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  Soarer Central * Mechanical - TT * General Mechanical * Costa's 1.5JZ Adventures on a Budget + Mythbusters on the 1.5JZ Conversion! * Archive through November 04, 2010 Previous Previous    Next Next  

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Costa Tsimiklis
DieHard
Victoria
386.2 rwkw Soon T51R or GT4094 :-O

Posts: 973
Reg: 07-2008

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Tuesday, September 21, 2010 - 12:39 am, by:  Costa Tsimiklis (Driftshop) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey Guys,

I managed to get a cheap 2JZ GE that is in VGC in most ways and I decided to do my own 1.5J and get my head around the internet. bullsh.it that's on forums these days.

My goal is to document the conversion and come across problems with solutions with actual real info that people can use instead of bs.

So to kick this off, my current hands on research tells me that the following is needed for a successful 1.5JZ conversion on a GE block. GTE will be similar, with less work.

1JZ -> 1.5JZ conversion using a GE Block

GE vs GTE Facts:
Pistons are the same design, but different crown shape.
The top ring skirt is very similar in thickness to the GTE.
Rods are the same as GTE
Crank is the same as GTE
There are NO oil squirters and who needs them anyway? Plenty of RB30s with decent pistons running 1000+ HP with no squirters. Interesting in theory and in practice and if you can afford to install them, good, but not vital for a high HP drag build. They will help with 25 laps at a track, but for a street squirt and club day (5 laps) no squirters should be fine.


1.5J requirements - parts you need of the 1JZ
Fuel Damper Assembly for connection to your stock fuel rail and system in the soarer.
Complete 1JZ head and manifolds
1JZ OIL Filter Assembly with water cooling - Bolt straight in and you get that nifty water/oil cooler
1JZ Water Pump Assembly and rear housing
1JZ rear pipe works that goes from pump to under the manifold for turbo and oil/water cooler and inlet mainfold
1JZ Crank Pully - its all Steel and you dont get as much of the same problems with the 2JZ one splitting because its alloy/steel hybrid.
1JZ Lower Timing Belt Crank Sprocket - Need this for the REF signal for the ECU. The GE runs are distributor to get its crank signal
2JZGTE Oil Pump - it has the hall effect sensor provision the above toothed wheel. You can use your 1JZ sensor. This will also allow you to clear the height for the timing case - no ugly gaps etc.
2JZ Serpentine Belt Tensioner - 1JZ is smaller - Need 2JZ for accurate tension.
1JZ Engine Mounts L/R (soarer) as they are different to Supra.
1JZ Oil sender near dip stick and fuel dampener (4 bolt thing)
1JZ Knock sensors
*incomplete

1J head mod information for 2J.

The problem with the 1J head is that it has an offset OIL gallery inlet at Cylinder 6 factory. There is 3mm extra material cast into the block of the 1J to accommodate for this. The 2JZ does not have this extra 3mm and thus there may be issues with seal, as there is only 1mm sealing the block and 1J offset oil feed. Solution has been to weld the offset and drill an new hole and run a 2J gasket. I suppor this method as it is the correct way to do this.

Some have used 1J head gaskets with no mods, with success, but if it does get bent in install on that edge or if you miss with a tool during servicing and damage that protruding edge - you will get a major oil leak and can cook the head/motor from oil starvation. Pics below will show the detail I am talking about.


1JZ Meet 2JZ


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2J Extra Deck height

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1J - nearly flush with bell housing

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2J GE Water Pump

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1JZ Water Pump. Need Factory 2JZ Extension Pipe (OEM Toyota Part - ~$35)

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2JZ GE NO Water/OIL COOLER

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1JZ Water Oil Cooler - Bolts on!

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Knock Sensor (Cyl 2 & 5)

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Oil Level Sensor 2JZ GE

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Oil Level Sensor 1JZ

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Common Problem - Damaged Woodruff key for balance - Fix - Weld and Machine or recut a groove 180deg and re-mark balancer and weld hole. Cause - Backyarders not knowing how to tension up the balancer bolt. It MUST BE over 250 nm worth of torque. 323 nm is the factory manual spec. Super Cheap auto rattle guns - 80 NM at most. Apparently this happened in 10,000kms since the guy did the timing belt himself.

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Damaged Key

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2JZ GE Gasket on GE Bottom End, GE Oil Feed

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2JZ Oil Feed on Block

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1JZ Oil Feed - more material in the block for elongated feed
+++ jpeg +++ 326973 +++ Upload +++


1JZ Gasket on 2J Block - Notice the overhang from missing material?

