| Author |
Message |
Chris Prak
DieHard
WA
JZZ30 Soarer - Twin Snails
Posts: 613
Reg: 12-2006
|
Ok, the problem:
No matter what gear I am in, starting off, it drives normal. When it hits 2500-3000rpm, it coughs and backfires (like the fuel cut feeling when overboosting) BUT, this happens even when I'm OFF boost and just lightly tapping the throttling to get a bit more speed on the highway (100kmph is around 2300rpm). After the 2500-300rpm stage from then on till redline, power is flat and car builds up speed very slowly even if engine is on full noise, but it still makes 1bar of boost at the inlet manifold.
Now, I have changed the ECU. The Engine Electrical System error seems to have gone off the dash for now, but it still has the choke effect. Reason I thought it was the ECU, is because it is RPM related, not throttle. Apart from the flat spot of power from 2500rpm till redline).
Drove with the TPS unplugged, Did nothing.
Fuel ECU bypass, Did nothing.
I'm going to change the fuel filter (only changed it a year ago) and check the fuel pump next. Is it common for soarer fuel pumps to play up?
Any other ideas guys? |
Mustafa Akgul
Goo Roo
NSW
Muzzy
Posts: 1930
Reg: 07-2005
|
99% COIL packs happened to my TT same symptoms. |
Kristian Sibum
Tinkerer
WA
2Jz 3.0 inline 6
Posts: 63
Reg: 02-2009
|
I had the same symptoms on my 2JZ N/A
I replaced spark plugs, and this fixed the problem. Next step for me was going to be spark leads.
I'd suggest pulling out your plugs, inspect them. If they look a bit crappy, Replace them!
They aren't expensive so I'd start with that. |
Chris Prak
DieHard
WA
JZZ30 Soarer - Twin Snails
Posts: 614
Reg: 12-2006
|
I've experienced the misfiring coilpack and dodgey spark plug. This is beyond that. It's more of a jolt/cut-out of the engine at that certain point only, then flat power after that point (Keep in mind that beyond 2500rpm is where the turbos come into play). Coilpacks wouldn't give me the feeling of flat power. It fires fine after 2500-3000rpm, just the car doesn't move even if the engine is on max load and sounds like it's lacking air or fuel.
Do you guys think it could be engine/block related? |
Chris Prak
DieHard
WA
JZZ30 Soarer - Twin Snails
Posts: 615
Reg: 12-2006
|
Ok after some searching tonight, I finally figured out how to do the Engine diagnostics, after more than 2 years on this forum. Last time I tried, I used the OBD port in the drivers foot-well, with no success so I gave up. I have gotten the fault code EFI 13. From my searching, this is cam angle sensor. I will check tomorrow at first light and keep this updated.
Are these the symptoms of a rooted cam angle sensor? |
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder
Posts: 4718
Reg: 03-2006
|
Yep, sure is 
Normally what happens is the Cam cover Gaskets leak oil down into the sensors, and play up . |
Chris Prak
DieHard
WA
JZZ30 Soarer - Twin Snails
Posts: 616
Reg: 12-2006
|
You mean the violent jerking can be caused by just cam sensors?
OK, error 13 is for sensor No.2
So which one is No.2? The Middle one or the rear one in the inlet manifold area? They are both very hard to get to. They ARE obliviated by oil though. |
Scott Wilkes
TryHard
Tasmania
92 TT Factory Manual
Posts: 308
Reg: 10-2008
|
personally i would replace both |
Chris Prak
DieHard
WA
JZZ30 Soarer - Twin Snails
Posts: 630
Reg: 12-2006
|
Okay, bit of an update for those having similar problems. I've replaced the cam sensor, still the same problem.
Now what I want to know is can I wire it up directly to the ECU, or does it have to go through relays/fuses? I have just unplugged it for now and runs so much better. The jerking/chug feeling only happens at around 4500rpm now, so it's quite driveable now and I feel boost as per usual up until that RPM range now.
So the question, can I wire a new route directly to the ECU, as I've looked for breakages/loose connections and can't find it. |
Michael Keen
Goo Roo
nsw
Soarer TT
Posts: 1649
Reg: 10-2007
|
also sounds like the map sensor as well.. |
Chris Prak
DieHard
WA
JZZ30 Soarer - Twin Snails
Posts: 637
Reg: 12-2006
|
Just had a play around with it today. The jerk/cutting out is gone now, throughout the whole rev range. BUT, the error is still there. We put a volt meter on the plug (with it unplugged at the sensor), and turn the car to ON. No volt reading. Are we testing it right?
If it were map sensor it would blow out heaps of fuel and foul the plugs. This isn't happening, plugs are fine.
This isn;t a major problem anymore as the car drives like normal now. Yes very strange, I am so puzzled that it seemingly has fixed itself or I bumped a few wires whatever. Error still there, but no symptoms that are dangerous. So confused. |
Aaron Casey
DieHard
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged
Posts: 932
Reg: 08-2005
|
have you checked the timing belt? take the cover off teh top and check may have skipped a tooth on the intake cam causing inaccurate reading compared to where it should be with the crank. just a thought very bad on cars like astra's and vectra's
try using the voltage at ac volts and see if you get a reading across it while the engine is running. |
Robert Day
TryHard
victoria
v8 & TT
Posts: 156
Reg: 01-2007
|
You say the error is still there...
Have you cleared the original fault codes ??
If you haven't cleared the fault codes they will stay visible every time you tap into the diagnostic's ..
