Thursday, December 25, 2008 - 09:06 am, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
just realised theres a diagnostic port under the drivers side dash. Is it possible to use a scantool to read out of this? We have a $14,000 carman scantool at work, just wondering if it would be able to interface with the port? Or is it a toyota specific scantool port? Thanks
Friday, December 26, 2008 - 12:55 pm, by: Barry Main(Barry_m)
I have a friend who is a really switched on mechanic: builds about 20 race engines a year, writes new chips for factory ecu's, has worked for Perkins, Richards, etc, and he uses the Snap-On scanner and swears by it.
That said, I'd be reasonably sure your work unit will interface with your Soarer ok.
Let us know.
Scott Wilkes TryHard Tasmania 92 TT Factory Manual
Friday, December 26, 2008 - 02:34 pm, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
will do mate, i just put it on the hoist and removed the clutch in it today, so when i put the new clutch in monday (getting flywheel machined) and get it going il see if i can get it to interface with it. What system does the soarer run on? As i thought scantools basically only read OBD2.
Friday, December 26, 2008 - 11:16 pm, by: Barry Main(Barry_m)
Sorry Scott, I may have given you some bad advice. I wasn't aware that the scantools unit only read OBD2 - just thought that if it cost so much it ought to be able to do a lot.
Don't want to hijack your diagnostic thread but I wonder if you found any real problem in removing the clutch. I have to do mine in the next week or so, and am just waiting for the parts to arrive. I've read on the forum that the bolts on top of the bell housing are almost impossible to get to and that some guys have gone to the trouble of letting the engine hang slightly on the engine mounts. Can it be that bad?
I have a hoist in my workshop - perhaps the guys who've had trouble have been working under stands or something like that.
Also waiting for a gear box overhaul kit to arrive from Driftmotion in the States. Just in case you aren't aware of this, it is supposed to contain all synchros, bearings and seals for an R154 and as my 'box is notchy in second and third, I figured clutch time was also gonna be gear box time.
One other thing I have noticed as I've been researching the gearbox on this and other forums, apparently one of the biggest problems with the R154 is also one of the easiest and cheapest to fix - namely replacing a $20 thrust washer. So while you've got yours out, maybe it might be worth at least throwing a new thrust washer in it.
Scott Wilkes TryHard Tasmania 92 TT Factory Manual
Saturday, December 27, 2008 - 08:23 am, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
hey mate, no problems, there were a few things that got me, namely the sensor going into the cat the bolts had seized, so i had to bend the heat plate a little to get to the centre drive shaft bearing bolts.
Then unbolt the rear driveshaft from the rubber dampener, and just slide it back, the shaft will support its self on the exhaust.
The bellhousing bolts were quite easy, i used a long extension, about 4 foot. With a universal and a 17mm socket, had the bellhousing bolts out in 10 minutes with a rattle gun. Just supported the tranny with a transmission stand and dropped it slightly, so i could get the socket up there at the right angle on the bolt
I thought about opening up the tranny. But i bought the car with 60,000 on it and the tranny is nice and smooth, nothing but the normal R154 traits. It now has just hit the 70,000 mark. Its been driven by a old lady 90% of its life so its never been abused.
Lastly with the fork and clutch. I had a hard time figuring how to release it, as on rodeos etc you lever on the bearing and it releases the whole bearing. With the soarer its basically clipped on on the pivot, so all you do is remove the slave and pull on the fork, it should just pull straight out with a little effort.
Also with the clutch, use the vents in the bellhousing to remove the flywheel bolts progressivly, the transmission is a tight fit in there and you cant get the tranny input shaft out of the release bearing as the starter motor moulding on the tranny hits on the chassis, making it near impossible to remove. SO undo the clutch plate bolts while the tranny is still bolted and slide it back onto the tranny input shaft, that way you will be able to just slide the tranny back and drop it straight down
Its also agood time to get the flywheel skimmed, replace the spigot bearing and the rear main seal. By the looks of it my sump is leaking ever so slightly at the rear, but that will be a job for later as it involves dropping the whole front sub frame assembly il patch it up temporarily, but yeah. haha
Regarding the scantools, i thought all only read OBD2? I am probably wrong. Either way il give it a try when i get the car back on the ground. Does anyone know what system the soarer runs on?
Also use this technique of sliding the clutch onto the input shaft, get the tranny bolted up then bolt the pressure plate and disk to the flywheel through the bellhousing bolts holes. Make sure to tighten it evenly on all bolts progressivly, other wise it can bend the disphram which will give crappy clutching or shuddering when putting it back together. I managed to get the tranny out in 1.5 hours, if i had known a few of the things i could of got it done in about an hour.
Hope that helps mate, if you need any more questions answered feel free to ask. BTW what clutch did you get?
Saturday, December 27, 2008 - 10:48 pm, by: Barry Main(Barry_m)
That is great, Scott - thanks. Just using a standard clutch as my car is standard (although the very next job is to fit steelies and hiflow the turbos - but any increase in hp shouldn't trouble the clutch which, from stuff I've read here, should be able to cope with a reasonable increase in power). Also, I like the feel of the standard-type clutch in Melbourne traffic. And lastly, I don't hammer my car off the line, which is the greatest killer of clutches.
I will definitely do the spigot bearing. And the rear main too unless it's bone dry.
I've got a guy quite nearby who does heaps of machining of flywheels for Japanese cars - already got him lined up.
Sounds like I should buy or borrow a tranny stand.
Cheers and thanks again.
Scott Wilkes TryHard Tasmania 92 TT Factory Manual
Saturday, December 27, 2008 - 11:12 pm, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
it makes it alot easier mate. saves having 2 or 3 people crowding around trying to support and remove the tranny, just support the tranny, remove bolts, lower down and walla, you have done it without breaking a sweat HAHA.
Ive taken some pictures of the transmission removed and various things. If you want them PM me and il send them to you so you can get a look before you put it up.
Previous
with a rattle gun. Just supported the tranny with a transmission stand and dropped it slightly, so i could get the socket up there at the right angle on the bolt 
il patch it up temporarily, but yeah. haha 
