Sunday, January 24, 2010 - 07:16 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
hahaha no heroes here mate. i turn my car off if i only go for a short drive its as simple as hitting the off button
i find it easier to turn the turbo timer off when not needed than to wait around for my car to cool sufficiently after a hard drive, theres not always something to grab or dordle around in the car for when i get out. its just there for peace of mind if its not needed then turn it off. easy as pie.
listen to you guys stereotyping people. simply because they want a little peace of mind with their cars. i nod my head to my stereo, because im listening to my mixes, great opportunity to pick apart your own work for improvement whilst driving your car.
everyone is different and so everyone's driving style is different, if he wants a turbo timer for the peace of mind or even the WANK factor. then he can do as he pleases.
mark if your always running late then it would be a good investment for you. i enjoy a bit of spirited driving every now and then and its good to be able to enjoy a good drive with a few mates then stop quickly for a meal or snack without having to worry about the turbo's cooking. since australia is a lot hotter than japan a bit of a wind down couldnt hurt the engine or the turbo's.
a lot of turbo 4wd's are also running turbo timers standard from factory, granted diesel runs hotter but still same principle, the manufacturers dont want to have to repair cooked turbo's on their cars under warranty so for their peace of mind they fit a turbo timer as standard.
or you could just change your whole demeanor and become a very punctual person this will also "save you turbo's" in the end its your choice mate. its something that you need to decide on based on your driving style.
Sunday, January 24, 2010 - 09:15 pm, by: James Harris(Haro)
hehehe as mentioned YES they can be helpful sometimes... and if you feel like throwing some money into the car then go ahead.
Maybe you should invest in a better watch Mark and perhaps roll your watch 10 Minutes faster hahah. Works well for me. Nobody likes a tardy worker.
*** anyways boys and girls this thread has gone off topic a little and i apologise for leading it that way.
Back to original post :
FMIC - yes Dumps/exhaust - Yes Boost Controller - prob not required once you get the above TWO items as you will hit 15 psi naturally anyways. Fuel Pump - prob not required but i upgrade mine also just to be on the safe side... as i didnt wanna tune up the safc and then have my fuel pump let go and cause dramas.
Ben Lipman Goo Roo NT Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Sunday, January 24, 2010 - 09:31 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
While you blokes are considering the pros and cons of turbo timers you might want to check the relevant regulations and your insurance policies. There was a spate of fuel fires caused by turbo timers running the fuel pumps for 2 minutes after various car crashes. This ( I believe) resulted in some states creating legislation regarding turbo timers and their installation. Same same insurance companies.
There must be some sort of device to prevent 'accidental' running of the fuel pumps. Most people simply run a wire across to the handbrake switch (the one that activates the warning light on the dash). This way the timer will not kick in unless the handbrake is applied. This is what I did in the Rx-7 and the engineer was happy.
Then again, if you are fully hektik boosting into the driveway mate, maybe you should not be applying the handbrake anyway...(warped rotors?)
Sunday, January 24, 2010 - 11:27 pm, by: Sebastian Grant(Saabg)
You can get a brand new greddy turbo timer for $130, so it's not a lot of money for some peace of mind. Daniel, don't you have one? You've been running 18psi through standard turbos for how long now? I'm not saying that the turbo timer is the only reason why but it definitely helps.
Monday, January 25, 2010 - 09:26 am, by: Lew Radbourn(Marlew)
Mark I will try to get this thread back on topic for ya mate. Mods i recon you should do first to last. FMIC...allow the charged air to get colder...the engine will love you for this.. Air intake ...allow the engine to breath..the more air supply to the turbos will help heaps. In doing this DO NOT just put a pod filter on and suck all the hot air in from under the bonnett. Open up the front of the standard air box and duct air in from under the head light area. Exhaust system. Dumps are a must you have to get the cast iron "Y" piece out from between the turbos it is very restrictive then run twin 2 1/2" to a single 3" past the gearbox and split it to twins again with centre/offset rear mufflers.Just past the gearbox (in the tunnel) you place a hotdog muffler and your cat this will stop any droning noise and keep the car quiet enough at low revs and above 4000rpm it will let you hear what is going on . Now with these 3 mods done you will be looking at around 200 rwkw "O" yer the dump pipes will raise your boost by around 2 psi because the turbos are spinning freely. At 14psi you are going to hit Fuel cut(boost cut) Now if you hit fuel cut don't let it happen to many times as it does exactly what its name is. FUEL CUT...NO FUEL, HOT SPARK PLUG,HOT COMBUSTION CHAMBER = HOLE IN PISTON Any mods above this will start to gobble money forget the SAFS there are heaps of other ECU's out there that will do more for less money. from this point you have to start looking at what to do with the stock turbo's (steel wheels,roller bearing centres or a single turbo) Now don't forget the stock turbos are at least 19 years old and thay don't like being boosted of there brain thay are not designed to be boosted any were near 18psi thay create to much heat and will not last very long. 14-16 would be a max psi for these turbos. At this point put the car on a dyno and check that your air fuel ratios are still with in there limits if the car is still running rich you can turn the boost up a little just do this on the dyno. Next mod larger injectors and ecu to be able to tune all of the above.
