Soarer Central: Refitting rebuilt turbos, need advice.

Soarer Central Mechanical - TT Turbo Talk Refitting rebuilt turbos, need advice.

Previous Next

Author

Message

Jason French
Tinkerer
QLD
Manual JZZ30 TT

Posts: 40
Reg: 06-2007

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Tuesday, October 14, 2008 - 12:35 pm, by: Jason French (Frenchy)

I have finally got my hands on some Steel wheel Highfowed stock turbos from GCG. I have done a few search's of the site and seem to have a pretty good idea of what I need to do and what I'm in for.

I have the following items for the job:

*New oil filter and new oil x2
*Turbo Gasket kit, just in case
*Quality spanners and sockets
*WD40 to soak nuts, what about freeze & release ?
*Some new dump pipes
*swearing dictionary,swearing bottle

*Toyota Long Life coolant concentrate
*chemical flush

Once I get the old turbos out and go to fit the new ones, is there any bolts/pipes/ and so on that I should think of replacing given that the cars 16 years old now ?
I have also read that some members give there radiator a chemical flush which makes sense (should i do this before or after putting the new turbos on ?). So I'll do that as well and put in some Toyota Long Life coolant. Should i replace the Thermostat ?
Any advice and hints n tips would be most appreciated

Cheers

Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 4017
Reg: 03-2006

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Tuesday, October 14, 2008 - 07:16 pm, by: Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain)

Replace the thermostat as its easier to remove that when trying to undo the front turbo oil supply/drain from the turbo

Just take your time, its not as bad as people make out.

Before fitting turbos, Just put a little bit of oil in the bearing and turn by hand, this helps them dry starting which some builders reckon reduces the turbo life

Barry Main
Tinkerer
Victoria
TT Manual

Posts: 38
Reg: 05-2008

Rating:
Votes: 1 (Vote!)

Tuesday, October 14, 2008 - 10:27 pm, by: Barry Main (Barry_m)

Pre oiling the bearings is good advice, but you need to go further.

1 You need to replace the oil feed lines. Why? Well, oil operates best at 90 degrees; that's why it lasts so long on non-turbo cars. But a turbo at full noise is generating more than 1,000 degrees. This kills the oil just like overheating oil in a frying pan and when you do that, what do you get? --a sticky residue on the bottom of the pan that even with good access is impossible to get off. As that sticky residue attaches to the oil feed line it goes around the whole 360 degrees and in a remarkably short time has reduced the i.d. by a big margin. It's the 360 degrees that's the killer. On a flat surface you probably wouldn't be able to measure the difference from one week to the next, but around a circle..? Think about it. And also think about why you need to use really good oil and change it and the filter every 5,000 km. NEVER SKIMP ON CLEAN OIL IN A TURBOCHARGED CAR. (Sorry, didn't mean to shout).

2 Prior to starting the engine for the first time, disconnect the ignition and turn the engine over until the oil light goes out. Keep turning for 20 seconds. Then do it again. And then again. ONLY WHEN YOU'RE SURE YOU'VE GOT OIL TO EVERY PART OF THE ENGINE SHOULD YOU FIRE IT UP. (Sorry, there I go shouting again).

3 Always warm up your car or at least drive it gently until your oil is up to normal operating temp. Think about this: If you boot it up the nearest hill as soon as you pull out of the drive, your oil is at 25 degrees (or therabouts)and your turbo is at 1,000 degrees!!

While you've got the turbos off the car, it's a good idea to get a die grinder and enlarge and match up all the inlet and exhaust ports.

Good luck .. keep us posted.

Charlie Ters
TryHard
nsw
'Single' biggest mistake :-)

Posts: 414
Reg: 01-2007

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Tuesday, October 14, 2008 - 11:12 pm, by: Charlie Ters (Ul05st)

Jason French wrote on Tuesday, October 14, 2008 - 12:35 pm:
WD40 to soak nuts, what about freeze & release

WD40 is best with a straw.....
forget about the freeze and release, when i did mine, i ended upwasting the stuff freezing a spanner as it did f**k all for the bolts....

