Monday, March 20, 2006 - 07:45 pm, by: Hanré Van Rensburg(Silent_knight)
Well I got the Soarer back from the Mechanics a couple of minutes ago and aparently he says that my Crank has a tiny bit of movement in it.
At the moment it's not that bad to be immediately concerned about it but it could develop into a bigger problem and luckily because the car is auto there isn't as much strain on it as a manual would put on it.
Now what I would like to know is what exactly causes this to happen? Can it be fixed by getting to it from the sump etc or would I have to take it out? How much movement can be allowed before it becomes a bigger problem?
Monday, March 20, 2006 - 08:02 pm, by: Emanuel Spinola(Manny)
Crank walk is apparently one of the JZs few weaknesses on poorly maintained 1JZ/2JZs or M/T engines fitted with extremely light flywheels or aftermarket underdrive solid crank pulleys.
Factory Specs are End Play Standard ....................... .020-.220 Wear Limit .................... .300 Runout .......................... .060
Thrust bearings are on the No 4 main cap which usually requires the sump to be removed.
Good practice when buying a used engine is to remove the sump, inspect and hopefully not find the bearings sitting in the sump's pan...
Monday, March 20, 2006 - 08:22 pm, by: Emanuel Spinola(Manny)
I haven't experienced this problem with any of my JZ engines, so I can't speak from experience, but I would hazard a guess that unless the thrust wear had worn through the mating surfaces or allowed crank/rod journals/bearings to wear excessively, the thrust bearings could just be replaced.
Another ALSC member recently encountered a similar issue with his TT auto engine but unfortunately in his case, it was beyond repair and has required a long motor swap.
Tuesday, March 21, 2006 - 05:51 am, by: Thads Cooke(Thadz)
This is what killed my last engine. After i did my manual conversion, I noticed a couple of strange things, straight away thought "crank endfloat", but when i asked around everyone said, "nah, that won't be it", and it didn't seem that bad when i checked it. After all, thrust problems are for Mk3 Cortinas and Austin Landcrabs etc, so i kept on driving it and then it started stalling when i pushed the clutch in. while i was trying to work out what was causing the stalling, the rear main seal suddenly dropped its bundle and left a pool of oil on my driveway. It soon became obvious what the problem was when i jacked it up got someone to push the clutch while i watched, the flywheel was hitting the back of the block, and had cut the rear main seal!! It would have been fixable, except I'd let it get so bad that the thrusts had actually dropped out, allowing the crank to hit EVERY single main cap, and grind the thrust bearing seating area of the block. Get it fixed as soon as you can, it'll cost you an engine otherwise!
Thursday, March 23, 2006 - 09:36 am, by: Hanré Van Rensburg(Silent_knight)
Matthew yea I thought it would be a manual issue aswell as my mechanic said the same thing. Manual puts allot more pressure on it than an auto would do.
I'll order parts from Toyota ASAP then and have a talk to my mechanic and see what's the soonest possible time he can schedule the Soarer in to get it all sorted out.
Hopefully the damage is only to the thrust bearings so far as the engine hasn't missed a beat yet. Going strong as ever so it must just be starting to wear out a little bit. Rather have it fixed ASAP than waiting for the inevitable and have it all blow up in my face!!
Monday, March 27, 2006 - 07:03 am, by: Hanré Van Rensburg(Silent_knight)
Peter I haven't felt any symptoms to this myself but my Mechanic said that when he pulled the crank pulley off to replace seals etc when he was chaning waterpump/cambelt/tensioner/seals etc that he could feel a wee bit of movement which there shouldn't be.
Aparently this has caused the crank pulley to scrape against something which basically confirms what he said otherwise it wouldn't be.
I'm taking the car in on Thurs/Fri again for a quick checkup on the hoist and then we'll go from there and replace bearings etc.
Saturday, April 01, 2006 - 10:36 am, by: Thads Cooke(Thadz)
Yah, I'd have been surprised if you could have gotten the sump cradel off in place. Don't worry though, Its not that hard taking the engine out, It all fits together really nicely and theres actually plenty of room around it to work. Main thing is to unplug the loom from the ecu then drag it all back out through the grommet in the firewall, and unplug it from around the fuse box, so the loom stays with the engine. The rest is easy as, big job I'll admit, but quite straightfoward.
Saturday, April 01, 2006 - 03:10 pm, by: Dean Carsen(Deano)
You can do it all on a hoist from underneath, no need to pull the engine out.As you said drop the crossmembers etc.We found the problem when changing a cam belt and it took the mechanic an hour to get to the trust bearings. That was on an auto TT.
Monday, April 24, 2006 - 06:04 am, by: Hanré Van Rensburg(Silent_knight)
Righto well we dropped the lot out and had a look this weekend and I am now having to put in a new crank as mine has started grinding away on itself.
Allot of hassle pulling crossmembers etc off just to find that out. So now this week we'll be taking the engine/tranny out to install the nice new polished crank that's going in and a few other little bits and bobs whilst she's out like the new stall converter.
Hopefully it'll all be going again by this coming weekend so I can start running in my new bearings.
I'll be so relieved once she's 100% fixed and going and reliable again...
PS. Here's a good tip for everyone out there that does not have a Torsen. Locked diff's are BAD...see what it did to me^^^
Monday, April 24, 2006 - 06:52 am, by: Hanré Van Rensburg(Silent_knight)
Yea Matthew I wasn't too happy when we found this out yesterday.
Luckily John has a spare crank which is going to the shop probably today and he's supplying all of the bearings etc aswell along with letting me use his garage for the work being done.
If all goes to plan she'll be running again by this coming weekend. Then the 1000k run in period will start hopefully the weekend after that.
Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 09:14 pm, by: Hanré Van Rensburg(Silent_knight)
Finally some good news for once!!
Got the car back tonight as it was finished at around 1030PM and it's got a nice new crank in with all new bearings etc.
I had a look at the other crank and it was pretty bad. It had all new grooves grinded into the sides. 2 of the old thrusts were lying in the sump and the other 2 were bent beyond recognition. Luckily nothing else was damaged.
Got the 3000rpm stally in aswell now so this coming week I'll be driving like a nana untill she's done around 1000k's to break the new bearings in and then off to the Dyno!!
Only 600$ to get the whole lot done aswell so I'm a very happy man tonight.
Monday, May 01, 2006 - 07:00 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Hanré Van Rensburg wrote on Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 09:14 pm:
Got the 3000rpm stally in aswell now so this coming week I'll be driving like a nana untill she's done around 1000k's to break the new bearings in and then off to the Dyno!!
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