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Nathan Hlad
TryHard
NT
soarer jzz30 tt

Posts: 238
Reg: 09-2008

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Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 01:35 pm, by:  Nathan Hlad (Jackpot) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i have been told that the stock 1jz radiator can hold its own with the best aftermarket ones, is this true ??
is an aftermarket radiator a complete waste of money or a good upgrade from the stock one ?

p.s i am talking about a trust radiator.
Dave Cazes
TryHard
SA
tt

Posts: 419
Reg: 08-2007

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Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 01:55 pm, by:  Dave Cazes (Cazman) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Get a temp gauge, if your car sits on 80-90 degrees no matter the conditions, DONT CHANGE IT EVER.

I did becasue of my setup but it isnt that nessasary. I never did get a temp gauge when I had my stock rad though, I will always regret this.

By the way, the stock gauge sucks, it reads half way up until 105-100 degrees.

My mates theory is its so your wife doesnt panic with the gauge fluttering all over the place
Nathan Hlad
TryHard
NT
soarer jzz30 tt

Posts: 240
Reg: 09-2008

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Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 03:14 pm, by:  Nathan Hlad (Jackpot) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

so you are saying an aftermarket radiator is better than the stock one ever though the stock one is awesome ??
how much better is an aftermarket one compared to the stock one ?
Justin Camilleri
Goo Roo
QLD
Had a 85 MZ10, 92 TT, Now 91 TT

Posts: 1036
Reg: 07-2005

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Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 04:28 pm, by:  Justin Camilleri (Just) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You will never have to worry about it cracking, I see most aftermarket radiators are aluminum.
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 4923
Reg: 03-2006

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Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 04:59 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well, The stock one can have the end tanks removed and recored or flushed and have new tanks put on. You can never clean an Alloy one properly as you cannot seperate them without busting the warranty .

Most people i know always used the stock setup as it works really well. Even on higher HP applications.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1458
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 05:01 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nathan,

I run the stock radiator in the track car on the advice of my local Natrad guy. He did himself out of a sale with the advice. According to him, and others, the factory gear(including shrouds, fan and ducting etc) is a pretty robust system that can easily handle mild power increases. If you are building a 500Kw monster then you may want to upgrade the cooling system to suit.

His advice was to run the stock radiator in good condition. If It couldn't cope, then you can work out what you need to do to improve the system such as more coolant volume, more radiator surface area and so forth.

It is very easy to go backwards with a poorly thought out aftermarket setup. Big name brands aren't all you need to look for. I would keep the stock setup on a street car unless it has failed and the fix is to expensive, or if your motor/setup has outgrown it.
Nathan Hlad
TryHard
NT
soarer jzz30 tt

Posts: 243
Reg: 09-2008

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Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 06:32 am, by:  Nathan Hlad (Jackpot) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

the stock radiator is really that good hey ??
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 10526
Reg: 11-2004

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Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 01:32 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

What's to improve? If it flows enough air and coolant to keep the temperature under control, then it's doing it's job.

Let's say you put in a bigger radiator that can remove more heat from the coolant. It just means the thermostat won't fully open. The car won't go faster, in fact it may be a fraction slower due to the increased weight of the extra coolant. :-)

A bigger fuel tank won't make it go faster either.
James Harris
Goo Roo
QLD
GT Starlet

Posts: 2702
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 06:34 pm, by:  James Harris (Haro) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

if it aint broke.... don't fix it
Dave Cazes
TryHard
SA
tt

Posts: 422
Reg: 08-2007

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Friday, May 01, 2009 - 12:30 pm, by:  Dave Cazes (Cazman) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Whay I was saying is test your stock one with a temp gauge, if its doing its hob leave it alone.

I changed mine because my intercooler setup meant I needed a new radiator.
Aaron Mead
Goo Roo
NT
Celsior 1UZ-FE Mines, JZZ30 1.5JZ-GTE To4z

Posts: 2291
Reg: 03-2006

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Monday, May 04, 2009 - 10:38 am, by:  Aaron Mead (Aaron) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The stock is radiator is nuts. I had the factory twins pumoping out 17 pounds all day in Darwin weather with the AC working 24/7. It did really well. Was fine on the dyno too, run after run. I think one night we did over 30 pulls.