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Overhang = bad

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Costa Tsimiklis
DieHard
Victoria
386.2 rwkw Soon T51R or GT4094 :-O

Posts: 974
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Tuesday, September 21, 2010 - 12:49 am, by:  Costa Tsimiklis (Driftshop) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Overhang = bad

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2JZ GE Gasket on 1JZ - clearly shows how much material is missing from the 2JZ block.

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2JZ head Oil Feed

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1JZ Head Oil Feed - Offset to block oil feed from factory!

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2JZ GE Combustion Chamber

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1JZ GTE Combustion Chamber Bigger valves, maybe more CC than GE.

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How to Kill a 1JZ - Never service it. The Aluminum RUSTED from galvanic corrosion, due to poor maintenance. Service your JZ and it will be fine! Dont service it - you will fu.ck it up like this one! This has got to be the worst case of head corrosion that I've seen. The rusted deposits in side the head is iron from the block.

The poor sod changed water pump, radiator, coolant and thermostat to solve the overheating issue..... problem is - engine is rusted through and cannot mechanically seal against the gasket - throw away head and get a reco one or 2nd hand 1JZ.

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Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

Posts: 5867
Reg: 10-2005

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Tuesday, September 21, 2010 - 08:06 am, by:  Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Great posts! Yes getting the balancer bolt torqued up at home is a real problem - my toque wrench only goes to 180N/M! In the end I put a 1 meter extension on a breaker bar and put most of my weight into it, as 300N/M is approx 80KG at 1 meter. Seems to have been OK so far (90,000k/m and then 20,000k/m since balancer rubber failed)
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

Posts: 2364
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Tuesday, September 21, 2010 - 09:42 am, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

great stuff costa looking forward to seeing posts and results. Remember to adjust the flux capacitor
Guy Moore
TryHard
QLD
mmm manual & lsd goodness

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Tuesday, September 21, 2010 - 09:44 am, by:  Guy Moore (Thesoarerguy) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That's gold costa

Just one quick question can you use the ge sump will that clear the mounts or do you re-use the 1j sump
Christian Somerville
DieHard
South Australia
UZZ31 V8 LTD

Posts: 938
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Tuesday, September 21, 2010 - 11:21 am, by:  Christian Somerville (Csomers) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Good stuff Costa!

If I'm not wrong the 2JZ-GE also has higher compression.
Mark Bryant
Tinkerer
tasmania
2jz na/t and tt

Posts: 37
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Tuesday, September 21, 2010 - 01:37 pm, by:  Mark Bryant (2jz_nat) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'm interested in this build!keep posting some picks up as you go

Guy Moore-i believe you could use the ge sump,but there is no oil drain.with my 2jz sump the oil drain was there with 2 blank holes for the bolts and blank hole for the drain hole.I made a thread in the 2 holes and drilled the blank drain hole.Then a t3 turbo oil drain flange is the same size as the oil drain on the 2jz sump.used this.

The 1jz sump fits and would eaiser as it has a oil drain already.

sorry to hijack your thread costa,im thinking about doing this my self soon.
Costa Tsimiklis
DieHard
Victoria
386.2 rwkw Soon T51R or GT4094 :-O

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Tuesday, September 21, 2010 - 05:14 pm, by:  Costa Tsimiklis (Driftshop) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Use 1JZ Sump and Pickup for turbo oil drain.
Oil turbo feed will need to be tapped from the filter/oil pressure switch. Some bundy tube will help with the routing of the lines.

Compression solved- Use a thicker gasket.

0.38mm head gasket thickness for 2JZ GE 10.0:1 compression

1.3mm head gasket thickness for 1JZ GTE 8.5:1

Some say running a 1.8mm or 2mm gasket will give you 8.5:1 on a 1.5JZ using a 2JZ GE block.

What's interesting, the 1JZ GTE uses a flat top piston, whereas the 2JZ GE is dished. I'll need to CC the pistons/deck to see the actual volume difference. If you were really game you could run 1JZ pistons in a 2JZ GE block. I may look into the viability of this as I will need to remove the crank to get the keyway recut so pistons will be removed to clean them up and remove the crud.
Walter Gillmore
DieHard
QLD
TT JZZ30

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Tuesday, September 21, 2010 - 05:23 pm, by:  Walter Gillmore (Cl33pa) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

how many k's are on the crank that your going to plug weld and recut the harmonic balancer keyway?? ive done plenty of keyways for rb engines and diesel cranks. never a jz one... yet. :-) does the jz have a crank driven oil pump such as the ones found on the rb's? if so i would dare say that the keyway for that if it exists will need to be done as well.
Mark Bryant
Tinkerer
tasmania
2jz na/t and tt

