Sunday, January 16, 2011 - 09:56 am, by: Aaron Casey(Blownminiturbo)
ok what injectors are you running? are they the 380's? with the 1.5j would really need the 440's with standard ecu. also check your powers and earths to the motor and ecu. can you hear the fuel pump prime? what reg are you using? try get a noid light onto an injector connector see if you are getting signal. also try flash the codes from memory you bridge out te1 and e1 on the connector on the intake manifold then turrn the key to on then after a few seconds will flash any codes. may have a faulty sensor or even a bad wiring to a sensor
Sunday, January 16, 2011 - 10:18 am, by: Matt Newman(Soarersrock)
yep got 440's in there earths are in place and tight. im still running the std reg but cant here the the fuel pump. what is a noid light? and ill try the codes and let you know what i get
Sunday, January 16, 2011 - 11:28 am, by: Matt Newman(Soarersrock)
problem solved it spluttered into life some clown forgot to plug in the fuel sender lol. just 1 question left how do i adjust the idle? thanks for all the help guys
Sunday, January 16, 2011 - 01:07 pm, by: Austen Menze(Mercyfulfate)
Idle can't be "adjusted" as such. The ECU automatically controls the ISCV. But you can crack the throttle plate open slightly using the adjustment screw.
Sunday, January 16, 2011 - 08:38 pm, by: Matt Newman(Soarersrock)
i needed to bring it up to about 800 rpm because below that it coughs and wants to stall. but it seems its not my day as the oil level sensor has un bolted the lower part and go MIA in the sump so now im trying to get the lower tin off without taking the motor out what fun
Sunday, January 16, 2011 - 09:24 pm, by: Aaron Casey(Blownminiturbo)
ahh damn idle will eventually set itself up. the problem with adjusting the throttlebody is you will also need to adjust the tps so it doesnt think you have too much throttle and want to rev or adjust fuel map to compensate for thinking you have =your foot slightly on the pedal.
Monday, January 17, 2011 - 06:12 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Dunno about the 1JZ - but most engines its just a rotating rheostat attached to the throttle butterfly. You generally just loosen off a nut or a screw and then rotate it in the required direction.
Evan Kaio DieHard Beautiful sunny good @ rugby 'Canes' country '91 UZZ31. 92 TT
Monday, January 17, 2011 - 08:24 pm, by: Aaron Casey(Blownminiturbo)
ok now you need to be able to get a voltage reading. one wire will have a 5v signal other should be earth and other will be a signal return with varying voltage. i think from memory .5v is roughly 0% throttle and 3.7v is 100% (could vary per car) if you have an safc2 or neo or emanage or some other ecu you should be able to look through the settings and find a throttle position percentage so adjust it to zero percent and make sure it moves as soon as you move the pedal as you can have lower reading of 0% and realistically have the throttle at 10% so it idles up but then the ecu see's 0% so tries to cut the rpm.
Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 03:57 pm, by: Matt Newman(Soarersrock)
ok guys got the idle back to 600 rpm today but i have a new problem. i took the rad cap off to remove air from the system and put the heater on full bore but the temp gauge climbed to 2 notches over half way and there was no hot air. any one got an idea on this for me?
thanks matt
sorry forgot to mention that i have a 52mm ally rad and new thurmostat
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