I have recently purchased a cabin manual boost controller. However, it doesn't seem to work well. The problem is that, it seems to boost to maximum boost even though the controller is turned to minimum.
I have try to connect in 2 ways: First attempt-------- - rear compressor is blocked - rear wastegate actuator is connected to the front wastegate with metal T-Piece, in the direction of arrow pointing toward wastegate. - front compressor is connected to the other side of metal T-piece. - Top of metal T-piece is connected to the controller
Second attempt------- - rear compressor is connected to front compressor with extra T-piece - rear wastegate is connected to front wastegate with extra T-piece - The connected wastegate is then connected to metal T-piece, in the direction of arrow points towards wastegate. - The connected compressor is connected to the other side of metal T-piece - Top of metal T-piece is then connected to controller
Both of them result in turbo cut due to max boost. ECU cuts at 1 bar.
Any help or idea will be much appreciated. Cheers.
Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 11:12 am, by: Marc Hoffmann(Rushed)
mine with stock turbos used to hit boost cut with just; bfi, intercooler, stock dump, well designed 3" bump back > 2x 2.5" exhaust.
i didn't bother with the manual controllers after reading the 100's of posts on spiking, i went a gizzmo, but i set mine up the same as your second attempt (if i am reading it right), theres a pic of how to do it floating around somewhere.
do you have a boost gauge to have a friend stare at it to see if it is spiking?
Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 09:40 pm, by: James Harris(Haro)
oooh this one has come up a few times indeed.
CUE from stage LEFT.... that bloody computer image of the boost controller install with the twin turbos that has been floating around forever and has popped up numerous times on this site and others and was apparently created by some clever gentleman who frequents this particular site from time to time and may or may not still own a Toyota Soarer with the twin turbo engine.....
Alright, I will redo everything accordingly to the image above. One question though, should the arrow of metal T-piece points toward wastegate or compressor?
Monday, November 23, 2009 - 11:06 am, by: James Harris(Haro)
That arrow is the AIR FLOW DIRECTION...
From looking at your pics, im assuming that device on the top right of the picture is simply a T piece.
So i would be putting the PRESSURE side into the IN ARROW on the actual controller (the one with the knob) as then you can BLEED the pressure off which will keep the wastegates open more to create more boost which is the whole point of a bleed valve.
BLUE hose into ARROW
** oh and if its wrong all it means is simply swap the hoses over. Also make sure your controller is wound completely to OFF , technically speaking your boost levels should not even change.
*** another tip. Try and use equal lengths of hose , not sure if it REALLY makes a difference but i have been told it keeps the twins happy.
Monday, November 23, 2009 - 11:47 am, by: Aiden Cheese(Chillpen)
I also have a question, if a boost controller is hooked up like that, it's going to have both turbo's set to the same boost? IE: not come on sequentially, but instead come on together?
(You'll have to forgive how new i am to forced induction )
Monday, November 23, 2009 - 05:26 pm, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
james, actually the 2JZ turbos are both the same size, how it works is it has a bypass between the 2 turbos, through a series of complete solenoids, and valves, all 6 cylinders power 1 turbo (as you can imagine, being alot more responsive than 3 cylidners)
Once a certain RPM is reached, this bypass is closed off and the 2nd turbo is now powered by 3 cyliders and the other by 3.
Its pretty complex and im crap at explaining so yeah haha.
OK! I have taken off the metal T-piece provided, and replaced with normal plastic T-piece, and connected hoses like diagram above. Now it works but it can only boost to 0.8 bar max even though I tried to turn the controller up all the way.