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Nathan Hlad
DieHard
NT
JZZ30 TT

Posts: 647
Reg: 09-2008

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Friday, March 26, 2010 - 09:04 pm, by:  Nathan Hlad (Jackpot) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hey all in the near future i am going to be getting a garrett gt3582r single turbo and dont know too much about the turbos themselves.
for example v-band or 4 bolt ??
and a/r - 1.06 or 0.82 ?
also what do these figures mean ????
sorry for all you turbo fiends who think this is a dumb question
Nathan Hlad
DieHard
NT
JZZ30 TT

Posts: 648
Reg: 09-2008

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Friday, March 26, 2010 - 09:21 pm, by:  Nathan Hlad (Jackpot) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

http://nozzs.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_13&products_id=47

has anyone heard anything about these manifolds ^^
they seem too good to be true ?
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
Active V8 and the Beast.

Posts: 2445
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, March 26, 2010 - 10:40 pm, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I know little about them myself, I just bought a car already done.

Since then it's been 2x new diffs, 1x new gearbox and now needs an engine. :-)

A/R is to do with the housing size, basically bigger number flows more, also lags more.

http://tinyurl.com/yhfrbos

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech102.html#b

Don't think there is much difference between v band or 4 bolt. v band is maybe a bit more fiddly to get lined up perfect and seal, 4 bolt can be a pain down the track if you ever need to remove the dump and they have seized in.
Scott Wilkes
Goo Roo
Tasmania
92 TT Factory Manual, 70 HG GTS Monaro

Posts: 1376
Reg: 10-2008

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Friday, March 26, 2010 - 11:27 pm, by:  Scott Wilkes (Scottywilkes) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i have a nozzs clear timing belt cover, and after 3 months its still clear as day 1 and awesome fitment and quality.

I would assume there manifolds are of the same quality, he was awesome to deal with as well.

btw he is situated in thailand so will have to be shipped from there, when i got a price it was about 100 USD, and the prices are in USD as well
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

Posts: 2021
Reg: 08-2005

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Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 07:52 am, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hey nathan with the 1j id recommend the .82 rear housing as you will hate turbo lag if you get the 1.06 rear housing. as dan said the smaller the number the quicker it will spool up but wont make as much total hp but you have an awesome midrange
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
Active V8 and the Beast.

Posts: 2446
Reg: 07-2005

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Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 11:39 am, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ultimately you need to be honest with yourself about your intended use of the car.

If you want a dyno queen/dedicated drag car that is a pig everywhere else, get the biggest housing you can get.

If your looking for a daily/weekend/occasional track car then don't kid your self about getting a bit more power. Driveability is what you want. The smaller housing will help with that.

A big number is good for bragging rights, area under the curve is what makes a fast car.
Nathan Hlad
DieHard
NT
JZZ30 TT

Posts: 650
Reg: 09-2008

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Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 08:09 pm, by:  Nathan Hlad (Jackpot) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

yeah cheers guys i was leaning towards the .82 anyway so you kind of pushed me over the line.
and with v-band and 4 bolt there is no compromise with either ??
Costa Tsimiklis
TryHard
Victoria
386.2 rwkw Soon T51R or GT4094 :-O

Posts: 455
Reg: 07-2008

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Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 01:34 pm, by:  Costa Tsimiklis (Driftshop) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You will need a T3 manifold for the GT35 - the manifold pictured is a T4 Manifold and will not be suitable.

For a bit more boggie and the ability to use a T4 manifold, I would go for a T04Z with a 0.70 or 0.8x split pulse exhaust housing. Good enough for 650-700 HP at the wheels and you should be able to get full boost by 4250-4500rpm, with boost build up from 2750. If you have an auto, you can match your converter to suit the peak boost rpm so it will take off, off the line.

Do consider that you will need to upgrade a lot of other parts and sub systems to use the full potential of the turbo. Fuel System, ECU, Cams, Manifold and Wastegate will all need to be upgraded if you are looking at pushing over 250rwkw with reliability. Then you have the transmission setup and you will need to either convert to manual with a Jim Berry clutch, or get a worked auto with a suitable stall converter, shift kit and either a 1.5 or 2nd stage internal setup to handle the torque and extra heat.

The dyno graph in my profile is off by around 1000rpm. When the turbo was running well it had 1000rpm more response as the turbo thrust bearing failed during that dyno session. This turbo is similar to a T04Z, albeit smaller, non bb and less efficient. My logging shows that in 4th I was getting full boost at around 4750. My redline was 8000rpm. Now off boost it was very similar to my TT stocky, but once it starts building boost and coming on 1-2 psi, everything gets very efficient and it screams to be revved out. Big singles feel laggier, due to their power delivery in one big rush, but a well sorted big single can trump a twin setup for efficiency and reliability as well as boost response without anti-lag. Not to mention they are cheaper and easier to install, maintain and overcome fabrication problems.

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