Sokoni Forsythe (4ythe) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey Brad my wastegate spring is 11 psi, i was thinking of increasing the boost to see how it would respond, i am a bit curious.
James Harris
Goo Roo
IRAQ
XTR T-66

Posts: 1392
Reg: 07-2005

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Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 02:15 am, by:  James Harris (Haro) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Daniel Clarke wrote on Friday, April 25, 2008 - 03:44 pm:

James, If you can afford to do a single turbo conversion, you should be already factoring in the csot of a stally Othwerwise, why bother... And why waste money on a 0.6 rear housing for? When a stally will cost no more than about $600-$800 installed




Hmmm interesting,

So you reckon changin my rear housing wont do much? I wasnt expecting that. I would have thought a smaller housing (in my case) would give me a better reponse.

I like stallys but i thought they would only help when taking off from a stand still, if i planned on ever doing any strip work id slap one in no dramas but its not really my thing.

A new housing for me costs just under 400 from CGC then i have to swap it over and prob get my dump slightly modified to suit new housing (Thanks Lew hehe). I also have some adjustable cam gears also which i wanted to install and then get my Stinger EMS retuned with all that jazz.
What do you think?

*sorry for kinda hijacking your thread Sokoni but its all relevant (i think)
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 3364
Reg: 03-2006

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Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 11:22 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

James, The stally works wonders for full time driving.. It allows the turbo to be on boost at the ready! Also by limiting your rear housing you run into tuning issues and exhaust gas flow issues which might and possibly will hinder peak power figures.
James Harris
Goo Roo
IRAQ
XTR T-66

Posts: 1395
Reg: 07-2005

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Sunday, April 27, 2008 - 05:35 am, by:  James Harris (Haro) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Wow... i never knew that hey. Perhaps i should find myself a single turbo boy who has a stally and check it out for myself.

HELP ANYONE ?

I really only thought the stally would help me off the line in a drag like situation and not have any effect on normal driving, i think i need to do some reading on how stallys work haha
Grant Rowan
TryHard
QLD
jzz30 TR44HF

Posts: 194
Reg: 02-2006

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Sunday, April 27, 2008 - 07:10 am, by:  Grant Rowan (Booster13psi) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yeah I would not mind having a ride in single turbo soarer with a stally too.

Mine has no power up to 60km. And then it goes ballistic and starts wheel spinning. I think I may need an LSD too.

I wonder if with a stally if you can regulate the power off the line to minimise wheel spin?
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 9187
Reg: 11-2004

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Sunday, April 27, 2008 - 04:57 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Higher stall T/C means the engine can rev higher before the T/C "stalls" the engine, thus allowing more power to be developed before the car moves off if you have your foot on the brakes.

So it will probably make more wheelspin on take offs.
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 3368
Reg: 03-2006

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Sunday, April 27, 2008 - 05:20 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thats only if your trying to dial in a lot of boost off the line...

Put it this way.. Have you been in a stock turbo car making good power that could get off the line hard?

Basically you will have a car that is as responsive as that but with your bigger turbo.
Benjamin Burgess
Goo Roo
NSW
Toyota Soarer GT-TL, Toyota Corolla Conquest

Posts: 1826
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, April 28, 2008 - 09:53 am, by:  Benjamin Burgess (Jampac) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If you haven't been in a car that goes hard off the line, I can translate this into numbers. My late soarer with a gt30 turbo, and 3200rpm stallie as well as other supporting mods could do 0-100 in 3.8 seconds. To do that I would have about 18psi of boost loaded up and let it go like a sling shot.

So with the right converter and good stickie tyres, you'll get supercar like 0-100 performance.
James Harris
Goo Roo
IRAQ
XTR T-66

Posts: 1396
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, April 28, 2008 - 08:24 pm, by:  James Harris (Haro) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hmmm this is interesting indeed.

Looks like i may just get myself a stally.

SO pretty much best of both worlds, quick off the line and still a bit of a freeway warrior.

I still think i need to bum a lift in a good single turbo soarer with a stally though.
I plan on upping the boost on my soarer anyways when i get home as i was not really happy with the power considering mods.
238RWKW on 16PSI
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 3377
Reg: 03-2006

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Monday, April 28, 2008 - 08:48 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


James Harris wrote on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 08:24 pm:

SO pretty much best of both worlds, quick off the line and still a bit of a freeway warrior.




Spot on mate. COuldnt be explained any easier than that :-)
Grant Rowan
TryHard
QLD
jzz30 TR44HF

Posts: 198
Reg: 02-2006

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Monday, April 28, 2008 - 08:52 pm, by:  Grant Rowan (Booster13psi) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hmmm sounds tempting
Grant Rowan
TryHard
QLD
jzz30 TR44HF

Posts: 199
Reg: 02-2006

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Monday, April 28, 2008 - 08:54 pm, by:  Grant Rowan (Booster13psi) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Whats the going price on a 3200rpm stally.

I already have a 1.5 stage shift kit from MV auto.
James Harris
Goo Roo
IRAQ
XTR T-66

Posts: 1398
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, April 28, 2008 - 11:22 pm, by:  James Harris (Haro) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

me too...

perhaps some kind of special if we buy 2 hehe

I remember when Ben sold his for 310 a while ago and i REALLY wanted to buy it but being stuck over here changed my mind.
Sokoni Forsythe
Tinkerer
W.I
tt

Posts: 10
Reg: 03-2008

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Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 06:49 am, by:  Sokoni Forsythe (4ythe) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i was wondering maybe i could get a transmission specialist to open the torque convertor and try to modify the stall speed, maybe saving myself some money.
Benjamin Burgess
Goo Roo
NSW
Toyota Soarer GT-TL, Toyota Corolla Conquest

Posts: 1828
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 09:10 am, by:  Benjamin Burgess (Jampac) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Worth a try but might take a few times to get it right. When talking to Mike at MV he wanted to know a lot of info about the response of the engine to figure out the best stall converter for it. I did some logging for him so he had a good idea of the response. In the end, got it right first go.
Maurice Diggler
Goo Roo
Victoria
TR44 HF

Posts: 1828
Reg: 06-2006

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Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 05:49 pm, by:  Maurice Diggler (Mau_rice) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Grant Rowan wrote on Sunday, April 27, 2008 - 07:10 am:

I wonder if with a stally if you can regulate the power off the line to minimise wheel spin?


Let me be the first to say... NO, on street tyres with no LSD you are in for one hell of a time trying to handle it.

I've got brand new 265's with LSD and a 2800rpm stally with all my profile mods and 21psi (you can estimate my power figure) and come 30kph you ice skate up to 100kph and get overtaken by Lancers and other dud cars. I know by raising my stall speed (which I plan to do) will make it better on slicks but even worse on street tyres, that's the tough choice, to run a wicked 1/4 time once or twice with a perfectly set up converter on slicks and then ice skate terribly the rest of the time on the street or leave it as is and settle for whatever 60ft I manage on it.

It's a tough one.

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