Jason French wrote on Tuesday, October 14, 2008 - 12:35 pm:
Turbo Gasket kit,

as long as you use the genuiene toyota manilfold and turbo gaskets...the other stuff will just burn out.... ask Morgan (aka.Maurice)(i think his were quick to burnout)

MY LAST 2 CENTS

1x 45 degree bent 10mm spanner (closer to closed side)

1x 45 degree bent 12mm spanner (closer to closed side)

-1/2 inch not 3/8 inch socket set, with a 50>90 cm breaker bar

1x a helping hand to align the socket/breaker bar when your under the car getting the bottom manifold bolts

have fun

James Harris
Goo Roo
QLD
XTR T-66 Turbo

Posts: 2085
Reg: 07-2005

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Tuesday, October 14, 2008 - 11:26 pm, by: James Harris (Haro)

Another great post by Mr Main !

Also charlie is spot on about the "modified tools"

these turbos will be awesome on your manual hey. Keep us posted

Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 10112
Reg: 11-2004

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 04:05 am, by: Peter Nitschke (Pen)

Great post indeed, made me want to run out and change my oil lines right away.

Then I remembered I don't have turbos

Jason French
Tinkerer
QLD
Manual JZZ30 TT

Posts: 42
Reg: 06-2007

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 12:28 pm, by: Jason French (Frenchy)

Thanks for all the good advice guys.

So I'm guessing that I order the oil feed lines from Toyota, dos anyone know the part numbers for:

oil feed lines and seals ?
Thermostat and seal ?

I will defiantly oil up each turbo before putting on and turn the engine over with out the ignition on to get the oil circulated. Very good advice

Once I get the extra parts I need I will start the operation on my holidays that are coming up in a few weeks, gives me plenty of time to do the job right. Will keep you all posted on how it go's

Barry Main
Tinkerer
Victoria
TT Manual

Posts: 39
Reg: 05-2008

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 01:44 pm, by: Barry Main (Barry_m)

Charlie, that is great advice.

Peter? Love it.

Jason, can you take some pics as you do this job and put them up, especially if you get the die grinder on the job.

Somewhere around there is a tutorial on removing and replacing the turbos. From memory, it is somewhere in this forum, but I think it originated in England (where Soarers are very popular).

If I can find it in my stuff, I'll let you know but maybe you could also write a tutorial for general distribution at Soarer Central.

One other really important thing for you to consider is that your highflowed turbos will almost certainly make more boost - probably enough to trip the overboost fuel cutout. You will need either to install a fuel defence cutout or override the relay which is located behind the trim in the rear of the car. You have to remove the seat and it's behind the left-hand passenger's elbow rest. You just bridge it with a piece of wire.

Unless someone has got some better advice I think I'm right in saying that although you will get more boost with your hi-flows, it won't be enough to do any damage and you'd be safe in bypassing the fuel cutout. How much extra? Don't really know, but I'm guessing it would be less than an extra 4-5 psi and the engine (and you new turbos) will certainly handle that. To some extent it depends on other mods such as fmic, freeing up the intake side, matching the inlet and exhaust flanges, etc. There are threads here on overboost and how to deal with it.

One other thing. If your new turbos don't come with their own front covers (the snail), you will need to have your old ones machined internally to the profile of the oversize compressor wheels. The shape of the inside of the front cover and the gap between it and the compressor is critical to the efficiency of the turbo. Feel free to ring me - 0402 117 500 - if this doesn't make sense or if you can't find anyone to do the machining. If the turbos are complete with front covers, then there is no issue as GCG do really nice work.

James Harris
Goo Roo
QLD
XTR T-66 Turbo

Posts: 2087
Reg: 07-2005

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 03:59 pm, by: James Harris (Haro)

16331A THERMOSTAT
90916-03092 1JZGTE..JZZ30;

Dont know about the seal though... Don ? Perhaps i have a NEW thermostat housing and perhaps that has a seal in it if you are interested.

As for the oil feed lines... i reckon they will be pretty hexy from Toyota.

Im sure DON will come along soon with some part numbers and lovely pics for you to ponder over.

Charlie Ters
TryHard
nsw
'Single' biggest mistake :-)

Posts: 416
Reg: 01-2007

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 05:55 pm, by: Charlie Ters (Ul05st)

Barry Main wrote on Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 01:44 pm:
Somewhere around there is a tutorial on removing and replacing the turbos. From memory, it is somewhere in this forum, but I think it originated in England (where Soarers are very popular).

i think it is this....
http://www.thepointnet.com/Lenticular/Turbo/

i never let one good page go un-favourited... hence is why my list is over 150 long :-)

Danny Dinh
TryHard
Victoria
GT T

Posts: 380
Reg: 11-2005

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 06:40 pm, by: Danny Dinh (Xtc)

Front covers should come with the hi-flowed turbos. It would make too much a hassle to have the turbo's hi-flowed at one place and the housings at the other.
I doubt Mr.Toyota would have oil feed line in stock. If they don't, just soak them with carby cleaner and get a blow gun and blow as much as stuff out as you can, you can feel the air flow on the other side and you should get an idea whether it's blocked or not.
Put a long vac hose on the rear turbo compressor for easy access when installing a boost controller later.

