Tuesday, August 02, 2011 - 11:34 pm, by: James Tims(Timzy)
Ben Lipman wrote on Saturday, July 30, 2011 - 07:15 pm:
Mate if that's the case I wonder if it's worth getting my twins steel wheeled and hi flowed...I was considering the single turbo route as well, but if I can keep the TT setup and get 300rwkw's out of it I'll be a happy uni student
Wednesday, August 03, 2011 - 07:22 am, by: Jeff Bedsor(Jeff_bedsor)
Mine aren't high flowed or steel wheeled, so with that done I would think 300kw would be possible...with all the other supporting mods. I was one of the first to open out the turbo inlet and outlet piping and do the exhaust manifolds, that's what makes the difference.
Wednesday, August 03, 2011 - 07:04 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
Conflicting opinions Jeff regarding the fact yours have been ported ,therefore ,highflowed . As was mentioned on Toymods some while back .
I dont really care , they are stock with stock wheels , so fixing up the HORRIBLE casting moulds of the manifold , and turbo housing inlets/outlets to me doesnt count as high flowed .
Goes to show the potential of these turbos if you match port all the pipework and open the wastegates out a little bit .
Jeff was running small 256 cams which i reckon suit the factory turbos or even highflowed ones perfectly ! No need for 264's , unless your chasing alot more headroom and going larger single .
People get hung up on 300rwkw for some reason , but if youhave a nice power fband making 250rwkw or more, thats plenty of punch for a street car , and have some fun at the track in my opinion
Wednesday, August 03, 2011 - 11:28 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
I couldn't give a f**k what the actual number is. The ONLY thing I care about is the performance gained on the track. Bathurst was won by a dude with a hundred horsepower tail dragger once. I constantly beat cars with double the horsepower on the circuit, not because I have any talent, or they lack it. Often the power delivery of 300-400kw cars is terrible for what we need on a circuit. If I could have the stock power/torque characteristics 50 or 100kw higher on the graph I'd be stoked. (STROKED? )
Depending on the attitude/intellect of the person enquiring about my car I'll either tell them it makes 100 or 1000 KW. Or I tell them the truth and that it is dead stock.
I hope to find the time to have a crack at the porting of the manifolds as well.
I should be able to get out on the track with some highflowed steel wheel turbos at the end of the year. I can then report back on how they go, probably as a straight swap and then later as part of a swap to aftermarket engine management/fuel delivery. Once the car is actually tuneable I am sure I'll be told the power figure for those who want that info as well. The number is unlikely to be spectacular as i need to be able to pull that power safely for upto 10 laps on a circuit, not for short drift/drag runs. I believe a circuit tune needs to be a lot tamer, with a safety margin inbuilt to cover hot days, heat soak, and so on.
I just need to stop crashing the car so I can afford to make these improvements.
Ben Lipman Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Wednesday, August 03, 2011 - 11:35 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Sorry, I didn't mean for that opening sentence to be so aggressive.
In the end for me I just cant afford to go to a single. For the record GT3076R is what I wanted to do. The reality of all the extra costs, counterbalanced with Mallala being my new local track, meant that going for a lower hp and initial cost option was a better choice for my track car. I no longer have a massive straight (Hidden Valley) where I could literally gain seconds on power alone. PLus higher HP would eventually lead to reliability issues not only in the engine bay, but down the drive line as well.
Thursday, August 04, 2011 - 05:00 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
if your stupid (like me) go for the triple turbo route twin vnt in stock position, dumping into a 3540 which pushes into the twin vnt's
the twin vnt's will work sweet down low and midrange. as soon as the vnt's pump out 15psi and wot is seen 3540 will push 10psi of air into the vnt's. since the vnt's are at 15psi under atmospheric pressure. the 10psi out of the 3540 going into the vnt's will allow them to produce much higher boost without the need to increase shaft speed at all.
Thursday, August 04, 2011 - 09:34 pm, by: Vincent Chan(Vincent191)
How about 1 turbo for each cylinder? I remember in the old days Honda had 1 carby for each cylinder in the S600 & the S800. The car was almost impossible to tune properly.
Saturday, August 06, 2011 - 04:46 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
If your needing to run water / meth with any turbo conversion , you have cheaped out on something along the way , and really should buy an Excel ... It aint supercharging !
Sunday, August 07, 2011 - 09:48 am, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
I meant water/meth is suited to supercharger setups where intercooling isnt an option .
If your going to run water / meth on a turbo setup , you must have cheaped out on something with the install .
People used to do that 20+ years ago before decent intercoolers could be bought . Nowadays you dont need water/meth .
Never said go supercharge an Excel. Just said if you want water/meth , stick to supercharging cars . And if your cheaping out on a turbo setup where you think you need water meth , then buy an excel and stick to not modifying cars .
Turbos make easier HP than superchargers due to efficiencies in intercoolers nowadays . So your not screwing the motor to the limits with really high intake temps where you can use water/meth .
From memory you had a supercharged V8 and are probably still thinking along those lines ? Different worold with turbos.
Sunday, August 07, 2011 - 05:10 pm, by: Robbie Rashleigh(2annoy)
I wouldnt run meth. Id go straight water injection though. Ive seen what it can do and i think it is a good mod that wont break the bank, making more power safely, mainly reducing intake temps so you can run higher boost, without detonation. So yes daniel is correct,if you have an engine that is well built with good supporting systems then its not needed, but heck ive thought about running water on my motor mainly because i dont know the condition of the engine. and i would be able to safely run more boost without the worry of having to get a new engine
Sunday, August 07, 2011 - 07:46 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
You are better off running it a bit richer to help lower intake temps . Ideally you just have to accept that your package has a limit and should be tuned within just that .
Any decent FMIC should reduce intake temps to within 10-20 degrees of Ambient temps .
If your suffering detonation issues , You should start looking at why instead of a band-aid solution such as water/meth injection ...
Valve stem seals, worn rings, valves not closing properly, Blow by , poor fuelling , incorrect timing , pushing a turbo out of its compressor limits , in-efficient intercooling , fuel types used , oil weights and much more .
Detonation isnt just caused purely by too much boost , many other factors can contribute . Hence why i personally would never touch it .
Monday, August 08, 2011 - 02:21 pm, by: Jeff Bedsor(Jeff_bedsor)
Daniel Clarke wrote on Sunday, August 07, 2011 - 07:46 pm:
You are better off running it a bit richer to help lower intake temps
Totally agree with Daniel, that's why my stock turbo's have lasted running 30 psi boost,I run about 10.5 AFR at full boost. Keeps it cool and makes good power.
Previous
Closed: New threads not accepted on this page
) 
