Monday, August 02, 2010 - 05:42 pm, by: Natasha D'Abreo(Natashad)
hey people, I did the diagnostic test today and it came up with EFI52, so i looked it up and says something about the knock sensor, anyone have ideas on how to get it fixed or what it could be relating to that? Thanks
Monday, August 02, 2010 - 08:03 pm, by: Chris Prak(Carizma)
Do an ECU reset, if it comes up again straight away, check the sensor plugs. The knock sensors are located beneath the inlet plenum. One in between cylinders 1 & 2 and the other at cylinder 5 above the starter motor. Both quite hard to see/reach without removing a few things.
If plugs are intact, replace the sensor. I'm told these shatter or something when they pick up a big knock.
Do you have aftermarket management or has it been tuned? Knock sensor will go off if it picks up ping from a bad tune. Bad timing and lack of fuel may be a factor.
I have the same problem. I have changed the sensor, and still the EFI52 is there. Does your car show the "engine electrical system" info as well?
The error code only shows when the sensor is broken, right? I mean, not when an actual knock accours? My check engine light has never shown, just the code, message and a rich mixture of fuel.
Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 12:39 am, by: Chris Prak(Carizma)
It will show the "Engine Electrical System" error whenever the is an electrical error (normally with sensors). This will sometimes cause the engine to run differently in a few ways, either the ECU retards timing or is made to run rich, thus losing power and operating at higher temperatures due to over-fueling. The error will be stored until reset and will return if it picks up a knock high enough to set it off again.
Alright Chris. My error message appears every time I start my car, but not until I´ve reach 2.500-3.000PRM. I don´t have to floor it, cause cruising also set off the warning message. Every time! The only EFI code is 52. I´ve reset the ECU probably 20 times by now, and no difference in delay or anything...?
If it is a actual knock, why in that low RPM range?
Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 06:20 pm, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
Ahh its not a skyline.
If you're getting error 52 a knock sensor input is missing to the ECU. This puts it into limp home mode under positive boost pressure so it's overfuelling and going maximum retard for knock control (i believe 7-8degrees retarded).
Replace the sensor .. or purchase a Greddy knock delete circuit and install to ground instead of the faulty knock signal wire.
Monday, August 09, 2010 - 06:44 pm, by: Natasha D'Abreo(Natashad)
My jap writing comes up when i reach about 1500rpm, and stays on the whole time driving, it dosnt come on when i start the car, only when it gets driven. It comes up with EFI 52 which is the knock sensor, and the jap writing is engine electrical system, we did try resetting the ECU and it still happened.
I realise that there are a SMALL chance that the KS i put in, was broken as well. Can I change the pins from both KS to the ECU, so #1 becomes #2, and #2 becomes #1? If so, the diagnostic code will be for KS2 instead, IF the actual sensor really is broken, right?
Is it possible to connect the working KS to both terminals in the ECU, splice it or so?
Yesterday I installed a totally new knock sensor, that I got from my local Toyota dealer. I installed it, and made a new cable all the way between the sensor and the ECU. I made it from a RCA audio-cable. I used the inner part of it, and soldered it properly. When I started the car, and went for a short ride the SAME f*cking error message appears!! I was gonna sell the car tomorrow, but now I can´t do that. I honestly just wanna lay down and cry!
Monday, April 27, 2015 - 06:45 pm, by: Brett Harrison(Bretto)
One Knock sensor signal can be split to feed into knock 1 + 2.
Most of the time the loom has been cut or altered with aftermarket ecu's and piggybacks causing issues. Standard wire is shielded to prevent electrical noise in the signal. You can re shield wire or run new wire, and can also run the shield to earth.
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