I just disconnect the battery for a short while, there probably is a correct fuse to pull to do the same to clear the memory, but i loose track working on different cars, so the battery is the easiest way for me ... |
Chris Prak
DieHard
WA
JZZ30 Soarer - Twin Snails
Posts: 711
Reg: 12-2006
|
Thought I might update this if someone decides to run a search for similar problems. The problem has gone now. The jerking was from bad fuel. I drained the tank and cleaned as much dirt out as possible and put a fresh load in, perfect now.
The loss of power/error code 13 was related to the rubber on my harmonic balancer (or I think so), as the balancer shredded off a few week ago. It must have threw the timing out. But I thought if it slipped that bad, wouldn't it just cause the motor to stop running if inlet/outlet and crank aren't aligned? |
Ty Mackay
DieHard
WA
Soarer TT 1jz-gte
Posts: 703
Reg: 01-2009
|
how do u drain it then clean it?... did yo get high cleaning that stuff haha |
Chris Prak
DieHard
WA
JZZ30 Soarer - Twin Snails
Posts: 751
Reg: 12-2006
|
Same problem is back now, only to be even thicker.
Starts, idles fine in P and N. Shift it to D, idles rough, tap the accelerator, engine dies.
When I try to drive it, with foot on the brake to keep revs up, it will move, but with a lot of hesitation. It will only stay on when the engine is cold, after that, fuel will flood and it won't start until the fuel vapour is gone. That was all a few days ago... NOW,
Diagnostics error 13 (rear cam angle sensor). Swapped the rear with front, still error 13 after a reset. May lead to wiring, so how is it wired to the ECU? Relay or straight wire using + - ?
Unplugged the rear cam sensor, now running a bit better, but engine is in limp mode.
Changed the o2, still there.
Changed plugs using BKR6E.
Changed ECU.
Bypassed fuel ECU.
What does all this point to? I'm so confused, it was fine for about 2 months of heavy driving.
Does anyone in Perth want to be an organ donor? Things I want to check are:
- Another ECU (after reading Mike Biggs problem with VERY similar symptons due to leaking caps),
- TPS (when the throttle is slammed down quickly, I get hesitation before motor dies),
- Another set of Cam Sensors (Diagnostics keeps telling me this even though crank/cams are aligned),
- or whole new motor. |
David Ward
TryHard
Victoria
3.0 TT & 2.5 TT
Posts: 309
Reg: 10-2006
|
I reckon Michael may be right. See if you can borrow another MAP sensor. Because engine runs in closed loop till 60C it won't show up properly till warm then just die and/or won't run/start properly.
Will probably idle when cold but no real power.
Took ages to diagnose my same problem, after many months and numerous mechanics who couldn't find it, it was simply a damned MAP sensor playing funny buggers on and off.
good luck |
Chris Prak
DieHard
WA
JZZ30 Soarer - Twin Snails
Posts: 752
Reg: 12-2006
|
Another note to add. It doesn't have cold start. when starting cold, it just goes straight to ~600-700rpm. Coolant sensor? Where is this located.
Also when starting, it makes this horrid screech, like the serpentine belt, but mine is about 20,000 kms old? Tensioner pulley cause this?
Also tinkering around, found a loose wire. This is located under the inlet manifold at the front of the block and is a single wire plug. You guys think it could be the knock sensor plug? Because it does have no power so ecu is probably retarding timing.
Its late and I'm just throwing out ideas here to see what you all think, will get into it tomorrow.
I'm just about over this thing, might just drop a new motor in. |
Chris Prak
DieHard
WA
JZZ30 Soarer - Twin Snails
Posts: 753
Reg: 12-2006
|
David, does the 2jz map sensor fit or does it use different wiring. Fit meaning, plug and play.
Reason I ask is my friend has a 2jz so I could probably use his to test. |
Blake Gloyn
DieHard
manawatu
soarer JZZ30 TT
Posts: 540
Reg: 02-2006
|
plugs straight in. have done it myself. the MAP senor on a 2jzgte is located on the inlet plenum from memory, not on the firewall like the soarer's one. |
Danny Dinh
DieHard
Victoria
GT T
Posts: 529
Reg: 11-2005
|
Chris that sounds like the knock sensor wire you found there. It should solve your misery. also, the coolant sensor is the one with two wires located on the top radiator hose housing. Goodluck |
David Ward
TryHard
Victoria
3.0 TT & 2.5 TT
Posts: 312
Reg: 10-2006
|
Chris,
sounds like Blake knows better than I without checking.
I could go and check on my Aristo if you like, but I reckon I have read somewhere before that they are interchangeable however like Blake said.
Also going from memory there is also a coolant temp sensor at the front of the motor at about head height which uses a single wire |
Chris Prak
DieHard
WA
JZZ30 Soarer - Twin Snails
Posts: 754
Reg: 12-2006
|
Hmm okay, Well I just took off the harmonic balancer to check the crank angle sensor, seems fine. Though, it is a two wire plug, with a separate earth that goes into the same shrink wrap as the other two, but it just ends? halfway to the connector. Anyone know if its supposed to have proper grounding of some sort?
Will be removing the power steering pump and starter motor to check the all sensors on the inlet side tomorrow. Hope it is the knock sensor plug... can't see anything on that side. |
Cihan Aday
Moderator
etuner.com.au
JZZ30
Posts: 3116
Reg: 07-2005
|
Crank, and both cam angle sensors share a common signal ground which needs to lead to the battery negative terminal.
If you disconnect the knock sensor input, it will retard 10+ degrees as the map voltage gets above 2.65v or atmo. |
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