Friday, February 20, 2009 - 09:26 pm, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
finally got around to sanding and polishing my turbo piping, its still a little rough around the edges so i will need to go over it again, but it allready looks alot better than casted .
Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 01:19 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
You need to do something with the coolant pipe...I found it looks out of place next to the polished pipes. I painted mine body colour, same as the plug cover and factory blowoff valve.
Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 01:24 pm, by: Michael Keen(Spoilt)
i paid someone to do mine, haha was very cheap to. i got the rocker covers, fuel rail, throttle body and the small part of intake manifold all done for $250. well worth it i reckon.
Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 08:07 am, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Ty,
I did a tutorial on it, have a look under "How-to and tutorials" for "polishing intake pipes."
The bulk of the work is sanding the pipes smooth, using whatever you can get your hands on (grinder, sanders, files, hand sanding). Then you start to polish either by hand or power tools again. Bench grinder with calico and buffing wheels is a big help(cheap ones around $30, but the wheels are expensive- probably that again, and you need the cutting compounds)
Scott Wilkes TryHard Tasmania 92 TT Factory Manual
Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 10:04 am, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
i used a drill. Bought some flap sanders, and sanded off the cast marks, got into the little areas with a dremel and sanding attatchment.
Once i had the cast removed i got the wet and dry out and used it in succesion, courser to finner paper.
Then once i had that done used a polishing attatchment for my drill and used some course polishing compound, once i had it to a smooth matt colour i used another wheel with some fine polish, which brings it to a incredible shine.
Was thinking of clearcoating it, but it never goes right when i try to clearcoat metals lol
Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 05:09 pm, by: Ty Mackay(Duo89)
my step dad is a mechanic ey...he has a massive work shop, with all the equipment, he tries to help me out with my problems, but he is a truck mechanic so working on a hardcore import can prove its problems, but this should be easy,
if the how to tut shows me how to take them off, thats my only problem cause i need the car on the road haha!! =)
Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 06:15 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
QUestion.. Doesnt the actual ridges and imperfect surface of the factory cast pipes, help create highspots for the heat to dissipate from faster and allow airflow under the hood to help cool them ?
Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 06:32 pm, by: Mal Nicholson(Soarermal)
yep sure does. but were going for looks so have to make a sacrifice. just need to upgrade the cooling systems. possible cut a hole in the bonnet and add a air vent.
Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 07:42 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Daniel, I imagine there is more surface area on the factory finish, so they would dissipate (and absorb) more heat. Seeing as there is no airflow that high in the engine bay I think what you lose in the ability to dissipate (from the turbo outlet pipe) you gain with the shiny intake pipes ability to reflect heat.
I think this is up there with the black radiator/intercooler versus polished radiator/intercooler thing. I have both polished pipes, and a black front mount. I have not noticed any differences, either around town, or on 1000km runs inland. No vents or Homer Simpson style speed holes needed.
Now this is all just unresearched opinion, and my experiences.
Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 07:50 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
Airflow does happen that high in the engine bay, thats why the coil pack cover is vented as the firewall is a high pressure area which pulls air accross the top ?
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