Monday, March 14, 2011 - 02:19 pm, by: Darren Bauer(Dazmon)
Hi, has anyone ever done a step by step TT oil filter & change tute on here? I followed the V8 one and it was fairly different, it was a bit of a shambles so I'd like to know a better way for next time. I jacked up the wrong side of the car, spilt oil, struggled with the tight space for the filter etc, its nothing like a Holden V8, but then again nothing is in these cars... And should I have changed to a magnetic drain plug while i was at it?
Ben Lipman Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
4. Remove sump plug (14mm spanner from memory?). Allow oil to drain. Drink coffee.
5. If swapping oil filter (good idea each time, every second time as minimum), then reach down between engine and passenger guard to find the filter. It can be tricky to reach depending on what accessories your model has. I place a rag under the filter on the suspension components to catch oil. Undo filter by turning anticlockwise. If some Arnie wannabe has over tightened the filter you might need a filter wrench of some variety. Otherwise smash a screwdriver through the filter and turn it this way (be aware if you do this you are committed to changing filter, LOL)
6. Smear small amount of oil on the new filter ring and then spin onto side of block. Only tighten 1/4-1/2 a turn after it touches mounting face. (if it leaks you can always go another half turn, but if you go to far it will be bloody hard to take off next time)
7. By this stage the oil will have finished draining. Replace sump plug.
8. Refil engine. Should take between 4-4.5 litres.
9. Start up and check for leaks.
10. Get car off ramps, stands etc. Go wash coffee cup.
Note: you must follow all steps, generally in order. If you do not have the coffee, you will have nothing to do whilst oil is draining. And you will be grumpy all day.
The process can be helped by having everything handy, including extra rags. The oil will move around as it drains, first rushing towards drivers side, then dribbling back under sump towards passenger side. I use a proper oil change bucket (couple of bucks from any auto parts store) as it is wide enough to catch it all.
I'm serious about the coffee. If it is after dinner you can swap coffee for beer.
Costa Tsimiklis Goo Roo Victoria 386.2 rwkw the old T51S setup - New Setup HKS T51R SPL -Going for 450rwkw on Pump Gas!
Monday, March 14, 2011 - 04:36 pm, by: Costa Tsimiklis(Driftshop)
While you're at it, change the standard filter to a Drift Z418 replacement from Autobarn, which has a 14 or 17mm nut welded at the end of the filter for easy removal next time.
You will also need a good slip ring style oil filter wrench that is pretty taught and preferably flexible in the handle (folds down) so you can get a good wrench on the filter to take it off.
Sometimes it is easier to go from under the car by removing the intermediate plate that connects the front/rear subframes together (4 bolt plate) so ou can have extra hand room.
If you have the ABS unit + a whole heap of other crap in the way, it will truly ruin your day if your filter is seized and hard to get off. Extra coffee and beer required.
Monday, March 14, 2011 - 05:56 pm, by: Matt Newman(Soarersrock)
lol good work guys i was just about to suggest the drift filter aswell for the same reason Costa gave. makes life better as i have a gt-l with abs and lots of stuff that bites in that area.
Monday, March 14, 2011 - 09:28 pm, by: Darren Bauer(Dazmon)
Thanks Ben, that was a pretty good run down! But I have done many filters before and a few of your procedures would be considered normal but I still managed to have trouble with them. First, cannot drive up onto ramps, and I don't have wheel stands yet, and my trolley jack didn't raise it high enough to place ramps underneath. Off to a good start huh. Both the 14mm and the filter were on super tight, and its hard to manoeuvre the wrench too in there. I wanted to do it all from underneath but didn't trust the arrangement. And I'd had enough coffee. SO next time I'll get the better filter, and magnetic drain plug, and wheel stands, and work out a better way to catch the oil coming out of the filter...
Ben Lipman Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Monday, March 14, 2011 - 10:14 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
LOL!
I wouldn't say Drift is a better filter, it just has a nut welded on the end.
Yeah, definitely do not get under a car sitting on a trolley jack. You can rest the car down on it's chassis rail on bricks, wood etc if stands are not available. Otherwise drive the passenger side up onto some bricks, the gutter or something? (passenger side as the sump plug is on the drivers side)
I can't drive onto ramps either, so I use a piece of timber to create a gentler ramp for my ramp.
DOn't fret about struggling with the filter in the 1J. THey are hard to get good purchase on, especially with TRC etc. I moved mine to under the car next to the gearbox on the track car. DOn't even jack the car up to do the filter now. Just reach under and twist.
Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 06:06 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Magnetic drain plug is probably a waste of time & money. If you are getting magnetic shavings in the bottom of your engine, they are coming from something that shouldn't be wearing at all - so your engine is most likely foobared.
Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 07:48 am, by: Drew Rechner(Drew1jz)
The 1st time I serviced the car after purchase I removed the filter by hand from the top of the motor. Needless to say my arm was contort and covered in cut's by the end LoL.
After that my uncle installed a 4 post hoist in his shed which made our lives much easier ;)
Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 08:26 am, by: Adrian McGuire(Adro)
its still a prick of a job even with a hoist. the space was made for a shinny little jap arm to get in thier i think. the move kit is a great investment i think.
Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 09:19 am, by: Drew Rechner(Drew1jz)
Adrian McGuire wrote on Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 08:26 am:
its still a prick of a job even with a hoist. the space was made for a shinny little jap arm to get in thier i think. the move kit is a great investment i think.
My arms are huge and I have never had a problem under the hoist. Although I do not have the ABS so this probably makes my life easier.
Peter Nitschke Junk Filterer South Australia UZZ30 UZZ31
Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 12:29 pm, by: Rhys Salmon(1jzt04)
Ben Lipman wrote on Monday, March 14, 2011 - 04:13 pm:
Ben.. 100% correct mate but your confusing Coffee with Beer...and it should be after each step... if you want to drive after make sure you use light beer. However if you drink light beer you should not be working on cars
Ben Lipman Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 11:09 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Peter- not greatly, but if I had to be honest, then you really need to check the level after you get it off the ramps. I just drop 4L in and check.
I have never really looked at the position of the dip stick in the sump. If it is in the middle (front to rear) then the impact will be negligable. If it is at the front, you'll get a low reading, and at the back it'll read high.
The street car is a pov pack, I can do it from the top with no hassles, but the track car has the ABS etc and was a pain, so I moved it while plumbing the oil cooler.
Friday, March 18, 2011 - 09:54 am, by: Darren Bauer(Dazmon)
No-one checks oil while the car is on ramps or stands or anything like that do they? I'm like Ben, I just put 2/3 of the 5L bottle in then check again when off and add.
Previous