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Tuesday, September 21, 2010 - 05:44 pm, by:  Mark Bryant (2jz_nat) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I used the oil pressure sensor hole for my oil feed with a T piece.Another popular option is getting a union bolt for a is300 as it has a hole and thread for the sensor and just plug your oil feed in there.
the soarer,supra 2jzge has a union bolt but no hole for a sensor/oil feed.
Guy Moore
TryHard
QLD
mmm manual & lsd goodness

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Tuesday, September 21, 2010 - 06:22 pm, by:  Guy Moore (Thesoarerguy) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Costa there is a thread on toymods were they have measurements your chasing for the deck heights and compression ratio's with the difference in the thicker gaskets
Costa Tsimiklis
DieHard
Victoria
386.2 rwkw Soon T51R or GT4094 :-O

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Tuesday, September 21, 2010 - 09:14 pm, by:  Costa Tsimiklis (Driftshop) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Walter: 125kms. Engine is in VGC. Still has visible factory hone marks and NO ridge on the cylinder block. The crank was fu.cked due to a backyard mechanic using a super cheap auto rattle gun. Not enough torque + cyclic wear = chewed keyway in 10,000kms. Yep going to weld the hole, cut a new keyway 180deg on the other side and notch a new timing marker 180 deg on the balancer - this way the crank pully key is 100% strong again and no stuff ups :-)

How much would you charge for my crank to be recut? I'll supply a good pulley and key :-) Freight is going to hurt lol!

Guy: I've been looking for the thread but cant find it - any luck?

Mark: Cheers for the tip - this will save a lot of hassle and make it a breeze:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oil_sensor_mod/index.html



I will prepare a report/pdf to be published online when I am done so everyone can have the info at their fingertips with no BS.
Walter Gillmore
DieHard
QLD
TT JZZ30

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Tuesday, September 21, 2010 - 11:16 pm, by:  Walter Gillmore (Cl33pa) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

new workplace doesnt have a milling machine. so i cant do it sorry, but its a pretty basic job, just need and lpg or oxy for pre heating the crank before welding, and a heat blanket/ fire blanket to protect the rest of the crank and journals from spatter. let it cool on its own and a local machine shop can cut the keyway. shouldnt be anything ridiculous, price wise.

but what i used to do was really clean up the worn side of the keyway with a dremel, then get rid of all the oil by lettin the keyway soak in acetone or similar, and depending on the material of the crank either stick, mig or tig the worn side only, that way when it comes time to machine the keyway there is still the other face of the keyway to work off. saves money and risking getting the timing wrong by a few degrees. plus paying for the balancer to be re-notched and balanced.

cast iron cranks you'll need to use a stick welder with nickel rods.

cast steel cranks you can use mild steel mig wore, either in mig or tig.

and billet i prefer to tig.

takes a good hand to weld up just the one side of the keyway without flowing and ruining the other face. especially with cast iron.
James Buchan
DieHard
Vic
V8

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Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 12:41 am, by:  James Buchan (Jrbuch) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Useful info Costa. I've seen a 1.5JZ in a JZA70 on the dyno once. Put out a pretty incredible figure as it had a big single on it.
Matthew Bell
Tinkerer
Victoria
Soarer VVT-i

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Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 08:35 am, by:  Matthew Bell (Delxa) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

We really need a Wiki or content based repository for awesome articles like this once they are completed. The forum is awesome for discussion but sometimes you just want the details without reading 50 mil comments to get there.

On topic though, this is very, very interesting info, Costa and I for one will be following it quite keenly as you make progress through the build. Keep up the great work!
Gary Poloskei
DieHard
A.C.T
Soarer JZZ30 GT-TL

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Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 09:59 am, by:  Gary Poloskei (Mikrucio) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

There are already articles on the flow of the 2jz head vs the 1jz head. And its not a myth.
The 2jz does flow more. its not much more but it IS more.
Aaron Mead
Goo Roo
NT
Celsior 1UZ-FE Mines, JZZ30 1.5JZ-GTE To4z

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Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 03:24 pm, by:  Aaron Mead (Aaron) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Oil quirters=less heat in the piston crown. More boost or timing available.
Guy Moore
TryHard
QLD
mmm manual & lsd goodness

