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  Soarer Central * Mechanical - TT * Turbo Talk * Removing the turbos from a 1J - any how-to's or special tools needed? * Archive through April 18, 2007 Previous Previous    Next Next  

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Paul McConnell
Tinkerer
QLD
TT

Posts: 24
Reg: 01-2007

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Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 12:04 pm, by:  Paul McConnell (Pt1) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I might have to pull the turbos off my 1J, which I'm not particularly looking forward to.

Any tips, how to's, special tools needed (there seems to be some star shaped nuts/bolts) or general order to go in/areas to attack/things to watch out for....?

Can you just take the rear one off while leaving the front turbo in place?
Trevor Tai
TryHard
NSW
Soarer TT GT-TL

Posts: 162
Reg: 07-2005

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Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 01:07 pm, by:  Trevor Tai (Quiksilva) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

haven't done it myself, but here is an article that has been circulating around since the old forums. Have fun!

http://www.thepointnet.com/Lenticular/Turbo/
Robert Jeffs
TryHard
nsw
Soarer TT

Posts: 105
Reg: 07-2005

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Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 01:46 pm, by:  Robert Jeffs (Robert) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Say goodbye to the skin on you knuckles.
Nathan Evans
DieHard
Queensland
1JZZ30 TT

Posts: 846
Reg: 07-2005

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Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 03:17 pm, by:  Nathan Evans (Soarer7) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If you dont understand that article posted, all you have to do is work your way from the top down, ive done a turbo on an RB20 off an R32 skyline so it might not be very different. Just dont lose anything.
Paul McConnell
Tinkerer
QLD
TT

Posts: 25
Reg: 01-2007

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Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 03:56 pm, by:  Paul McConnell (Pt1) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

PFFFFFFFT a skyline turbo is easy. This thing is a whole other kettle of fish.

Robert - have bought mechanic gloves. Looks like they are going to pay off :-)
Robert Jeffs
TryHard
nsw
Soarer TT

Posts: 106
Reg: 07-2005

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Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 04:07 pm, by:  Robert Jeffs (Robert) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

One other thing that will help you out is make sure the spanners and sockets you have are of high quality. Some of the nuts and bolts are going to be extremely tight.
Ben Lipman
TryHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 409
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 07:19 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I did it ages ago. I just looked at them and did it step by step, labelling and taking notes and pictures as I went. I laid everything out on a bench as it came off.

Sorry I don't have a step by step guide. When I did it I was the only person I knew with a TT and did not know about this site. I managed it OK. I took the front and rear off to fit dumps. I don't think you could do the rear only. It would be a nightmare job if it is possible. The rear turbo was hard enough to get off with the front gone as it was.
Ben Daniel
DieHard
WA
Twin Turbo

Posts: 968
Reg: 03-2006

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Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 07:30 pm, by:  Ben Daniel (Lexustt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Paul. Have done a couple of turbo's on a 1JZ myself and have to say that guide linked above I thought was a lot harder than the way I did mine. Taking the whole manifold off the engine is a pain in itself than leaving the 2 turbo's and standard dump as 1 unit. My advice is to take all the piping off then detach the down pipe from the mid pipe so you can take the whole cast dump item off and so the down pipe doesn't get in your way. The take off the first turbo. Afterwards unscrew the dump from the rear turbo... 1 of the nuts (bottom side closest to the block) is near impossible to get to with a standard spanner, so go out and buy a cheapie and put a 45 degree bend in it at the head of the spanner which will allow you to then get it on the nut and twist it. Once thats off remove the rear turbo off the manifold then its basically everything back in reverse. Make sure you have a can or 2 of WD-40 as your going to use a lot of it and make sure you have a high tolerance to pain as yes.... you are going to skin your knuckles. Try to get someone to help you cause extra hands makes some things easy.
If I were you i'd also look at getting a set of aftermarket dumps while your in the process of changing the turbo's, would save you in the long run as its not an easy job :-)
Daniel Czechowski
Goo Roo
Western Australia
Soarer GT-T

Posts: 2341
Reg: 07-2005

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Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 08:13 pm, by:  Daniel Czechowski (Dan) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yeah, what Ben said

I looked at the guide when me and Ben were doing my turbos, and really the way that guide says to do it would be too damn hard! Just take the turbos off one by one, front first, then the back one.

