Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 09:12 am, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
Tuned Morgan's car last night.
22psi
20psi
Compressor side has more in it, but there's a consistent drop-off in the topend which leads me to believe there's an exhaust restriction. Even at 15psi, the curve drops off at the exact point irrespective of ignition advance etc. Probably the housing and manifold design or a restrictive cat.
If you compare both graphs, at 190kph they're making exactly the same power.
At 190kph its hitting the rev limiter (7500rpm or so on the emanage interface). AFAIK that's not 1:1 with the driveline so the 3rd gear clutch could be slipping, or the lockup not closing completely.
Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 09:53 am, by: Chris Davey(Chris_davey)
That is what I thought when I first saw the specs of the TR44 HF. The .63 turbine housing looks to be the restriction when you up the boost. My dyno at only 15psi doesn't have that but then again I only have the 57mm compressor.
Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 08:50 pm, by: Chris Davey(Chris_davey)
and boost drops at same time so that is telling me that that is the point that the stock turbine becomes a restriction (unless you have your gain set very low on an EBC)
Sunday, May 11, 2008 - 07:30 am, by: Grant Rowan(Booster13psi)
EMU does the speed cut on mine.
I had mine tuned at Redcliffe Dyno tune. I am only running 17psi at the moment. Its just a safe tune (bit rich) to get me running. I will be poping back for a couple of more hours on the dyno in the next few weeks.
The cam gears still need to be dialed in and the boost upped to about 24psi.
Monday, May 12, 2008 - 01:19 am, by: Charlie Ters(Ul05st)
(as i am running most of the same gear) im actually thinking of changing to a slghtly larger turbo (still T3) and same cooler piping/oil... except for a 3 inch v band (not 2.75) and an actual 4 inch intake inlet.....
Monday, May 12, 2008 - 05:17 am, by: James Harris(Haro)
Hi Daniel,
Yes i suppose you are right mate. I dont really have any reason NOT to increase boost as i have all the bits to do it (EBC, 440s, Fuel Pump, ECU etc)
Only one way to find out though i guess ! heheh MORE BOOOOOOOOST !
Am i correct in my assumption that if you dyno your car in a higher gear you will get a higher power figure? Im not sure what gear they tuned mine in ...
Monday, May 12, 2008 - 09:20 am, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
Thanks Charlie
James, 240kw is normal for 15psi mate - nothing wrong with that at all. We're usually netting 8-11kw per psi of boost so you'll notice the numbers rise very quickly above this point
What you should look for in a tune is drivability, responsiveness and overall performance. Peak figures are important only once its driving like a factory car because thats where you do most of your driving.
RE dyno gears, technically they should show very similar. A lower gear usually nets a higher figure, but it depends on the dyno configuration.
James Harris wrote on Sunday, May 11, 2008 - 09:49 pm:
Hmm 17PSI and you are gettin 285 !
Im gettin jipped, only managed 240 at 15Psi.
I also have adjustable cam gears but not sure if they are worth the effort hey.
Dyno figures between different dynos run by different shops isn't really a good way to compare as they can and usually are calibrated different or out of calibration (they need to be regularly calibrated by a dyno tech).
Having said this, run it down the quarter for an idea of how much power she has. It'll be a good indication of potential problems and overall output.
For me dyno figures and drag figures were pretty close. Approximately 310rwkw in drag form on 24psi and 304rwkw in dyno form at 23psi.
Monday, May 12, 2008 - 03:23 pm, by: James Harris(Haro)
Ahh is see.
Thanks for that info guys i appreciate it.
My car has become a bit of a lag monster now i must say but that doesnt really phase me too much. So do you guys reckon cam gears could help bring on boost a little earlier ?
I guess i have a lot of stuff to figure out before i rock up to a workshop and tell them what i want.
Once i get all that jazz sorted i will definetly take her for a run down the track
Monday, May 12, 2008 - 10:46 pm, by: Chris Davey(Chris_davey)
$440 for a 3000 or $550 for a 3500-4000 from MV Difference between a 13second pass and an 11 second pass if you up the boost to get closer to the 300rwkw mark
Tuesday, May 13, 2008 - 11:51 pm, by: James Harris(Haro)
hahah ok Daniel, you got me.. its not THAT expensive (thanks Chris )
well what is another $1000 thrown into my money pit... ill add to the previous 15 of them since purchase. BAH.
Hopefully my car gets crashed into and i get my fully comp payout of 17K and then my 1st rights to the wreck and then sell bits off it... hmmmm *begins conjuring up a devious plan*
Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 01:54 pm, by: Benjamin Burgess(Jampac)
It took me with the help of george over 2 nights (about 6 hours labour, pull off and put new one on) from memory. It's a tough job, especially the damn bolts at the top. The stall convertor is tricky, but once you work a method out (take off the starter motor) it's fairly easy. It's also heavy, so you need two people, one to jack and one to help position it.