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Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 04:09 pm, by:  Guy Moore (Thesoarerguy) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

found it its called
compression ratio of hybrid jz engine costa

in toymods on page 7 of engine and driveline conversions

it has all measurements your chasing
Costa Tsimiklis
DieHard
Victoria
386.2 rwkw Soon T51R or GT4094 :-O

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Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 10:46 pm, by:  Costa Tsimiklis (Driftshop) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

2JZ head is better than the 1JZ head. More cam options and valve options from aftermarket suppliers and its a proven 1600HP head with the correct modificdations

The only reason to do a 1.5J is if you have an existing 1J setup and just want a bolt on bottom end. Its more about convenience vs performance :-)

Aaron: Totally agree there are benefits to it from an engineering stand point, but its not a deal breaker to making big power. Plenty of RB30s making 1200HP with no squirters that see more head and load + timing than a 600-700HP 1.5J using a GE block.

Guy, looking at it now Thanks :-) Link is:
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=9436

Interesting 3rd party info:
----------------------------------------
Head CC volumes:
1JZGTE=41.4 cc - need to be confirmed

2JZGE= 46 cc (alternate source that measured with a burette)

2JZGTE=47.8 cc - need to be confirmed

These are NOT EXACT measurements but are close. i dont have any micrometres at home so best i can do is verniers and straight edges etc.
These are meanurements for 1jz-gte and 2jz-gte

1JZ dome thickness ~7.9mm
2JZ dome thickness ~9.2mm

1JZ Piston
Above top ring thickness ~7.35mm
Between top ring and #2 ~4.45mm
Between 2nd and oil ring ~2.5mm

2JZ Piston
Above top ring thickness ~7.5mm
Between top ring and #2 ~4.5mm
Between 2nd and oil ring ~2.6mm

So it would seem the 2jz piston is going to be stronger on all fronts.
It also appears the 2jz piston has an actual machined finish on the top of the piston as opposed to the 1jz which appears to have casting marks on the top and not machine finished.
------------------------------

1JZ GTE vs 2JZ GTE Pistons

1JZ GTE Left 2JZ GTE Right

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2JZ GE

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2JZ GE

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2JZ GE

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2JZ GTE (TURBO) HUGE dish in comparison. Check out the shape and cutout depth.

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My hypothesis:
1JZ had a smaller head CC due to the 2.5L bottom end. 2JZ has a larger head CC due to its 3L bottom end, in both GE and GTE - THIS is a huge factor in the combustion process and swirl design. A 2JZ head will flow more based on a larger head CC as well in a real dynamic combustion cycle (not on a flow bench).

1JZ also have 4 quench zones as the chamber is not circular - its square. Check it out in the pics above. This gives more efficient combustion for such a small capacity engine and perhaps why it responses to more mods than an RB25DET by comparison.

So lets look into this a bit more. 1JZ has a flat top piston with de-shrouded valve cutouts (notches on edge of piston), a 1.3mm gasket and a smaller CC combustion chamber than a 2JZ setup. Giving a 8.5:1 compression ratio (factory listed).

The 2JZ GE Pisons are different to the 2jZ GTE pistons, but are a similar shape. The 2JZ GE pistons have less dish and run a 0.38mm gasket with a 44.4cc head volume to give 10:1 compression.

I used this calculator ( http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html) with my guesstimates to get the right headgasket thickness for 8.5:1 comp ratio on a 1.5JZ using a GE bottom end.

Measurements are in mm and are slightly tweaked to give 10:1 compresion ratio here and there for comparison based on data.

2JZ GE 10:1 comp ratio.
86 Enter Cylinder Bore Size
86 Enter Piston Stroke Length
87 Enter Head Gasket Bore Diameter
0.38 Enter Compressed Head Gasket Thickness
44.4 Enter Combustion Chamber Volume In CCs
-8 Enter Piston Dome Volume In CCs Negative For Dished Pistons (Use '-')
0.1524 Enter Piston Deck Clearance Negative If ABOVE Deck (Use '-') :

CR: 10:1

1.5JZ using 2JZ GE and thicker head gasket
86 Enter Cylinder Bore Size
86 Enter Piston Stroke Length
87 Enter Head Gasket Bore Diameter
2.5 Enter Compressed Head Gasket Thickness
41.2 Enter Combustion Chamber Volume In CCs
-8 Enter Piston Dome Volume In CCs Negative For Dished Pistons (Use '-')
0.1524 Enter Piston Deck Clearance Negative If ABOVE Deck (Use '-') :

CR: 9.21:1 with 1.8mm
CR: 9.06:1 with 2.0mm
CR: 8.7:1 with 2.5mm
CR: 8.35:1 with 3.0 mm

So a GE 1.5J is way differnt to a GTE 1.5J where you can get away with running a 1.6mm or 1.8mm gasket to bring you back down to 8.5:1 due to the deeper dished pistons.

