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  Soarer Central * Mechanical - TT * General Mechanical * Need help.. replacing exhaust manifold gasket.. checking items beforehand.. * Archive through April 10, 2011 Previous Previous    Next Next  

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Justin Prewett
Tinkerer
VIC
JZZ30

Posts: 25
Reg: 06-2009

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Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 08:51 pm, by:  Justin Prewett (Buzzbox) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'm in the process of replacing my exhaust manifold gaskets as the rear one is leaking... sounds like a tractor..

In checking over everything before i start i noticed a few things broken and not connected..

After removing the air intake pipe and intercooler pipe i spotted these things.

Can someone help in advising if these parts are needed and what they are for..

1) some sort of valve --> it's broken..

Upload


2) some sort of sensor --> it's not connected..

Upload


Is there any suggestions on what else i should look out for in replacing the exhaust gaskets ? or other things i may need that i am not aware of when doing this ??

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Justin.
Adrian McGuire
TryHard
Queensland
soarer 2.5 turbo

Posts: 207
Reg: 12-2010

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Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 08:57 pm, by:  Adrian McGuire (Adro) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I can't see the pics can anyone else?
Justin Prewett
Tinkerer
VIC
JZZ30

Posts: 26
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Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 09:07 pm, by:  Justin Prewett (Buzzbox) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The photos show up when i refresh the page..

Not sure what's going on with that.

Try these links to Flickr instead.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jp_publicphotos/5563947022/

and

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jp_publicphotos/5563946934/in/photostream/
Gary Poloskei
DieHard
A.C.T
Soarer JZZ30

Posts: 772
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Monday, March 28, 2011 - 09:51 am, by:  Gary Poloskei (Mikrucio) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

LMAO!

Dude the top pic is your Blow off valve bleeder

the bottom thing is not needed. the o2 sensor which is below that looks ok. just cut it off.
Justin Prewett
Tinkerer
VIC
JZZ30

Posts: 27
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Monday, March 28, 2011 - 12:20 pm, by:  Justin Prewett (Buzzbox) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks..

I'm just getting my head around all of this..
Whilst i understand the technical side and the basics on how it all works..

I'm not to familiar with the actual parts yet..
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

Posts: 2821
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Monday, March 28, 2011 - 12:30 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

them parts could be your leak noise.
fix the bov valve and block up the exhaust sensor as looks sike someone has ran an aftermarket exhaust temp sensor and cut it off which will lead to a leak
Justin Prewett
Tinkerer
VIC
JZZ30

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Monday, March 28, 2011 - 12:41 pm, by:  Justin Prewett (Buzzbox) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

@Aaron
I'll get a valve to fix that and see how it goes.

The exhaust sensor is secured in place. the wires coming off the end are not connected to anything but the sensor itself is secured in place.

I grabbed an old piece of hose and put that to my ear and went around until i could hear the spot that sounded the clearest which came from under the rear turbo manifold.

So i figured it's an exhaust manifold leak.. new gaskets.. I'll take another look.
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

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Monday, March 28, 2011 - 07:40 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

oh ok cool. may have cracked a gasket.
Chris Prak
DieHard
WA
JZZ30 Soarer - Twin Snails

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Monday, March 28, 2011 - 07:55 pm, by:  Chris Prak (Carizma) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thats some tricky oil/waterfeeds. Gaskets are metal, they shouldnt fail... should they?
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

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Monday, March 28, 2011 - 08:28 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

sometimes they overheat and crack. sometimes they crack in 2 places and the piece gets forced out from the pressure making an even larger hole
Walter Gillmore
DieHard
QLD
TT JZZ30

Posts: 970
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Monday, March 28, 2011 - 09:43 pm, by:  Walter Gillmore (Cl33pa) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

sandwhiched stainless steel gaskets. thin but wont deteriorate, with high heat they become brittle and crack like a piece of slate. as aaron said, the pieces then eventually get forced out. and create a gap between surfaces.
Justin Prewett
Tinkerer
VIC
JZZ30

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Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 10:13 am, by:  Justin Prewett (Buzzbox) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

It appears the gaskets may have been removed and then put back on as there is some gasket glue around the outside..

I was told to use the hose and go around until you can hear where the noise is coming from.. Then that's the spot.. The noise comes from under the manifold on the rear housing.. Not much else around there that I think it could be.. So I was told it's best to change the gaskets, don't use gasket glue as the metal will compress and make a good seal.

Have to get a few other things then I'll give it a shot.
Hopefully all will be good once it's done.
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 6186
Reg: 03-2006

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Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 10:29 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Turbo's dont look factory , they look different , so do the dumps , could be me but looks non stock .

The Oil lines for the turbo normally feed into the bottom and back out the drain in the same pipe underneath the stock 1jz turbo's .

