Wednesday, March 17, 2010 - 10:09 am, by: James Wilson(Ser493)
Apparently Frank the rear cam sensor is common to be covered in oil and this may be an issue not sure if it will help but might be worth investigating.
Frank Csapo Tinkerer NSW Volvo 244GLE with 1JZ-GTE
Friday, March 26, 2010 - 06:13 pm, by: Frank Csapo(264ttr)
Chasing up O2 sensors, I removed mine to take a look at the part number. Stamped on my O2 sensor is:
TOYOTA 89465-22130 ND 065500-3461 7M
Where "ND" is the NipponDenso logo.
I can't find the Toyota number anywhere on the net, and both my local Toyota dealer and Castle Hill Toyota do not have listings for this part number. According to toyodiy.com, the Toyota part number for the O2 sensor I need is 89465-29435 which goes for about $300. I'm not prepared to pay this much for an O2 sensor.
Surfing the web I found a sensor from www.densoaftermarket.com, part number 234-3052. This one is for a '91 Supra with the 7M-GTE engine (whuch would explain the "7M" stamped on my current O2 sensor), but has the exact same plug, pins, flange and wire colours as the one that was in my car. The only difference is a slightly wider part exhaust-side of the flange. I could find no other Denso O2 sensors with the same plug I need. Online stores in the USA have the 234-3052 for around US $97. I am almost positive this O2 sensor will fit, but can anyone offer any thoughts? Attached are pics of my sensor, as well as the Denso sensor I found.
Hiflo Injection Sells Universal oxygen 3 wire heated oxygen sensor for around $40, it's a screw on type but you can buy a flange to attach it to, if I remember correctly it cost about $40 all up including flange, It is very easy to modify the flange if it doesn't fit, but it most likely will as the bolt holes are an oval shape allowing you to place the bolt where required depending on the car.
The Hiflo one comes with crimp on joiners attached, as well as heatshrink surrounds, so you can just solder it onto your wires. The wire colours that are the same are the heater, not polarity sensitive as it's a heater element so just find the wires the same colour off the loom and crimp them on, if you want to be sure just for the hell of it use a multimeter and measure the voltage, should get 12v on Ignition that is your heater.
Do not solder the wires, crimp them on.
If you can get the Denso sensor for around $90, That is a better option, you can modify the exhaust flange if required. Be sure to check for exhaust leaks after the sensor is installed
Once installed, get the car upto operating temperature, run at 2000RPM and measure the voltage of the Terminal OX from the diagnostic port to test.
Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 07:48 pm, by: Rob Rojo(Rob_tt)
Yes, we are aware of that Boris as stated in a previous post. Make sure you buy the correct sensor as they are all different, 1JZ is different to 2JZ etc.
As said I have genuine one here that is working regardless of what Boris says you can buy for $40.00 posted if it doesn't sort the problem and improve the fuel economy send it back and I will refund the money.
Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 09:21 pm, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
ive got a direct replacement part number for it at work. When i was searching around for a oem replacement i spent about an hour at a local efi/bosch supplier for our workshop.
We found a direct replacement under a US part number, think the brand was NTK, anyway 180 later and i had it in there car and running good, by the looks of it though my factory 02 sensor was still allright though as i didnt get an improvement in cruising economy and no change on the wideband at cruising
Allthough this may be due to my car having a record of only 60,000ks at the time haha
Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 02:19 pm, by: Frank Csapo(264ttr)
The 234-3050 is the universal sensor. I am looking for the 234-3052, which has the exact plug and wiring I need. I know I am being a bit anal about the plug, but I want to avoid splicing and crimping as much as possible.
I have found a Denso manufactured sensor, resold by Premier Auto Trade which has the plug I'm after, part number EGO-421. This can be had for about $190, which is only a few quid more than getting one sent from overseas.
Rob, thanks again for the offer mate but I'm gonna go a brand new sensor.
Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 01:56 pm, by: Robert Day(Lexsmaz)
Hi Frank,
You mentioned that you dont have a diagnostic light hooked up to read for codes, my 1jz Corona was the same, what i used to do was bridge the diagnostic port in the engine bay TE1 & E1 ( hopefully you still have that, its the small black electrical block with a flip cover which is usually mounted on the intake manifold plenum )
Once that is done then inside the car on the computer i used to use a LED Test light with which i would then apply 12 volts to the lead clip of the test light & then probe into the computer plug with the tip of the test light onto the ( fault code supply lighting wire ) i cant remember which wire color or position it was on the plug but a wiring diagram will show you & then just read out the codes which will flash off the test light ...
Hope that makes sense ..
Rob ..
Frank Csapo Tinkerer NSW Volvo 244GLE with 1JZ-GTE
Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 05:37 pm, by: Frank Csapo(264ttr)
Rob,
Yes mate I do have the diagnostics port in the engine bay, so I may just try your method, it seems easy enough. It will probably spit a whole bunch of ECT related codes at me too since I am using an A/T ECU with a manual box, and have a whole bunch of plugs just tucked away as they have no auto transmission to plug into. I might even be able to wire up a more permanent check engine light in the future for this very purpose.
Back to the O2 sensors, I got my new one today, finally. What a mess it was concerning part numbers and cross references, but the one I got is a direct fit sensor with the proper 3-pin plug. The part numbers I found are below, in case it can help anyone in the future. The sensor is manufactured by Denso, sold by Walker and distributed by Premier Auto Trade (PAT).
Denso number (as stamped on sensor): 5700 04C03 Walker: 250-23052 PAT: EG0-421
In terms of fitting, the golden part of the sensor adjacent to the flange on the exhaust side is just a tiny bit too wide to fit the exhaust hole. 30 seconds with a power drill with a grinding/file bit allowed the sensor to fit. As mentioned by others, a rat-tail file will do, but it was too awkward and took too long so I used the drill method. The sensor comes with a gasket as well. I also noticed the wiring harness is significantly longer than the OEM one I had, but better it be too long than too short. Pics are below.
Frank Csapo Tinkerer NSW Volvo 244GLE with 1JZ-GTE
Wednesday, June 02, 2010 - 10:53 pm, by: Frank Csapo(264ttr)
Not to dig up an old thread, but just wanted to give the community an update on how I went. After installing the new O2 sensor, the hesitation has almost completely gone from the car when it's cold. Just went through a tank of V-Power and got 290km out of it, which is already up from the 180km or so I was getting before. I imagine my range will improve after I change my spark plugs as they are all still fouled from when the engine was running far too rich. I am happy if I get over 300km to the tank.
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