Just so you know, each turbo is attached to the engine block via:
the manifold,
a bracket underneath,
oil supply line underneath,
oil return line underneath,
water lines;
and then the Y piece dump pipe

Expect for it to take well over 10 or 15 hours mate. WD40, patience, swearing dictionary, and reasonable pain tolerance are gonna get you through this no problem As far as special tools go, only that one bent spanner really, the rest will require some imagination (ie. spanner on bolt, big rod, bang the rod with a hammer and the bolt should let go; sometimes you had to sit under the car to get to it). Axle stands are a must. If you could get access to an air compressor tools it would make the job a lot easier and faster. We had no compressor, some bolts took us 20 minutes just to loosen up by hand, no sh|t!

I'll post some pics I took at various stages for you, a bit later tonight.
Daniel Czechowski
Goo Roo
Western Australia
Soarer GT-T

Posts: 2342
Reg: 07-2005

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Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 08:26 pm, by:  Daniel Czechowski (Dan) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

So yeah, order of things, airbox out (gives you space), all the intake piping coming off. I suppose you can use that guide's steps in the beginning for that. I suggest you drain your oil and water from your radiator too. If you don't, water will spill all over your alternator when you undo the water lines hehe. ALso, put some cloth into the intercooler piping (near the airbox) to block any nasties coming in through it.

Oh and areas to watch out for I guess is when you put it back together, spray some compressed air (we used one in a can) through the oil and water lines to clean them out. Make sure the oil supply line is fitted to the block properly with two gaskets on each side. It uses a banjo (spelling?) nut. If you don't fit it properly oil WILL leak out of it and not supply the turbos with correct pressure. I heard of some people stuffing that part up and ruining their turbos. Also, make sure you don;t cross thread the studs when putting them back together.

Oh, and most importantly, YOU DO NOT WANT TO RUIN THE BOLTS!! I suggest you soak up each and every nut and bolt with WD40 first, especially on the exhaust side (the intake bolts are not as bad coz they don't get that hot, some I didn't even bother) leave it for some time, spray some more before you attempt to undo it. I've been lucky that none of mine got ruined. Some spots it would have been impossible to grind them out, so yeah, WD40 is your friend!!!
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 1342
Reg: 03-2006

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Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 08:39 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

May i suggest not placing Rags into pipes :-)

A pair of Old Socks works well:-) Placed over the pipe with a nice rubber band:-)
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 1343
Reg: 03-2006

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Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 08:42 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Upon start up. Remove the Igniter plug. Remove the Fule ECu plug or Fuse for Fuel Pump/relay.

Dont forget to put some oil into the oil holes in the turbo and spin them by hand before placing them on.

Crank engine over for at least 30 seconds to try and pump oil into Turbos.

IF YOU Start the engine STRAIGHT AWAY without oiling up the turbos, You run the risk of killing the bearings and the turbos in less than 1000kms!

Friendly advice from a friend whom does all this for a living:-)
James Johnson
DieHard
Victoria
JZZ30

Posts: 580
Reg: 07-2005

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Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 09:03 pm, by:  James Johnson (Jamesy) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

take the both turbos and the cast dump off in one piece!!

#take off the brackets under each turbo
#undo the oil lines and water lines
#undo the 6 bolts (3 on each turbo) holding the turbos onto the cast manifolds.
#lift out and remove in one big piece!!

all the bolts are easy to get to and no skinning your knuckles on the bolts on the cast dump.

makes the job easy. should be able to remove and replace everything in a good working day!

after the turbos have been taken out you can see the oil line connections still sitting there and the cast manifolds still on the engine.

Upload
Paul McConnell
Tinkerer
QLD
TT

Posts: 26
Reg: 01-2007

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Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 10:09 pm, by:  Paul McConnell (Pt1) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

James that looks like it might be the way to go.

Thanks for all the info guys.

I just managed to get the rear turbo's oil hardlines off, with turbos still in place. What a pain!

These mechanic gloves are great. used them today. Not as much feel, but protection and more grip on some bolts to undo with fingers. Tops.
Shaun Stephenson
TryHard
Vic
Jzz30 TT & ST162

Posts: 287
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, February 19, 2007 - 09:25 am, by:  Shaun Stephenson (Neonasty) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

What about removing the engine with the turbos still attached?

I think when I eventually come to replace my turbos and fit the dumps I will pull the whole engine and do water pump etc at the same time.
Braden Murdoch
TryHard
NSW
Cressida 1JZ TT

Posts: 307
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, February 19, 2007 - 02:56 pm, by:  Braden Murdoch (Ribfeast) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Pull the engine if you have that option, then you can take the turbos off in an hour and a half.

