Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 08:51 pm, by: Justin Prewett(Buzzbox)
I'm in the process of replacing my exhaust manifold gaskets as the rear one is leaking... sounds like a tractor..
In checking over everything before i start i noticed a few things broken and not connected..
After removing the air intake pipe and intercooler pipe i spotted these things.
Can someone help in advising if these parts are needed and what they are for..
1) some sort of valve --> it's broken..
2) some sort of sensor --> it's not connected..
Is there any suggestions on what else i should look out for in replacing the exhaust gaskets ? or other things i may need that i am not aware of when doing this ??
Monday, March 28, 2011 - 12:30 pm, by: Aaron Casey(Blownminiturbo)
them parts could be your leak noise. fix the bov valve and block up the exhaust sensor as looks sike someone has ran an aftermarket exhaust temp sensor and cut it off which will lead to a leak
Monday, March 28, 2011 - 12:41 pm, by: Justin Prewett(Buzzbox)
@Aaron I'll get a valve to fix that and see how it goes.
The exhaust sensor is secured in place. the wires coming off the end are not connected to anything but the sensor itself is secured in place.
I grabbed an old piece of hose and put that to my ear and went around until i could hear the spot that sounded the clearest which came from under the rear turbo manifold.
So i figured it's an exhaust manifold leak.. new gaskets.. I'll take another look.
Monday, March 28, 2011 - 09:43 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
sandwhiched stainless steel gaskets. thin but wont deteriorate, with high heat they become brittle and crack like a piece of slate. as aaron said, the pieces then eventually get forced out. and create a gap between surfaces.
Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 10:13 am, by: Justin Prewett(Buzzbox)
It appears the gaskets may have been removed and then put back on as there is some gasket glue around the outside..
I was told to use the hose and go around until you can hear where the noise is coming from.. Then that's the spot.. The noise comes from under the manifold on the rear housing.. Not much else around there that I think it could be.. So I was told it's best to change the gaskets, don't use gasket glue as the metal will compress and make a good seal.
Have to get a few other things then I'll give it a shot. Hopefully all will be good once it's done.
Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 10:29 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
Turbo's dont look factory , they look different , so do the dumps , could be me but looks non stock .
The Oil lines for the turbo normally feed into the bottom and back out the drain in the same pipe underneath the stock 1jz turbo's .
You will probably need to replace the oil Drain pipes if they are stock rubber ones as they get hard and perish upon removal . Also the bronze gaskets between the turbo and manifold will need replacing
Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 12:03 am, by: Aaron Casey(Blownminiturbo)
they are aftermarket braid oil and coolant lines so has been off for sure. just a question looks like you are running alot of t's for your boost lines are they for a boost controller?
tidy those hoses up, fix the leaks and wind the boost up. 300rwkw here you come! I would say you probably dont have the right gaskets on your ex manifold or a bolt or 2 are loose somewhere.
Also change that BOV, they leak when decent boost goes into them.
Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 08:52 am, by: Justin Prewett(Buzzbox)
@Christian - they are HKS T3G's... came with the car when i bought it and the extra lines are for the boost controller. (Which are normally cable tied up).
I still have to pull it all off to check. when i get the time.
What's the story with fitting another BOV ? what needs to be done ? can i just fit another brand BOV ? is there a guide on it ?
Thursday, April 07, 2011 - 02:50 pm, by: Christian Molenda(Christof)
Daniel, for a 1/4 mile run or 2 it should be ok. There may be some extra strain on the turbo with all the extra stress on it when the throttle butterfly snaps shut, however on the track it will be open for the full 400m. I would try it to see if you can improve your times, but would not suggest it for a long term solution.
Justin, you can get block off plates online that screw onto the intake to seal that up and the bov hooks up to the hose part. Keep in mind the opening from stock is small and can be ported out a fair but. This will make a new BOV more efficient. Also will only need one vaccum line then and can ditch that one way valve thats broken. as for a guide, im sure there will be a diagram on here somewhere.
Saturday, April 09, 2011 - 03:39 pm, by: Justin Prewett(Buzzbox)
Hi all...
Update... i'm at the tricky part..
Removed all the pipes to get to the turbo's and what i thought was a stuffed rear exhaust gasket may in fact be the gasket that sits between the turbo and the exhaust manifold adapter..
Take a look.. it seems as if half the gasket is gone. Any suggestions before i continue to remove the rest of this gear.. and if this gasket is stuffed.. where do i get one from ???
It's a HKS setup. Pic below.
Also, on the HKS wastegate setup there are 2 points to connect hoses to.. i have an aftermarket boost controller installed and the hoses on both are connected to the rear part of the wastegate.. what is the other hose connection point for ??? and should there be a block here if it's not being used ?
Its a normal T2 gasket that doesn't burnout if you get a leakage like the picture above and can be found at any turbo places around Melbourne. Thickness might be 1.3mm or 1.5mm