Sunday, March 07, 2010 - 11:51 pm, by: Cameron James(Dinosoarer)
I just changed my engine for a low km jap import after the thrust bearings fell into the sump so I thought I would share the experience in hope that someone can benefit. I took some photos but not enough to make a comprehensive documentary. Please bear in mind this is a fairly complex job and should only be attempted with the right tools and equipment. There is also a possibility some items may have been left out so treat this as a guide, not godsend.
Firstly, with a trusty assistant, remove the bonnet hinges and struts and washer feed pipe – lift off bonnet and store in a safe place – rags under the corners if you are leaning it up against a wall
FRONT ENGINE BAY • Place drain pan under radiator drain plug and crack it – disconnect the thermo sensor plug right next to it while you are there • Remove the radiator cap and top radiator hose • Remove battery and battery tray • Disconnect the thermo fan wiring and unclip the thermo sensor harness from the radiator shroud • Unclip the two fasteners holding the lower fan shroud in place and remove shroud • Wind the drain plug back in and move the drain pan under the lower radiator hose & auto cooler lines • Remove lower radiator hose and auto cooler lines from radiator • Remove the two top radiator brackets and withdraw the radiator from the car • Loosen the 4 fan bolts, remove the serpentine belt and piss the fan off • Remove intercooler pipe from throttle body and the plastic crossover pipe that runs under the engine – stuff a clean rag into the cooler pipe to stop crap falling in.
RIGHT SIDE • Remove air inlet, turbo outlet pipes and airbox – stuff a clean rag into intercooler pipe to stop crap falling in • Unfasten auto cooler pipes under alternator then remove alternator • Remove the wiring plug from the alternator and sit it up where the airbox was • Disconnect wiring plug from power steering switch • Put drain pan under rack and loosen the nut fastening pressure banjo onto rack – draining power steering fluid. • Remove PS reservoir cap to speed the draining process up
CENTRE OF THE ENGINE • Remove throttle, cruise and auto cables from the throttle body • Tuck them away over the right side strut top
LEFT SIDE • Place drain pan under the power steering reservoir and disconnect the return line • Remove the power steering pump feed line from the pump & reservoir • Carefully remove the two vacuum lines to the power steering idle-up switch – they can be brittle – otherwise leave them connected and disconnect the other ends (plenum & throttle body) • Loosen and unscrew the power steering idle-up switch • Remove the high pressure line from the power steering pump • Remove 3 front bolts accessed thru power steering pulley and withdraw the power steering pump • Unclip the two wiring plugs at the base of the wiring junction box and unclip harness from the body • Unclip the battery cables from the body – unbolt the earth strap from the chassis • Unclip 3 plugs from the black box and unclip harness from body • Tuck wiring bundle up around the throttle body – rubber band holds them in place • Remove vacuum lines from charcoal canister and remove the canister itself • Remove vacuum line to heater flow diaphragm that runs to the plenum
AIRCON • If the system has little or no pressure, just unbolt the two nuts holding the inlet/outlet pipes to the pump – leave the pump on the engine • If the system has pressure and you wanna keep it that way, follow these next steps • Remove the wiring plug off the aircon pump body • Remove the lower side bolt and the upper side nut • Using torx socket remove the upper side stud – then drop the two front bolts. • The pump can now be rested on the bottom of the engine bay
LHS FLOOR • Remove side trim strip • Pull carpet away from under the glovebox • Remove 2 screws holding ECU cover in place and withdraw the cover • Unplug the ECU wiring harness • Pop the cover off under the glovebox • Unplug the 4 connectors on the left side junction box • Unplug the single connector on the heater unit
FIREWALL • Remove rubber heater hose from U-shaped steel pipe • Unbolt the earth strap • Remove brake booster vacuum hose • Remove vacuum line and wiring plug on the MAP sensor • Remove water feed hose from the side of the heater flow valve • Unbolt engine harness from firewall • Gently (but firmly) pull the ECU harness out of the firewall
