Monday, August 31, 2009 - 11:15 pm, by: Sebastian Grant(Saabg)
Nathan, I'm running penrite fully synthetic 10w-40 and I haven't dropped a mL, in saying that, I think with our cars being so old now in varying conditions with different modifications you will to have find the best oil for your engine. Would you suggest 15-50 Daniel as a base for Nathan being that he's from NT?
Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 01:58 pm, by: David Grab(Blastedbyasoarer)
Its just a brand of oil. Ive always used Motul Turbolight but will be changing to Nulon fully synthetic. Apparently Motul breaks down after 1000kms and people have gotten a good response going to Nulon after using Motul. personally i havent had any dramas with Motul but ill compare that when i throw in some Nulon.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 06:07 pm, by: Barry Main(Barry_m)
There are many very knowledgable posts going back over quite a long time about the right oil for a Soarer and whether you should use a mineral, semi-synthetic or fully synthetic oil. Well worth researching.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 11:42 pm, by: David Grab(Blastedbyasoarer)
Walter they reckon the tests were •••••• though and what they said was a industry standard test was actually bullshit. Same with Rigoli's test for Nulon which show the most increase in kilowatts, again bullshit as there were heaps of variables like the fan been really close on the dyno compared to the other oils.
Kevin for a JZZ31 Magnatec will be ok, im more talking about turbo engines that have a higher amount of heat due to having to lubricate the turbos.
Thursday, October 15, 2009 - 06:58 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Magnatec might be a little heavy in a turbo engine - I use in in my JZZ31 too Kevin, and its been very good, but in a JZZ30 I'd probably spend a little more money and get Castrol Edge Sport, 5w30, or the equivalent Penrite, Mobil or Havoline. Much better for a turbo I would think.
You can of course move up to the really expensive stuff like Royal Purple, Nulon etc if you have the cash, but really pretty pointless in a road car, and often not the best choice as pointed out by David, some of them are REALLY track specific and are designed to be chucked out after one or two meets, so just won't make it to 5000km on the road.
Thursday, October 15, 2009 - 02:58 pm, by: David Grab(Blastedbyasoarer)
Well i pay around $60-$70 for Motul Turolight but yeah for around $60 i can get a fully synthetic oil from Nulon so ill be going with them. There was been a test with a EVO 6.5 TME on the dyno to see how much power it gets with 5 different oil brands but the test done by Rigoli was bullshit. Same thing with a test for Royal Purple which said the testing procedure was a standardised industry test which was wrong and made Royal Purple look like bees knees. Only reason why im going to try Nulon is that apparently it wont degrade as quickly as Turbolight. A lot of the 180sx and Silvia guys experience shakiness after 1000km with Turbolight but when they changed to Nulon the car ran a lot better. Im not convinced but i know Nulon is good stuff so its not going to damage the engine if i try it out.
Thursday, October 15, 2009 - 10:20 pm, by: Andrew Beutel(Peanut01)
I've used penrite 10/50 semi synthetic in my 1jz soarer for about 2 years has never used a drop of oil and the to4e has never had a problem. in my 2jz supra i use motul 4100 turbolight 10/40 bloody great oil car previously had crappy valvoline stuff in it from the old owner the worst oil ever engine instantly felt stronger running motul.
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i have not even got mine on the road yet! lol
