Wednesday, July 09, 2008 - 04:36 pm, by: Russell Rohde(Ax0n)
On saturday, I bought myself a couple of brass t-pieces some silicone hose and a TurboMX t-piece style boost controller. Considering it is usually only $5-10 cheaper than the familiar TurboSmart model, it was on sale for under $40 so i just couldn't pass it up. I also purchased a cheap pressure gauge (some sh1tty model) just to give me an idea of where things were being set. I've since repackaged it and returned it to autobarn and got my money back (sneaky little bugger arent I!!)
The setup is as follows....
I removed hoses from both turbos that go from the compressor outputs to wastegates on each turbo. I then ran a silicone hose from compressor output on FRONT TURBO ONLY (approx 1ft of hose) to the input of the boost 'bleed valve' from there, I used about 1inch of silicone hose to a brass t-piece. From there, each hose runs runs IDENTICAL LENGTH (approx 1 ft) to either wastegate. As a temporary measure, I cable tied the bleed valve to the cruise control accelerator cable to keep it clear of things. The rear turbos compressor output was connected to the pressure gauge (which is now just a short length of silicone hose with a bolt in the end to block it off). All hose ends have been tightly cable tied in place and hoses are a nice tight fit.
When I tested initially (no bleed) the gauge read 7-8psi. After setting the bleed valve, it read 12-13psi at full boost (6000+ rpm). After setting and testing for about 45mins, everything was going great. Top-o-the-world. I was a happy chum.
As of yesterday, the PC is saying "Russell, no more fun allowed" and proceeds to cut fuel, boost whatever. So, Is the way I plumbed it all up correct (as taken from the turbosmart manual at AutoBarn) or should I be running a hose from both compressor outputs to a t-piece then into the input of the boost controller? I have closed the boost controller right up so that no air bleeds but it still does it. The fuel cut happens under half throttle at approx 3500-3600rpm.
I'll post back soon, I'm heading out to the garage now to completly bypass the boost controller but still leave the rear compressor output blocked off and see what happens.....brb....
Russell Rohde Tinkerer Queensland Soarer 1JZ 2.5L TT (JZZ30)
Wednesday, July 09, 2008 - 05:04 pm, by: Russell Rohde(Ax0n)
Alright...
It did 'kerb' the problem slightly. It now only cuts out under full throttle at about 4000-4200 rpm. I have to wait for it to cool before I try and remove that rear compressor output hose t-piece it to the front compressor hose then off, through another t-piece to the wastegates. If this works, I'll leave it to test for a week or so before reinstalling the boost bleed valve. It's hard enough cold let alone hot. Not to mention i have a short fuse. I'll just start screaming profanaties and Wifie wont be happy at all....
Russell Rohde Tinkerer Queensland Soarer 1JZ 2.5L TT (JZZ30)
Wednesday, July 09, 2008 - 06:28 pm, by: Russell Rohde(Ax0n)
After letting the car cool, I've set it up (temp) so that both compressor outputs run into a T which feeds to another T then off to both wastegates. I've just done a run for about 30 mins. Taking every exit off the highway and coming back on under full throttle through 1st, 2nd and Drive up to about 160kph. PC wigged out first 3 or 4 full throttle runs but after that, it worked perfectly.
There must be something to do with taking the boost pressure from a single compressor BEFORE the intersection in the pipework where the 2 turbos "become 1"
your boost is spiking to somewhere above 14psi causing the fuel cut.. just get a fuel cut defender (can be made for $5 from parts from jaycar electronics). It will clamp the map sensor voltage and make the computer think its running 13psi or whatever it set at.
Thursday, July 10, 2008 - 07:43 am, by: Luke Burt(Burt)
Russel i just read the following:
"I have closed the boost controller right up so that no air bleeds but it still does it"
If you wind your boost controller all the way down, what it then does it block any air getting to your actuators! Meaning your wastegates won't be opening which would explain boost cut at low rpm's.
When i had my bleed valve setup i had both pressure outlets Tee'd together, and the actuators tee'd for obvious reasons.
Try that just to ensure it's all even, Connect the boost gauge to one of the vacuum lines at your inlet manifold.
Thursday, July 10, 2008 - 10:34 am, by: Chris Prak(Carizma)
Yeah, I don't trust bleed valves anymore. They just aren't stable enough. They always shoot past the desired boost level before coming back (Usually boost cut).
One time after neatening up the boost lines to my bleed valve, I took it for a test drive and boost shot up to 2 bar on my standard twins! As fun as it felt... very hairy moment.
Thursday, July 10, 2008 - 02:23 pm, by: Luke Burt(Burt)
Here is a rough quick paint setup for you of how it should ideally be connected.
As said before, if you wind the controller all the way down it will block any pressure from getting to your actuators, which will stop the wastegate opening which will mean infinite boost (until boost cut)
Your actuators must both be connected at all times, and they MUST be connected together via a T. Of course you don't have to do this, but that ensures the actuators are receiving equal pressure which should mean wastegate operation will be even on both turbos which is how you want it.
Let me know how you go with it. If you keep having problems, hook a boost gauge up in between one of the actuators and the controller itself. That way you can see what pressure the actuators are receiving in realtion to where you adjust the boost controller.
Russell Rohde Tinkerer Queensland Soarer 1JZ 2.5L TT (JZZ30)
Thursday, July 10, 2008 - 04:01 pm, by: Russell Rohde(Ax0n)
Luke: Sorry, my words were backward. I wound it up tight. not up to full bleed. So it should have been acting as if it were not installed. Also, that is how i've ended up plumbing it in. both compressors to a T then to the bleed valve then to another T off to the actuators. I still have the bleed valve set to 0 bleed. will run it like this for a week or so before playing with the bleed valve at all.
btw Luke. Absolutely love the drawing - if only that was in the back of the TurboSmart manual as oppose to their crappy picture!!!
Thursday, July 10, 2008 - 05:36 pm, by: Luke Burt(Burt)
So you wound it up meaining anticlockwise? (just making sure)
Either way it will still slightly restrict pressure to the actuators as most boost controllers have the inlet side wide open and the fitting that goes to the actuators is usually just a pin hole to help restrict pressure getting to the actuators.
But yeah if it's working for you now it shouldnt change, I would still recommend getting a boost gauge so you can see whats happening at all times, so if you start getting spikes again you can iron them out easier.
Haha, what can i say, MS paint brings out the artist in me. It looks like a frowny face if you look at the 'turbos' as eyes.
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