Sunday, January 24, 2010 - 05:01 pm, by: James Wilson(Ser493)
Hi,
I'm hoping some one might be able to point me in the right direction. I am currently re assembling a soarer I purchased with a blown engine.
I did not remove the inlet manifold and I am having big difficulties trying to get it back togheter.
Problem 1
Two plugs at the front of the manifold. I know where the small spade goes but have no idea on the other...
Problem 2
I have an unknown plug near the starter.....again no idea..
Problem 3
coil pack plugs were missing when i picked it up, Which way do the wires go back. I have new plugs but I dont know which wire is which.
Problem 4
I assume the rubber rings pictured are supposed to be a locator for the radiator?? I think the wally that owned the car before me used the wrong radiator in it. The radiator seems that it is not tall enough (hope that makes sense). And the radiator i have would only sit on those rings. I would assume the correct radiator would have locating lugs??
Any help would be appreciated. Hopefully I can get these issues sorted. The car is done apart from these issues and it seems like it has taken an eternity. First stop once its finished will be to get engine bay cleaned too....really messy now
Monday, January 25, 2010 - 08:28 am, by: James Wilson(Ser493)
Thanks Blake I now have a diagram of locations and I am positive I have not plugged anything in around the locations shown. Now to go and try and plug them in.....looks like it's not going to be too easy with the manifold on.
Monday, January 25, 2010 - 08:35 am, by: James Wilson(Ser493)
I am now almost 100% sure the radiator is incorrect. The previous owner has had the wrong radiator fitted to the car. So looks like I will need a need radiator. Any suggestions??
Thursday, January 28, 2010 - 11:22 am, by: James Wilson(Ser493)
Right I think I might be getting somewhere now. I think the fuel pump may be cactus?? I can't hear it running and have tried the bridge for the fuel pump relay B+ to FP in diag plug but still no pump noise....any ideas as to other possibilities before I replace the pump? I was wondering if anything on the inlet manifold side would affect the fuel pump operation? Checked all the plugs again and they look ok??
Thursday, January 28, 2010 - 11:33 am, by: Aaron Casey(Blownminiturbo)
it will run but throw codes and engine light come up. the knock sensors are on the block just under where the intake manifold bolts on there is 2. one close to the front and one further towards the rear. they are roundish and just screw into the block
Thursday, January 28, 2010 - 12:09 pm, by: James Wilson(Ser493)
Thanks Aaron got those sorted but still no go?? Definitely fuel/ignition problem. Just going to check power at fuel pump now but still have no solid ideas at this point. Fuel pump is definitely not running and the check engine lamp stays on with key in on position.
Thursday, January 28, 2010 - 04:32 pm, by: James Wilson(Ser493)
I think i'm going to lose my s%!t. I have now got the car running however, The original problem from the very beginning still persists. When I purchased this car it was running on 5 and had quite obviously blown a head due to corrosion. Pulled the head off and it was very corroded replaced head with newer reconditioned head put the car back together and now i have it running it still is running on 5!
Here's what I know for sure:
It's definitely number 6 cylinder not firing it's definitely not a coil pack
I need to some how test the coil trigger wire and also test the injector on number 6
Thursday, January 28, 2010 - 05:53 pm, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
have u checked the compression of 6 and done a leakdown test? Ive heard the rear cylinders are the ones to take the most wear on the engine, its possible a ring may be cracked etc.
Try a leakdown test and check if there is excessive blow by.
Otherwise check that the injectors have a pulse signal and the coil pack is firing.
Other than that, its possible the injector is blocked or the windings in the injector have corroded.
Thursday, January 28, 2010 - 06:48 pm, by: James Wilson(Ser493)
yeah replaced coil pack done comp test done leak down test all good just not firing?? Had the head off only a couple of weeks ago and all the bores were excellent condition as well. checked for pulse on coil pack...seemed ok. Going to send it to my mates workshop his auto elec is going to check the wiring...
Thursday, January 28, 2010 - 08:40 pm, by: Aaron Casey(Blownminiturbo)
take the coil out and sit a plug in it and crank it. make sure you are getting a spark. also get a noid light to check you are getting an injector pulse. then take out injectors and have them cleaned and tested. or swap an injector over then if the miss changed cylinders you know its injector related. also see if you can borrow an ignitor module takes 5 seconds to swap over and then you can rule that out if still there. oh yeah and forgot to say the smaller connector in the first pic is for the oil pressure switch which is under the front knock sensor and slightly more forward
Thursday, January 28, 2010 - 09:49 pm, by: James Wilson(Ser493)
Yeah cheers for that Aaron, will test ignitor for sure. Really ran out of time this arvo to have a good investigate. Feeling better now that it starts though..
Wednesday, February 10, 2010 - 10:14 pm, by: James Wilson(Ser493)
Hi, Just a quick update. I'm hoping for some more help, I have now tested a few things and can confirm that the problem is spark related. I have no spark on number 6 however i do have 12v positive on one pin of the connector which I assume is normal. I assume the other wire going to the coil pack is a negative trigger?? I am no expert on all things electrical however I now think it must be either a faulty igniter or a faulty ECU or perhaps a broken trigger wire?? I am hoping I could get some suggestions on the easiest things to check first?
Igniter?? where is this and how hard is it to change? - any one in sa got one??
ECU - not too hard to change and test another...
broken wire...don't even want to think about this one....
Thursday, February 11, 2010 - 08:39 am, by: James Wilson(Ser493)
OK have been clued in on the ignition system, Is it more common having a faulty Ignitor or a faulty ecu. I think I will have to do a test from the ignitor to the coil pack and then from the ecu to the Ignitor? Any one else had trouble with this?
Thursday, February 11, 2010 - 09:36 am, by: Aaron Casey(Blownminiturbo)
test the wire first between the coil and the ignitor to see if you have a break, short to ground or power or a bad connector. then start checking the ecu and ignitor
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