Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 02:39 pm, by: David Watt(David_w)
Did some rookie mechanic work on the weekend to swap the injectors on my JZZ30. To gain access we pulled the throttle assembly and top/front intercooler pipe. Swap went fine, chucked it all back on, and the bay fills with smoke and the garage filled with despair.
Basically...
a) have an exhaust leak for a while which has all of a sudden become quite bad, and is up near the dumps or turbos when I thought it was further down
b) idles like ••••• easy enough to adjust I just haven't done it yet, but am worried its not just at wrong RPM as it is lumpy as •••• and seems unstable. Seems fine with light throttle around the streets though.
c) Makes sweet all power. Feels like its labouring heavily at vaccuum levels, and sits on 0psi for a while before struggling to get up to ~5, like there's a huge boost leak somewhere
d) turbos seem fine no weird noises, data display from emanage blue seems to be showing stuff that my non-expert self thinks is normal given conditions and the points above. I believe I changed the EMB parameters for the larger injectors correctly.
Basically I'm looking at ideas on where to start. 1- lumpyness could be something that went wrong with the injector swap, doesnt explain boost issue
2- why did the boost issue all of a sudden happen now, the top IC pipe is a little ratty but went back on fine and visual inspection doesn't show any loose connection
3- exhaust leak, if up near the turbos, depending where it is could that be stopping one of them from spooling up properly? if so, why suddenly now?
4- driving around casually with light throttle, the car feels smooth and normal, just try to get up a hill with a bit firmer push on the pedal and it's almost like it operates WORSE than if you had just maintained a light but steady application. Kind of makes me think there's a bad re-installation of the throttle assembly
Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 02:59 pm, by: Michael Sinay(Mikey)
Perhaps something is not right with the injectors, maybe they are over-fuelling causing it to nearly flood, therefore poor idle, loss of power and smoke? Is the smoke black?
Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 03:08 pm, by: David Watt(David_w)
Michael Sinay wrote on Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 02:59 pm:
Is the smoke black?
Smoke is a light grey colour
Adrian McGuire wrote on Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 03:00 pm:
Did u plug the correct injector plug in same order ?
Thats actually a fair point, I didn't even make sure. As far as I can see there's not enough slack in the cabling to attach any on the wrong ones, though
Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 05:16 pm, by: Shane Haverkamp(Havabeer)
guess an easy solution is pull the injectors off one at a time. if the engine changes you know its working. idle stays the same same you know that one could be the culprit
Evan Kaio DieHard "Beautiful sunnny, (our Coach sacked most of our All Blacks) 'Canes' country '91 UZZ31. 92 TT
Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 07:28 pm, by: Aaron Casey(Blownminiturbo)
Map sensor plugs into the filter/dampner on the side of the manifold. Should be easy to notice. Any warnings on dash? Try do a code scan see if there is anything there that may help you. Possible faulty injectors, were they second hand? Were they cleaned and tested? Filters could be blocked. Make sure all vacuum lines are correct. Tps is connected and adjusted correctly No fuel leaks from o rings of injectors?
Dan McColl Goo Roo Victoria (The Nazi State) Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler
Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 07:32 pm, by: Dan McColl(Hoon)
First step is to double and then triple check EVERYTHING that you touched. Make sure that no wires were broken/damaged in the R&R process.
Also double check whatever changes you made in the EMB.
Were the injectors new?? If no were they cleaned and tested??
Make sure the vac line to the MAP sensor isn't split. Also check the other vac lines.
It's possible that one of the turbo's has dropped it's exhaust wheel, blocking the exhaust and causing the extra exhaust pressure to make the leak appear worse. This will also make it under-perform significantly.
Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 08:25 pm, by: Adrian McGuire(Adro)
Resetting the factory ecu is a 6 minute job. Open bonnet, take lid of fuse box, pull efi fuse. Wait 4-5 minutes. Plug it back in and start the car. Job done.
Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 08:33 pm, by: David Watt(David_w)
Adrian McGuire wrote on Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 08:25 pm:
Resetting the factory ecu is a 6 minute job. Open bonnet, take lid of fuse box, pull efi fuse. Wait 4-5 minutes. Plug it back in and start the car. Job done.
Yes I know, as I said I'll spend some time Thursday checking a few things before deciding to take it to hospital
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