When I went to the GT35/40 single, it started to really show weaknesses. After 7 pulls on the dyno it would start to creep up to 107-111 degrees. This included the fact the transmission (1.5 shift kit) was still routed through the radiator prior to the dedicated trans cooler.

Dont forget, the AT up here is usually 15 degrees higher than what you start with in southern states. Same for water temperature. For most of the year, water temp out of the tap is over 26 degrees.

Anyway, ive now gone on to a 3.1L botom end and a t04z. So its time to try out this new radiator and thermo fans. Ive also decided against running the trans fluid through the radiator this time.
Aaron Mead
Goo Roo
NT
Celsior 1UZ-FE Mines, JZZ30 1.5JZ-GTE To4z

Posts: 2292
Reg: 03-2006

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Monday, May 04, 2009 - 10:43 am, by:  Aaron Mead (Aaron) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Oddly, i had thermal improvements with the 3540 when i dumped the clutch fan and went to a couple of 14" thermos. Yes, horror! I honestly think it has something to do with the humidty causing the factory system to be unable to 'scrub' heat as effectively. Meh, I have nothing to follow in this climate, so its all just test and see for me.

What works for me........works for me!
Vinh Bui
Goo Roo
NSW
94 UZZ31 (V8) / 96 JZZ30 (TT) / 97 JZA80 (TT)

Posts: 2794
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, May 04, 2009 - 12:33 pm, by:  Vinh Bui (Hyudsjk) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Do you still have your 3540 setup lying around Aaron?
Aaron Mead
Goo Roo
NT
Celsior 1UZ-FE Mines, JZZ30 1.5JZ-GTE To4z

Posts: 2293
Reg: 03-2006

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Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 01:07 pm, by:  Aaron Mead (Aaron) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sold it to cihan, vinh.

ANyone with aftermarket radiators and coolers: what did you guys do with all the factory airflow guides, you know, like the shroud thats body clipped onto the ally front reinforcememnt bar, the upper shroud that sort of block the top half of the AC condenser..

The lower air diffuser that send air up from under the front bar I have retained, but im wondering about the others. Im trying out one of those predator kits in mine.

Ive kept all the diffusers and guides so far, will see how it goes once it's up and running i guess. I fitted a trans cooler, power steering cooler and relocated the eng oil cooler on the weekend. 97 front bars fog lights make the engine oil cooler a bt of a bastards to locate. Should propbably eff them off, the foglights....
Ken Brahniuk
Tinkerer
British Columbia
2.5 twin turbo

Posts: 11
Reg: 12-2008

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Monday, December 14, 2009 - 10:14 am, by:  Ken Brahniuk (Ken_b) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My top radiator tank is cracked , and I was looking at replacing the radiator. I stopped when I noticed the piping coming out of the front( grill side) of the radiator on both sides. Are these pipes part of the main radiator? The replacement radiator did not have pipe outlets of the front side. Would appreciate your help with this question.
Christian Molenda
Goo Roo
QLD
T

Posts: 1206
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, December 14, 2009 - 10:42 am, by:  Christian Molenda (Christof) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ken Brahniuk wrote on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 10:14 am:

My top radiator tank is cracked , and I was looking at replacing the radiator. I stopped when I noticed the piping coming out of the front( grill side) of the radiator on both sides. Are these pipes part of the main radiator? The replacement radiator did not have pipe outlets of the front side. Would appreciate your help with this question.




Look Closer. Thats probably your aircond cooler. It sits infornt of the radiator and can be mistaken as being part of it.
Aiden Cheese
TryHard
QLD
Soarer jzz30

Posts: 253
Reg: 09-2009

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Monday, December 14, 2009 - 11:01 am, by:  Aiden Cheese (Chillpen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


James Harris wrote on Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 06:34 pm:

if it aint broke.... don't fix it


But it is broke, so probably he should fix it.

The advice here is to fix it, not replace it?

That said to give you an idea, a core clean and a toptank would have cost me $220. So if you look as that as a benchmark for what it will cost to fix, then thats probably a good start.
Ken Brahniuk
Tinkerer
British Columbia
2.5 twin turbo

Posts: 12
Reg: 12-2008

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Monday, December 14, 2009 - 12:01 pm, by:  Ken Brahniuk (Ken_b) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for the advice guys, I will try a radiator shop

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