Mark with all the mods mentioned above using 440cc injectors you could have 250rwkw easily But that would be a safe max kw for the size of the injectors and a emangle blue will still be able to tune them (cheap ecu for mild mods)
Monday, January 25, 2010 - 07:28 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
Yeah i got a turbo timer and i use it . Looking at 200,000km's soon and still going . SO i will keep using it when needed .
Yes mods free up things and increase boost , but its still not as effective as using an EBC which almost eliminates wastegate creep and brings boost on much harder and crisper , giving much more mid range torque .
Monday, January 25, 2010 - 11:39 pm, by: Mark Salter(Markness)
Ebc?
I've got to replace the turbos as mine are blowing smoke so I should change the dump pipes at the same time.. Will do front mount at the same time I rekon..
Can anyone suggest a set of dumps that I can get for a decent price, without having to modify them to fit at all, because I don't want the hassle..
What size are standard injectors, would I need any other mods to support 440c injectors?
Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 07:35 am, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
Unique auto sports dump pipes mate. Only thing it requires is a exhaust shop to manufacture a downpipe of them, not hard. There the only dumps around that will bolt straight up, are available and work. Otherwise your looking at trying to find a set of lews 2nd hand on here.
Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 09:18 am, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
I wouldnt even bother upgrading injectors . I've been running stock injectors with a Walbro pump for years running 18psi and making 260rwkw without issues to this day .
Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 12:11 am, by: Mark Salter(Markness)
Ok, so so far,
Fmic, dump pipes and full exhaust first...
I've got a pod filter, will need to have a play around and try and understand the bfi mod..
From the look of things I've got a hks bov as well as the stock one, is this problematic? Should i remove the stock one at least? And will I get any gains or problems if I remove both?
At this point I guess some sort of ecu or backup ecu, emanage blue seems the go? I don't want to hit a fuel cut, if that will be bad for the car..
Should I consider fuel pump and injectors or not?
And is there anything ellse I've missed?
I'm hoping for up to 250 at the wheels, but don't want to break my gearbox or stress out anything else on the car!
Friday, October 29, 2010 - 05:26 pm, by: Michael Larcombe(Lextcy_tas)
Digging up an old thread, but I'm installing a FMIC with a modified intercooler pipe with an HKS SSQV also. How do you block off the stock BOV? I hear turbosmart make a blanking plate but I'm yet to find it.
Friday, October 29, 2010 - 10:41 pm, by: Sandesh Welikala(Sandesh)
Soarers do not need turbo timers,Since they are both water & oil cooled. Only oil cooled ball bearing turbos need turbo timers so the seals don't perish.
Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 06:31 pm, by: Rob Rojo(Rob_tt)
I think it all comes down too how much power your aiming for. Stock power is around 130-150rwkw but 210-220rwkw can be achieved with minimal mods on a budget. the next 30-40rwkw (250-260rwkw) is where it gets expensive.
210-220rwkw can be had subject to the condition of your motor. FMIC $400-600 Cat Back Exhaust, 3inch Mandrel bent with hi flow cat $650-$750new or around $400 2nd hand. (price is for single system, twin system obviously more expensive but they do look better) Pod filter and Ducting $100 or so Manual Boost T $50.00 (electronic is better but T will do if your on a budget) Run as much boost as you can before it hits boost cut around 13-14.5psi. With this setup my car made 217.3rwkw.
With a shift kit and trans cooler you should run high 12's or low 13's.
After this point is where it gets expensive and very labour intensive so unless your doing the work yourself you will need deep pockets.
Dumps $450-$750 plus installation from $400-$700 Injectors (which aren't really needed until 250-260rwkw's upwards. Cheapest option is the stock 2J 440's which usually go for around $200.00 plus $100 for cleaning and $150-$200 installation. Cam gears (cheapies) $140 plus $200 installation Fuel Pump $200 plus around $80 installation. Electronic boost controller $200-$800 plus $100-$200 installation.
As you can see the budget can quickly get out of control if your not doing the work yourself. Before doing anything set yourself a target power and do it right the first time to reach your goal as there is nothing worse than having to spend money on doing the same job more than once.
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