Get yourself the halfmoon spanner set, they are awsome. Make sure you get the good ones though.

Jason French
Tinkerer
QLD
Manual JZZ30 TT

Posts: 43
Reg: 06-2007

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 02:43 am, by: Jason French (Frenchy)

Yeah Barry I'm going to take pics from start to finish, so I guess I can put them up on the site and do a how to. I also have a air compressor and can borrow a die grinder to enlarge and match up all the inlet and exhaust ports but having not done it before I'm not sure how I'll go.

I will also be fitting a dual boost controller and already have a HKS-FCD so that side of things should be ok. Sounds like I will be cleaning my oil lines with carby cleaner as well

Barry Main
Tinkerer
Victoria
TT Manual

Posts: 40
Reg: 05-2008

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 09:38 am, by: Barry Main (Barry_m)

I think carby cleaner would probably do the job but be prepared to use plenty of it and do it several times. It is very critical to the continued health of your turbos, especially as the upgrade suggests that you are going to be driving your car a bit harder.

When you've got it all apart, the areas to be ground will present themselves so you won't have any problem working out where to take metal. Before you start, find a tool shop and buy a couple of different shaped bits. You'll need eye and ear protection - as well as lots of patience. But it'll be worth it.

Best of luck.

Don Bagnall
Moderator
New Zealand
Mercedes Benz SLK230 Kompressor

Posts: 7130
Reg: 05-2005

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 03:33 pm, by: Don Bagnall (Baggs)

Don Bagnall
Moderator
New Zealand
Mercedes Benz SLK230 Kompressor

Posts: 7131
Reg: 05-2005

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 03:34 pm, by: Don Bagnall (Baggs)

Danny Dinh
TryHard
Victoria
GT T

Posts: 382
Reg: 11-2005

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 07:11 pm, by: Danny Dinh (Xtc)

Another great help from Don.

Jason French
Tinkerer
QLD
Manual JZZ30 TT

Posts: 46
Reg: 06-2007

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 07:22 pm, by: Jason French (Frenchy)

Thanks Don

Barry Main
Tinkerer
Victoria
TT Manual

Posts: 41
Reg: 05-2008

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 02:40 pm, by: Barry Main (Barry_m)

Don, my man, you are awesome! Awesome. You clearly have encyclopaedic knowledge of the Soarer and give your assistance willingly, freely and frequently.

In fact, all the moderators and many other regular members make membership of Soarer Central a real pleasure with your generous and knowledgeable help.

Braden Murdoch
DieHard
NSW
Cressida 1JZ TT

Posts: 874
Reg: 04-2006

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Thursday, October 23, 2008 - 11:05 am, by: Braden Murdoch (Ribfeast)

May help to replace all the rubber oil and coolant related hoses in the region, mine were so brittle from the heat that they shattered into pieces when I was removing my old turbos.

Jason French
Tinkerer
QLD
Manual JZZ30 TT

Posts: 47
Reg: 06-2007

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Thursday, October 23, 2008 - 12:51 pm, by: Jason French (Frenchy)

How many rubber/oil coolant hoses did you replace Braden ? do you still have the part numbers for them ? Cheers

Don Bagnall
Moderator
New Zealand
Mercedes Benz SLK230 Kompressor

Posts: 7144
Reg: 05-2005

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Thursday, October 23, 2008 - 06:14 pm, by: Don Bagnall (Baggs)

Barry Main wrote on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 02:40 pm:
Don, my man, you are awesome! Awesome. You clearly have encyclopaedic knowledge of the Soarer and give your assistance willingly, freely and frequently.

In fact, all the moderators and many other regular members make membership of Soarer Central a real pleasure with your generous and knowledgeable help.

Thanks Barry, and the rest of you fellers.

Between Pen & meself (along with a heap of others!), we try to help as much as possible