after twenty minutes of driving giving it a hit here and there not a problem with boost coming on then all off a sudden bang no does not have any power after 5 pound needle goes to 14 pound but it just wont move. tried everything reset ecu , fmic pipes,clamps ,hoses,vacume lines,changed recently cause thought thats were it was coming from. still no difference... please help as i hate it after 20 minutes
Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 12:51 pm, by: James Harris(Haro)
ummm hard to read post buddy, try and work on that.
This comes up about a once a month hey, im still going to back one of your pipes have come loose *please note the CORRECT use of the word LOOSE and also note this is not the same as LOSE or LOSING which is what you should have used in your thread title.*
Go back to checking all your piping, also you may have blown out one of the silicone joiners, so check those for cracks etc.
Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 02:30 pm, by: Robert Day(Lexsmaz)
If you are still getting 14 pounds boost on your gauge ( re-check where your boost gauge signal is coming from, it should be from your intake plenum ) & if thats the case the piping etc is ok, there is some other issue .. Check for fault codes on your computer first as something is probably cropping up ..
Im very sorry james,Im new to this computer thing.It is really hard to read. just like to thank you guys for taking the time to read my post..i will have another look tommorrow,but what i dont understand is why after 20 minutes of driving i get this boost leak all of a sudden?Not from when i first start driving, but i can hear boost leaking from some where.
arghhh thanks rob ill give it a go.as i need as much advice as i can get, cause my mechanic said it was the tranny getting hot and going into limp mode... but i cant see why it would cause boost failure after driving a bit of time...
Monday, July 06, 2009 - 02:37 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
Chris Prak ... Your issue sounds like a Blocked Melted Cat convertor champ ... Sure signs being, Still have boost, car revs fine, no missfire, Just doesnt have any guts .
Remove the Cat and check to see if it is blocked. Drop The exhaust off before the cat, and take for a quick spin, see how it goes. Or you can try this on a dyno .
daniel, if it was a blocked cat,wouldnt it come up in the dash with the cat light??? just asking cause before this problem happened to my car i sort off remember the cat light coming on, but my mechanic reckons its my tranny??
Monday, July 06, 2009 - 08:23 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
Sebastian , could be the trans, but could also be the cat . Sometimes people disconnect the sensor for the overheating cat light so you cannot always assume the light will reveal all
I would suggest in your case also to get the Cat looked at .
ok checked,all hoses no leaks tightend a few clamps, felt a bit loose but nothing major.looked at the coils few cracks and bit oily,but seemed ok.looked at the vaucum lines and did notice acid on them from the battery been overfilled... also my battery is really,really small do u think this would be causing me to loose power once reached a certain temp???
Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 07:49 pm, by: Rob Rojo(Rob_tt)
Did you actually pressure test the system? My car was leaking boost at one stage and did not see the leak but when I actually pressure tested it turned out to be a hole that was caused from rubbing against the ac fan.
The water or intake temp sensor or connections could also be causing the problem. If the sensor is reading too hot or getting a bad signal the ECU will retard the timing and this will cause a very noticeable power loss. Try cleaning the connectors that go into the sensors or removing and cleaning the sensors. The intake temp sensor (located on the intake manifold) can get very dirty.
rob i know this is proberly a dumb question, as im no brains to a cars motor. is the intake manifold the side where the turbos are on. cause i can see two 2 sensors that go into the pipe that leads to the turbos. like a small prong with a connector to it and another green plug to it.. sorry for the dumb question. but my mechanic keeps saying its the gearbox getting hot and throwing it into limp mode so i dont destroy any thing. he said an oil cooler will fix this problem with out fail. but before i bought the car it never had this problem..till i blew the turbos and now it does not seem right...
Friday, July 10, 2009 - 01:57 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
If you blew the turbos, Did someone remove the broken exhaust wheels from the exhaust system ?? They would be stuck against the cat convertor .
Get the Cat checked for blockages... When cold maybe the broken bits are laying down and not blocking flow, but once heated up after some exhaust gas flow, they are getting thrown against the biscuit in the Cat .
RObert .. No mate, Boost will still be the same, but will see a massive drop in power if blocked cat . Boost will still be there , but power will not be.
Friday, July 10, 2009 - 02:24 pm, by: Rob Rojo(Rob_tt)
Daniel, from Sabastians first post I gather he is saying that it still making boost but loosing power after 20mins of driving. If the cat was blocked it would not matter how long you had been driving, if its blocked its blocked.
Unless your running and electronic boost controller the boost will drop if you have a blocked cat, thats why when you fit a better flowing exhaust the stock boost usually raises a bit.
Pic below shows temp sensor highlighted in yellow. (its on the engine side of the intake manifold)
well see heres the problem. no i dont think the cat has been checked and i will do it this weekend,do i drop it from the dumps or half way, not sure never done this before as im a spray painter, and not keen for doin mechanical work. but i will try.i have a three inch exhaust from dumps back from what my reciepts say, and also that temp sensor does that come off the rocket cover,and have a hose connected to it cause it has got a good kink in it, and looks like it is restricting something,that escapes from that hose if im correct its a one way valve???
i am also running a greddy profec b boost controller, and when i first start her up in the morning ,the controller might say 7.2, 7.4 then after driving for a while it will say 9.9. (running only 10 pound as she wont move any way so know point trying to run 14).. weird.. no boost drop what so ever holds 10,14 strong just no power..
also driving on the freeway for about 1 hour and a half try to overtake a truck at 110, i planted it and it dropped down the gears all noise, but didnt gain any speed quickly.. please help me.. but will check all these things .. thank you guys
Daniel mate,im located at seven hills but im more than happy to come to you, just some one who knows soarers more than i do i get lost in the engine bay , so yeah if your not heaps far and have a bit of spare time,and keen to give a guy some ideas after taking it for a wrap. cheers dan.....
Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 10:44 am, by: Chris Prak(Carizma)
Daniel, I have no cat, so it can't be anything in the exhaust.
Could it be the gearbox? I mean, his symptoms and mine are similar, and the feeling I get get is like the engine is trying to rev, but something is holding it back. Gearbox oil is fresh Toyota Type IV and I have a shift kit.
Another theory is the cam/valves/timing is a tad off? Then again, engine would've exploded by now right?
Cameron, Boost gauge is connected to inlet plenum, so its holding pressure.
Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 10:51 am, by: Rob Rojo(Rob_tt)
If the Auto was slipping the car would be revving out but not going anywhere. If it is only doing it occasionally I would think it would be electrical, If the engine is knocking badly the ECU will retard the timing and the car will loose a lot of power.