Sunday, September 30, 2012 - 11:35 am, by: James Tims(Timzy)
Hi guys, A week ago I managed to put the car batt into reverse polarity a stupid mistake for not thinking and now its costing me. Basically I have blown the 120 amp fuse which I replaced and performed the fuel pump bypass with another ecu. It cranks but can't stay put and just dies out but if I hold the key to crank position it fires up sounding very rough, this is with the bypass in place but stops as soon as I let go of the key. Any suggestions, is my fuel ecu and fuel pump knackered??
Sunday, September 30, 2012 - 11:52 am, by: James Tims(Timzy)
Here is a video link with the fuel pump bypass ecu in place. The first time is with the key turned normally with nothing and the second time is with the key held onto crank position with my foot on the pedal! Could it be a sign that its not keeping spark??
Sunday, September 30, 2012 - 01:20 pm, by: Adrian McGuire(Adro)
You might have damaged your ecu. Open it up and look for obvious burn marks inside it. Also did you check all other fuses? Inside the car and the engine bay ?
Sunday, September 30, 2012 - 01:29 pm, by: James Tims(Timzy)
Yeah I did, checked all of the engine bay fuses and the one's inside. I'm thinking I've stuffed up the fuel pump ecu or the fuel pump itself seeing as when I plugged in a completely different ecu it still has the same issues.
Sunday, September 30, 2012 - 01:43 pm, by: James Tims(Timzy)
Out of curiosity, how would it fry the fuel pump when i put it into reverse polarity. It's looking more and more like that mate, not pumping enough fuel to the engine which causes it to not even properly start.
Sunday, September 30, 2012 - 01:56 pm, by: Adrian McGuire(Adro)
If you push power through the wrong way of most electrical items they don't like it. Something still doesn't sound right though get a multiple meter and check the power input to the fp ecu wiring voltage with the ignition on.
Sunday, September 30, 2012 - 03:19 pm, by: James Tims(Timzy)
It's now on route to my good friend (because he saves my soarer time and time again) my mechanic so once I get the verdict from him I'll post up the results. May as well upgrade the injectors and fuel pump while it's there!!! Still love the soarer but I need another car for a daily driver.
Thursday, October 11, 2012 - 06:56 pm, by: James Tims(Timzy)
Okay the engine now runs fine thanks to a replacement fuel pump but the ABS light is on display and the Sunroof and windows do not open, any suggestions??
Thursday, October 11, 2012 - 10:04 pm, by: James Tims(Timzy)
I'm starting to think it might be related to earthing if all of the fuses are working??? Like I may have earthed the terminal wrong on the battery or something along those lines. Anyway it's in my mechanics hands at the moment, everything else is running smoothly but just want those 2 problems fixed
Friday, October 12, 2012 - 03:20 pm, by: Shane Haverkamp(Havabeer)
a fuse is the circuit breaker??
bad circuit cause's to much voltage (or amps or ohms i dont really know) which causes resistance in the wires etc. this resistance causes heat, heat causes the fuse to melt and the circuit is broken.
i dont think you'll find any car has a home style "circuit breaker" aka a switchable one.
did you manage to check all the fuses, even the ones inside the car?
Friday, October 12, 2012 - 04:28 pm, by: Adrian McGuire(Adro)
last time i saw someone do this he ended up replacing every fuse in the foot panel before stuff started working again. some fuses looked fine but were toasted when he tested them.
Friday, October 12, 2012 - 09:22 pm, by: James Tims(Timzy)
After doing tons of research they do have a circuit breaker that's 30 AMPS, the fuses have been checked properly and the circuit breaker is located in the passenger side footwell in a junction box behind the harness. It's on the sc 300's, LS 400's and the Z20's so no doubt it's on the JZZ30 and the UZZ31 soarer's. That is the only thing failing the windows, sunroof and the abs light which may be a sensor however the windows work when powered off the circuit individually when the door trim is opened which means that something is stopping the power from going to the fuse. It's got to be a circuit breaker I can't see it any other way. Would bad earthing cause the ABS light to display???
Sunday, October 14, 2012 - 04:27 pm, by: James Tims(Timzy)
Fair enough Dave, the circuit breakers I'm referring to may very well be the fuses, just getting conflicting information from others forums.
Anyway so far so good turns out it must have been a fuse because now the passenger side window operates as does the sunroof but not the drivers side window, but here's the funny thing, the drivers side lock button works and when i wind the window down on the passenger side door it works but when i do that and press the up on the drivers side window it stops it from working but still can't make it wind up or down. So maybe a loose wire perhaps??
Monday, October 15, 2012 - 09:31 pm, by: James Tims(Timzy)
Dave are you referring to the wires that go into the main switch on the drivers side?? Could it be the those individual modules themselves are just stuffed up?
Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 12:01 am, by: Matt Newman(Soarersrock)
its not very hard mate but its even simpler if you have a multi metre that does continuity testing. as you unplug both ends of the loom and test one wire at a time till you find the one that fails and then you can find the break.
Thursday, October 18, 2012 - 09:04 pm, by: James Tims(Timzy)
All problems solved, turned out to be fuses but unfortunately faulty testing equipment. So the overall issues were a burnt out fuel pump and a lot of burnt out fuses, this is a result of reverse polarity but now everything is working as it should and I now have a walbro fuel pump and 440 injectors Thanks for your help everyone.
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