Monday, November 16, 2009 - 02:32 pm, by: Carlo Cervo(Chomp)
Please help i have tried every thing i can think of. Ok so the story goes my old engine dies so i got it replaced, ever since i have had that horrid "BING" and the car just splatters when boosting can drive it but under load just carries on,
I ran the diag and came up with error code 52 Knock sensor so i changed the knock sensor with my old one (from other engine) and knock sensor error code still came even after ecu reset.
now during this process my mate forgot to tighten one of the intercooler piping clips and it "popped" off when i took it for a drive to test after changing the knock sensor and could put my foot flat without splattering but there was no boost (felt like it was running 6 cylinders no boost) as it was escaping this has lead me to the train of though that the turbos are forcing (turbo's are stock and running 8psi)to much air into the fuel OR not enough fuel causing the engine to "knock",
so i am about to change the fuel filter to test this getting causing the engine to "knock". when i tightened the clip around the cooler piping on arrival home i bet you can guess the car went back to splattering. Is Injector cleaner "ok" to use? Could i have two Dodgy Knock Sensors? Change fuel filter should help i guess? could the injectors be clogged? I am just completely lost on how to fix this problem any help would be much appreciated. it's a nightmare to drive and i am not sure if i am hurting it by driving Cheers
Monday, November 16, 2009 - 04:33 pm, by: Jeff Bedsor(Jeff_bedsor)
Check that the wire to "both" knock sensors have been connected properly. The rear one is above the starter motor, I had the same symptoms when I forgot to connect it.
Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 08:23 am, by: Carlo Cervo(Chomp)
thanks, rob next on the list, i replaced fuel filter (No Help) The hose to the map sensor was fine tested by pulling off and drive no revs (not like the problem i am experiencing) Next will be spark plugs any suggestions on brand?, not to sure about coil packs how do i "check" for cracks? thanks for your help so far
Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - 12:20 am, by: Austen Menze(Mercyfulfate)
I do it with a drill press. Put the spark plug into a spark plug socket and stick it on the bed. Put the feeler gauge in the gap and wind the chuck down onto it. Easy!
Probably not the correct way to do it though, as theres tools you're supposed to use.
Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - 06:13 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
You can get a gapping tool for a couple of dollars. Grabs onto the ground electrode so you can leaver it. Do NOT tap them on the ground :-)
Copper/nikel plugs usually need to be gapped, and you can get away with doing it with a screw driver and a piece of wood (screwdriver to widen, then press on wood to narrow), but iridium and platinum plugs come pre-gapped and should not need to be re-gapped when new (pays to check before you put them in though!) - do not gap a iridium or platinum plug with a screwdriver, you will damage it.
Monday, January 25, 2010 - 01:02 pm, by: Carlo Cervo(Chomp)
ok guys still need help...... i have changed fuel filter, replaced coil packs, new spark plugs (gapped to 0.7), changed oil and running 98 octane fuel, replaced ecu... the car is running "slightly better'. still a problem because now it's backfiring (scares the sh!t outta me every time), not boosting properly and running Rich (black smoke and LOTS of it when under real load not when idoling none at all).... To fix the problem i'm thinking: Dyno tune? (will this lean the fuel eg no black smoke, stop back firing)? Ecu replaced recently (could fuel map sensor be the problem)? engine not knocking BUT error code still comes up even though i have replaced knock sensor and reset ecu? any help would be much appreciated Cheers Carlo
Monday, January 25, 2010 - 07:31 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
Use a vice to regap plugs . I regap iridiums in the vice, very simple to do and doesnt damage anything . Same goes for Coppers . I usually put feeler guage in and wind it closed . Check gap and see if it needs more or not .
If your running bigger boost then use a 7 heat range plug .
Monday, January 25, 2010 - 10:46 pm, by: Shadi Damouni(Shado)
Dyno would be pointless without a tunable piggy back or standalone computer. Black smoke= rich= backfiring of un burnt fuel in the exhaust. If this is your problem a safc+tune could help? What injectors are you running? Fuel pump? Why did old engine die?
Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 01:08 pm, by: Lew Radbourn(Marlew)
Carlo; Take the car around to Neil(grandad) at Queenbyen Auto tech he has a dyno and he will know what to do even before it gets on a dyno; that is the closest guy i can think of for ya mate.He is one of the best guys with soarers that i know of.
Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 01:57 pm, by: Shadi Damouni(Shado)
Sorry i didnt think you could tune without a piggy back etc. excuse my ignorance. I thought it was obviously running rich and a tunable unit is always handy and could help in pin pointing the issue, as well as making the car run alot more efficiently. unless it is a sensor. Considering carlo stated the knock was gone?? What would i know anyway, i fix teeth
Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 02:15 pm, by: Lew Radbourn(Marlew)
Shadi... Mate you can reset your ecu and that is about it with out a piggy back. some guys don't know this. it is a good idea to do it about every 3-6 months as the toyota ecu is self learning and picks up driving habits. But i always wondered what happens when you have a piggy back as well. When you rest your ecu and the piggy back is tuned to the old settings the toyota ecu has learnt does it stuff up all that money spent on getting the car tuned on the dyno?????? i recon it does what are your thoughts?
Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 02:38 pm, by: Shadi Damouni(Shado)
Not sure, good question! I wouldn't think that the mixtures (AFR's) would change when reseting the ecu considering the programmed unit has not been reset? And is still communicating through the ecu? Correct me if i'm wrong, have never done it as i have a vvti running on afm. Never had a piggy on my tt either.
Monday, February 01, 2010 - 11:25 am, by: Carlo Cervo(Chomp)
OK thanks for all the help guys.... I have tested the wiring with a multi meter at idle recorded no power running through them at ecu end for both knock sensor 1 and 2. the wires were already spliced (unsure why not done by me)and newer wiring was put through at some stage. I will replace the wiring (can't wait....NOT) but could this be the reason the car is splattering? does the knock sensors affect air fuel mixture? making it splatter underload and run rich (i wouldn't have thought so)? everything is stock so ecu (no piggyback), injectors, intercooler, coilpack etc thanks for all your assistance guys, any help/suggestions are appreciated
Monday, February 01, 2010 - 08:13 pm, by: James Wilson(Ser493)
There could be a few reasons someone spliced them.
An extra warning light mounted in the car for knock sensors?
Aftermarket piggyback ecu in the past?
Maybe the original wires were so brittle they had perished once already, I know mine are like rock hard - cross fingers they dont cause me any issues.
It should not be too hard to replace them, Having said that I would probably suggest forking out some cash and getting someone to do it for you...I probably wouldn't do it myself.
I'm about to have the number 6 injector rewired on my car because the trigger wire is history. It's not going to cost me too much...maybe 100?? I will let you know if you like?
Monday, February 01, 2010 - 09:42 pm, by: Aaron Casey(Blownminiturbo)
if you are really worried try get a genuine connector if possible to put onto your knock sensor then rewire it from there to where its broken. check if it has power from the actual ecu wire. and continuity between ecu harness to the knock sensor plug and also to ground see if its shorting to ground. a terminal test kit would be perfect to test your connectors but they are worth almost a grand
Monday, February 01, 2010 - 09:48 pm, by: Aaron Casey(Blownminiturbo)
oh and also when replacing knock sensors they must be tightened to the correct torque!!!!!if you under or overtighten will make the knock sensor give incorrect readings
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