Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 02:37 pm, by: Luke Streat(Streatracer)
Yesterday I plumbed in a boost tee and cranked it up. Car pulled REALLY hard then in 3rd gear lost power and blew white smoke out exhaust. When I pulled over every rev blew more white smoke but then after a minute the smoke stopped? driving home the car idled really rough but didnt blow smoke and could still boost without bad noises etc, however power was well down. Now car idles really rough. Have I blown a turbo?
Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 02:58 pm, by: Luke Streat(Streatracer)
I dont have a boost guage so unsure of boost level. I dont have an FCD so I planned on winding boost up till I hit boost cut then wind it back a bit. It never hit boost cut so I assume less than 1 bar?
Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 03:39 pm, by: Cameron Laufer(Ivboost)
Start the car open the oil filler cap, how much blow by do you have? a healthy 1jz at idle will have next to nothing. Also when the motor is cold open the radiator cap, start the car and check if it is blowing bubbles? I think you may have blown turbo seals on the exhaust side and more
Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 03:47 pm, by: Luke Streat(Streatracer)
Cameron Laufer wrote on Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 03:39 pm:
how much blow by do you have?
Lots.
Daniel Clarke wrote on Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 02:50 pm:
Possibly blown a headgasket?
Looking most likely
Options? (Car has almost 300ks on it so is old) 1.New gasket+Labour(I don't have time/facilities to do work myself) 2.New engine 3.New car (part out current car)
Which of these options will work out best financially?
Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 07:18 pm, by: Michael Keen(Spoilt)
rebuild it mate, dont bother with second hand you just dont know what it is like inside.. a basic rebuild wont cost to much just do rings bearings and gaskets and pistons, and the head.. and new water pump etc etc
then you know you engine is new.. perfect..
you can usually get a second hand engine from about 1500-2000
a rebuild will cost you 3-4000 but you know it is right...you come over here and i will help you pull it out, and rebuild it. i got a 1j on the stand now hehehe doing rebuild.
Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 10:26 pm, by: Cameron Laufer(Ivboost)
If you are to rebuild your motor, you will be looking at $$$. Be prepared to spend $2000+ on the head. The valves, guides and springs are going to need replacing and maybe cams. The cam caps may be worn and then dump the whole head.
Block will need to be bored, honed & decked. Crank will need a grind, Plus Pistons, Rings, Bearings, head bolts and gaskets. Then add that to the head cost you won't have change out of $5000, thats if you can assemble it your self.
Buy a low Km import engine and tranny if it has not yet been replaced, find a clean looking motor to start with with no mods and a factory air cleaner hooked up, check to see if the oil is cleanish in the engine, make sure there is no signs of moisture under the oil cap or signs of oil in the water galleries, get them to start it, get a compression test performed on it while you watch, it should be 180psi or more, and find some one to perform a leakdown test on it also, you don't want anymore then 5% drop.
Monday, December 29, 2008 - 06:10 am, by: Michael Keen(Spoilt)
then once that all done and you spent all the money doing that, it still might be and they might have never looked after it. i just not a fan of import engine's ya just dont know how long they been sitting for. if you gonna do it do it right the first time, i suppose it al depends how long you going to keep the car for.
and it aint that much to machine a block.. $300 it cost me last time, and that was skim deck, 40 tho over and acid bath. and new welsh plugs..
Monday, December 29, 2008 - 06:50 pm, by: Luke Streat(Streatracer)
Daniel Clarke wrote on Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 04:24 pm:
Get yourself a lowish km motor from a wrecker or see if anyone in the LCub has a decent motor for sale... Drop it in and start again
Yeah thats my favourite option. By "New" engine I actually meant a 2nd hand one as I completely agree that a new motor would be massively expensive haha.
Daniel Clarke wrote on Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 04:24 pm:
No way would i replace gaskets on a 300,000+km engine . Its time to drop in something with less km's mate
Agreed. Im thinking that gasket+labour would most likely be a similair price to replacing motor anyway.
Monday, December 29, 2008 - 07:33 pm, by: Rob Rojo(Rob_tt)
Try a bottle of seal-up (not chemi-weld), at around $20.00 a bottle it should fix the problem for a while and give you a bit of time to hunt down a good 2nd hand motor.
(I know a car that has had a blown head gasket about 80000k's ago and is still going strong)
Monday, December 29, 2008 - 08:12 pm, by: Luke Streat(Streatracer)
Rob Rojo wrote on Monday, December 29, 2008 - 07:33 pm:
Try a bottle of seal-up
Haha iv seen that stuff work miracles I shall try it. However...... there are no bubbles or oil in my coolant No milky stuff in my oil Car is blowing no smoke (except a little blue under boost as always) Is still boosting well and pulling strong but is running on 5 cylinders max, has very lumpy idle and a constant miss I am thoroughly confused as usual so shall be ringing DCI in the morning to book it in
Monday, December 29, 2008 - 08:30 pm, by: Michael Keen(Spoilt)
yeah do compression test. have you pulled the plugs out? might have just snapped a tip of a plug.. i have seen it. cracked coil even broken wire? start it and disconnect one coil at a time, and if the rough idle does not get worse you have found you cylinder, you can also pull injector plug, but it will be hard to reach.. then just pull the plug for that cylinder and check it
Monday, December 29, 2008 - 09:24 pm, by: Cameron Laufer(Ivboost)
I think you have melted a piston, heaps of blow by is a sure sign that rings are not sealing, I bet the miss is not ignition related. pulls strong under boost also fits the equation
Tuesday, December 30, 2008 - 12:31 am, by: Shadi Damouni(Shado)
Hey luke, i've read quite a bit about your car as it feature's in at least 3-4 topics. lol. You keep this forum ticking buddy, with laughs along the way!!
My two cents:
1. purchased the car for under 5k. nice price. It sounds like all options covered will cost you over 50-100% of the cars total value, and thats not taking into consideration future costs that a 300k car hits you with, wear and tear suspension drive line.etc
2.Part it out and hope to get back upto 50% of the cars total value. Which leaves you out a couple of grand (minimum of what you would be left out of pocket after the rebuild or possible dodgy second engine and the run around)
3.Invest in another soarer to similar or slightly higher value, and your left with a sh*t load of spare parts for those soarer rainy days. Plus those 4 cannons and fmic are a great start to your next ride. Just dont include the boost controller. lol
Tuesday, December 30, 2008 - 12:42 am, by: Luke Streat(Streatracer)
Shadi Damouni wrote on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 - 12:31 am:
Just dont include the boost controller
Ahahahahahaha oh so true! Im takin it to get checked out 2moro and unless by some miracle its an easy fix I think I'll be parting it out. I don't technically need it as my new job includes a daily driver (Cat 785 dump truck hehehe) so I can part out without much inconvenience, then buy something bigger and better (ie newer soarer)
Shadi Damouni wrote on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 - 12:31 am:
i've read quite a bit about your car as it feature's in at least 3-4 topics. lol
Haha yea i feel a bit rude hogging all the topics sometimes but this forum is like my obi wan kenobi "help me soarer central your my only hope" lol in a country full of commonwhores jap car knowledge is hard to come by