UNDER THE CAR • Unbolt and remove the exhaust from the dump • Unbolt the power steering lines that runs under the sump • Unbolt the auto dipstick from the underside of the inlet manifold • Clamp off the high-pressure fuel line and unbolt the fuel banjo fitting that attaches under the manifold • Clamp off the fuel return hose and remove it from the manifold pipe • Pop the rubber cover off just behind the rear chassis brace and undo the 6 torque convertor bolts – turn the crank bolt to access the next one, and the next one, and the next one... • Remove the 4 bolts holding the bottom of the bellhousing to the block • Unbolt the two brackets securing the auto cooler lines to the block • Unbolt the auto cooler fittings at the gearbox and weave them out - make sure you have an M14 x1.25 bolt cleaned and ready to go to plug up the rear fitting as the fluid will pour out when the line comes off • Place a gearbox stand or jack under the transmission and drop the four crossmember bolts – this will allow you to tilt the engine back and access the bellhousing bolts and starter motor bolts. Leave one of the lower bolts in (finger-tight) just in case the gearbox shifts and tries to fall out! • While the engine & gearbox are tilted back, remove the gearbox wiring. There are 4 plugs and 3 bolts on the LHS and just one plug on the RHS. Make sure the harness is free. • Jack the gearbox back up and refit the 4 crossmember bolts again. • Remove the finger-tight bolt you left in 3 steps ago • Remove the 19mm engine mount nuts from each side of the alloy crossmember
REMOVAL • First, gather up all the LHS wiring harnesses and cable tie them together over the rocker cover – this will ensure they are all out of the way. • Do a quick check around all sides of the motor and make sure everything external has been detached • Put a trolley jack under the bellhousing to support it for when the engine detaches • Attach a decent chain to the two lifting hooks • Wheel in your engine crane / block & tackle and take the strain • When the engine mount studs have cleared the alloy crossmember, pump up the floor jack under the gearbox then shake the engine side to side so as to detach it from the gearbox. • Make sure the torque converter detaches as well or you will have a massive mess to clean up. • As the engine swings free, do a quick check around front, rear and both side just to make sure nothing is still attached • Jack it up, wheel it back and then drop it on the floor then slam down a frosty chocolate milk to celebrate
While the engine is out, take some time to degrease the engine bay – check for any worn parts that would otherwise be a nightmare to replace if the engine was in there. After a hit of degreaser and a blast with the Gernie, I went over all surfaces with Wax & Grease Remover – the engine bay has come up mint.
REFITTING Refitting is basically the reverse of the removal instructions but I have one tip that will save a lot of frustration and swearing... Get a roll of electrical tape and bind all of the harness plugs (the ones that go thru the firewall) into one long thin snake – keep it as thin as possible – this will allow you to stuff the harness back down the hole and pull it thru under the glovebox.
Tuesday, March 09, 2010 - 09:04 am, by: Cameron James(Dinosoarer)
I used hydrochloric acid mixed at 15:1 I cleaned them with degreaser and coarse steel wool first into the acid for a 15-20 mins. The reaction is quite violent - lots of foaming and fumes!
Problem is that the by-product of HC acid on aluminium is it generates aluminium chloride and it appears as a crusty white residue.
After the acid, the parts were rinsed thoroughly then back into the degreaser for a while. The parts came out sparkling clean and no residue.
Tuesday, March 09, 2010 - 03:53 pm, by: Cameron James(Dinosoarer)
I tried the mix at 20:1 to start with but it was just taking too long and im kinda impatient when it comes to things like this - I upped the ratio bit by bit until the reaction was sufficient.
It was interesting to see that all of the impurities that came out of the alloy (the ones that didnt dissolve) floated on top
I did try a small test piece with undiluted acid and damn it is vicious - instant yellow frothing!
Just make sure you use proper chemical handling gloves, eye protection and a respirator - this is not the sort of stuff you want in your face!
Tuesday, March 09, 2010 - 06:50 pm, by: Evan Kaio(Knave)
Cam, I did try a weaker solution(30:1), it did work ok, but yeah I did get a little impatient. I used a scotch brite and heavy gloves to clean the turbo piping. I will try the manifold on the weekend.
Previous
so I thought I would share the experience in hope that someone can benefit. I took some photos but not enough to make a comprehensive documentary. Please bear in mind this is a fairly complex job and should only be attempted with the right tools and equipment. There is also a possibility some items may have been left out so treat this as a guide, not godsend. 