You will probably need to replace the oil Drain pipes if they are stock rubber ones as they get hard and perish upon removal . Also the bronze gaskets between the turbo and manifold will need replacing :-)
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

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Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 10:31 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Also noticed someone has used bolts instead of the factory studs from the turbo to dumps .
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

Posts: 2830
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Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 12:03 am, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

they are aftermarket braid oil and coolant lines so has been off for sure.
just a question looks like you are running alot of t's for your boost lines are they for a boost controller?
Christian Molenda
Goo Roo
QLD
T

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Friday, April 01, 2011 - 03:28 pm, by:  Christian Molenda (Christof) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

HKS t3g's?

tidy those hoses up, fix the leaks and wind the boost up. 300rwkw here you come! I would say you probably dont have the right gaskets on your ex manifold or a bolt or 2 are loose somewhere.

Also change that BOV, they leak when decent boost goes into them.
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

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Friday, April 01, 2011 - 10:08 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey Christian , reckon you could go without a BOV for some 1/4 mile runs without any issues ?

Thinking of blocking mine off completely to see if it leaks and how much at the track . I have heard alot of people saying they leak over 16-17psi .
Justin Prewett
Tinkerer
VIC
JZZ30

Posts: 30
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Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 08:52 am, by:  Justin Prewett (Buzzbox) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

@Christian - they are HKS T3G's... came with the car when i bought it and the extra lines are for the boost controller. (Which are normally cable tied up).

I still have to pull it all off to check. when i get the time.

What's the story with fitting another BOV ?
what needs to be done ?
can i just fit another brand BOV ?
is there a guide on it ?

Thanks.
Christian Molenda
Goo Roo
QLD
T

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Thursday, April 07, 2011 - 02:50 pm, by:  Christian Molenda (Christof) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Daniel, for a 1/4 mile run or 2 it should be ok. There may be some extra strain on the turbo with all the extra stress on it when the throttle butterfly snaps shut, however on the track it will be open for the full 400m. I would try it to see if you can improve your times, but would not suggest it for a long term solution.

Justin, you can get block off plates online that screw onto the intake to seal that up and the bov hooks up to the hose part. Keep in mind the opening from stock is small and can be ported out a fair but. This will make a new BOV more efficient. Also will only need one vaccum line then and can ditch that one way valve thats broken. as for a guide, im sure there will be a diagram on here somewhere.
Justin Prewett
Tinkerer
VIC
JZZ30

Posts: 33
Reg: 06-2009

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Saturday, April 09, 2011 - 03:39 pm, by:  Justin Prewett (Buzzbox) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi all...

Update... i'm at the tricky part..

Removed all the pipes to get to the turbo's and what i thought was a stuffed rear exhaust gasket may in fact be the gasket that sits between the turbo and the exhaust manifold adapter..

Take a look.. it seems as if half the gasket is gone. Any suggestions before i continue to remove the rest of this gear.. and if this gasket is stuffed.. where do i get one from ???

It's a HKS setup. Pic below.


Upload


Also, on the HKS wastegate setup there are 2 points to connect hoses to.. i have an aftermarket boost controller installed and the hoses on both are connected to the rear part of the wastegate.. what is the other hose connection point for ??? and should there be a block here if it's not being used ?

See this image.

Upload
Joseph D'Agostino
TryHard
VIC
JZZ30

Posts: 129
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Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 12:50 pm, by:  Joseph D'Agostino (Mia) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Justin Prewett wrote on Saturday, April 09, 2011 - 03:39 pm:

. where do i get one from


Any turbo shop etc.. make sure you buy the extra thick gasket

Justin Prewett wrote on Saturday, April 09, 2011 - 03:39 pm:

HKS wastegate setup there are 2 points to connect hoses to



Leave the inner points on both actuators free
Justin Prewett
Tinkerer
VIC
JZZ30

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Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 07:33 pm, by:  Justin Prewett (Buzzbox) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

@Joseph - what type of gasket am i looking for ??
Is it a HKS flange gasket and are they metal ?

from what i have seen on the net, there are about 4 different types.

Thanks.
Joseph D'Agostino
TryHard
VIC
JZZ30

Posts: 130
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Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 07:54 pm, by:  Joseph D'Agostino (Mia) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Its a normal T2 gasket that doesn't burnout if you get a leakage like the picture above and can be found at any turbo places around Melbourne. Thickness might be 1.3mm or 1.5mm
Justin Prewett
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VIC
JZZ30

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Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 08:13 pm, by:  Justin Prewett (Buzzbox) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks.. T2 found it. $18.

All that pissing around for an $18 gasket..

Any suggestions on getting the turbos off ??
I have removed all the piping, now it's just the main turbo's connected to the engine.

I take it the 12 nuts have to come off (i can't get the turbo side nuts off).. any suggestions to make this as painless as possible ?
Joseph D'Agostino
TryHard
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JZZ30

Posts: 131
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Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 09:52 pm, by:  Joseph D'Agostino (Mia) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Separate your turbo from the exhaust manifold.. exhaust manifold doesn't need to be removed and be prepared to lose some skin.
Try some CRC first

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