A mechanic mate and myself did the turbos on my car at home here, put some eBay steelies on. Took around 8 hours all up for the swap, including breaks etc. Soak the bolts with Wurth Rost-off, it is very good at loosening up the rusty bolts, a lot more effective than WD-40. Hard to come by though.
Brendan Hax
TryHard
QLD
JZX90 Chaser Tourer-V

Posts: 127
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, February 19, 2007 - 03:21 pm, by:  Brendan Hax (Chaser_94) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Patience is handy as well :-)
Brian Timms
TryHard
New South Wales
TT Soarer Goodness.

Posts: 112
Reg: 12-2006

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Monday, February 19, 2007 - 05:36 pm, by:  Brian Timms (Turbo_brian) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Exactly Brendan....

I worked on an S13 nissan, swapping the T25G turbo for a T28 Ball Bearing, and I tell you what patience had to be your best friend.

50% of the exhaust stud snapped, the others bent or otherwise ended up being replaced anyway, mounting the turbo at least 5 times to back sure the bearings are straight (being gravity fed, not being straight starves the bearings of much needed lubricant).

if your one that isn't very patient, then sit back on a deck chair and let your friends into it which you drink, the comedy factor will keep you amused, but the friends will hopefully have the patience for the car.

Already I have had the power steering off on my car because of a pipe leak, and had to do it in the carpark of the Mascot Pirtek branch, because they are not qualified mechanics, and thus wont touch the car.

If I didn't have patience (and a massive breaker bar) I would have lost the bet they all had going, and got the car towed away, as it was, I was 10:1 odds on failing, so I put $50 on me succeeding, and it paid for 70% of my bill.

And if your taking the turbos off, change what ever gaskets you can, and also go for the aftermarket dump pipe as well, why not when you have already done the work to get there....

B.
Danny Dinh
TryHard
Victoria
GT T

Posts: 241
Reg: 11-2005

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Monday, February 19, 2007 - 10:17 pm, by:  Danny Dinh (Xtc) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

lots and lots of WD40.
Half moon spanners will help a lot.
Paul McConnell
Tinkerer
QLD
TT

Posts: 46
Reg: 01-2007

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Tuesday, April 17, 2007 - 08:27 am, by:  Paul McConnell (Pt1) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Done. Its not that hard, just a pain in the arse. Getting the water lines off was the worst bit. Had them off in 6hrs, and forgot to soak them in RP7 first so just gave them a hit and let it sit for 30sec. Glad ive been working out, was fun cracking those manifold/turbo underside nuts......

Still got all the skin on my knuckles too!

Did it the way James recommended.
Dennis Weglehner
TryHard
QLD
R31 Skyline with 2JZGTE and A340E

Posts: 115
Reg: 08-2006

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Tuesday, April 17, 2007 - 10:52 am, by:  Dennis Weglehner (2jzr31) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nice work. Prick of a job eh?
Blake Gloyn
Tinkerer
manawatu
soarer JZZ30 TT

Posts: 67
Reg: 02-2006

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Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 07:41 am, by:  Blake Gloyn (Blakenz) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

my mechanics can get the motor out just as quick as taking the turbos off! turbos are straight forward when motor is out,so much room to get at those nasty nasty nasty studs and bolts.
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 1724
Reg: 03-2006

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Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 10:46 am, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have just spent the last couple of days removing and refitting my turbos! As im installing a set of UAS DUmps ( Finally :-) ).

The only problem im waiting on now, is the PVC pipe that goes from the rocker cover to the Turbo pipework, and the Front turbo Oil Drain Pipe ( was split ! lucky i spotted that one).

I didnt remove the water lines, as im not changing turbos. Which made it easier. I did remove both turbos from the manifolds ( only 6 bolts). I had it all apart by 11.30 yesterday.

Although, The night before, i removed the Front turbo pipework, and removed the Heat shield and SOaked EVERYTHING in WD40 the night before ( as Lew mentioned to me months ago). Then gave another liberal dosage in the morning and started working on it about 6.30 am yesterday!

At the moment, Turbos and Dumps are installed, just waiting on 2 new hoses to replace and them bolt up all the front ppework in hoses, Check oil, Fill coolant, disconnect igniter and turn over to re oil turbos, and then go:-)

Will keep this updated:-)
Dennis Weglehner
TryHard
QLD
R31 Skyline with 2JZGTE and A340E

Posts: 117
Reg: 08-2006

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Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 10:59 am, by:  Dennis Weglehner (2jzr31) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My brother just removed the Y pipe when he fitted his dumps. He said it was piss easy and only took a couple of hours.
Paul McConnell
Tinkerer
QLD
TT

Posts: 49
Reg: 01-2007

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Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 03:46 pm, by:  Paul McConnell (Pt1) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

how did he get the studs out dennis? (ps its slip)

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