Running a thicker gasket is not a great idea for low down power and fuel burn, but it will still make mega power and be drivable with the right turbo.
Costa Tsimiklis
DieHard
Victoria
386.2 rwkw Soon T51R or GT4094 :-O

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Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 11:00 pm, by:  Costa Tsimiklis (Driftshop) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Cometic make a 2.5mm gasket. US Prices:
2.5mm C4276-095 $199.84 Notes 87MM BORE
.095" 5-LAYER MLS GASKET

3.0mm C4276-120 $211.84 Notes 87MM BORE
.120" MLS GASKET


Buy from:
http://www.frsport.com/Cometic-C4276-098-Metal-Head-Gasket-2JZ-GTE-87mm-x--098-_p_16613.html
Total is around $250 usd shipped - bargain.


I'll probably run a 2.5mm gasket for this experiment and have a conservative timing map in the top end. If this was a dedicated E85 only car, I would run 9.0:1 compression ratio with a 2.0mm gasket!

Just too add, this is a SUPER BUDGET BUILD. I'm trying to keep it all under 1000-1500 for parts alone. I've had good success with budget experiments and I like to showcase that you do not need to spend $8,000 on a 2JZ bottom end combo to get some serious power with decent reliability.

Running a 2.5mm thick head gasket is very unorthodox from an engine building perspective as it does away with the squish/quench zones and theory, however, I am hoping that the 4 quench zones will compensate for this effect compared to a 2JZ what only has 2 and recuperate some of this effect with the smaller CC 1JZ head.

If you want to a great 1.5J, use a GTE bottom end, but you might as well use a whole 2JZGTE anyway as you will get better head flow and less screwing around, but this may cost you 2.5-3k just for the motor.

I am also contemplating re-using the 2JZ GE head bolts as they have not been re-torqued before and my research indicates that they can be re-used, but it is not recommended due to factory tolerances and variance amongst bolts. Running an ARP stud kit will cost around $250 but I do not think it is vital to do so.
Costa Tsimiklis
DieHard
Victoria
386.2 rwkw Soon T51R or GT4094 :-O

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Thursday, September 23, 2010 - 04:13 pm, by:  Costa Tsimiklis (Driftshop) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

2JZGE vs 1JZ GTE Valve Size

2JZ GE
Inlet - 33.5mm
Length: 98.70mm

Exhaust - 29mm
Length: 99.30mm


1JZ GTE - 32mm
Length: 97.60mm

Exhaust - 30mm
Length: 98.31mm

Hypothesis - There is enough room on the 1JZ head to fit The 2JZ GE 33.5mm valves. the 1mm can be ground off the 2JZ GE valves and then re-shimmed for the correct clearance.

All valve stem diameters are 5.94mm too!

Another interesting thought would be to check the buckets on the 2JZ and see if they fit the 1JZ. Maybe the buckets are 1mm undersized.


Pics etc will be uploaded later on tonight/tomorrow :-)
Costa Tsimiklis
Goo Roo
Victoria
386.2 rwkw Soon T51R or GT4094 :-O

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Friday, October 08, 2010 - 12:28 am, by:  Costa Tsimiklis (Driftshop) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Project is temp on hold for 2 weeks, but I've had a few good ideas and I'm working on the 1JZ and some custom fab in the mean time.

more to come :-O
Costa Tsimiklis
Goo Roo
Victoria
386.2 rwkw Soon T51R or GT4094 :-O

Posts: 1119
Reg: 07-2008

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Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 12:52 pm, by:  Costa Tsimiklis (Driftshop) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I will be working on this soon, just need to strip the 2JZ bottom end and get the crank out for machining then find a suitable 1JZ head for the mods :-)
David Henderson
TryHard
Nsw
TT

Posts: 240
Reg: 08-2007

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Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 09:05 pm, by:  David Henderson (Hendo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Great read, looking forward to more!
Costa Tsimiklis
Goo Roo
Victoria
386.2 rwkw Soon T51R or GT4094 :-O

Posts: 1132
Reg: 07-2008

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Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 03:02 pm, by:  Costa Tsimiklis (Driftshop) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

2JZ bottom end is stripped and crank is going to be redone :-)

More pics etc soon :-)

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