Thursday, May 25, 2006 - 08:10 am, by: Hanré Van Rensburg(Silent_knight)
Hopefully someone here will be able to provide a little advice to help me figure out what exactly the problem with my car is at the moment.
Right firstly what I have at the moment is full 3" to twin 2.5" straight through exhaust, FMIC, POD Filter, Gizzmo FCD and GReddy Profec B spec II.
My problem is at the moment that when I put my foot down the car starts boosting as always but it then starts spluttering and popping and it doesn't want to boost anymore. It's almost like fuel cut but it's not as I've got the FCD in there and I know what fuel cut feels like and this is definately not it.
I had the car on the dyno about 2 weeks back and we couldn't get a printout as the car was doing this on the dyno aswell so we couldn't really rev it past about 4.5 -> 5K as it would start spitting and spluttering and not want to boost any further.
I have tried turning the profec b off so that it just runs stock boost but it is doing exactly the same thing.
One thing to note is when we put the exhaust on we couldn't bolt 1 of the 3 bolts on the Ypipe to the exhaust flange as it stripped and we broke 3 easy outs trying to get it out with no luck so we just stuck it back on with 3 gaskets and lots of goo as I'll be getting some dumps for it soon anyway.
Will that small leak coming from the Ypipe cause this sort of issue at all or is it something else?
Also on the profec I can't set the Gain setting below 5%. Is this the default that it is suppose to be or is there something wrong with it?
Thursday, May 25, 2006 - 10:41 am, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
WHat kind of spark plugs are you running? Even when my car was running the stock 11.5 psi with my Greddy Profec Boost controller off, My car would spit and pop a little under boost.
I took out the offending Crappy old NGK copper plugs, and replaced them with some NGK Iriudiums at 0.8mm gap. Problem solved.
WHat kind of FCD are you running? Alot of FCD's only lift the fuel cut value by a cpl of psi as thy intercept the voltage to the ecu for the fuel maps, much like the safc's do. Alot of people fit them thinking they should be gone all together, but they may only lift it from around the 14.5psi mark up to 16 psi. The Profec B spec 2 still does spike a fraction, take a look at my dyno graph in this section. Thats why i can only set mine at 13psi on full song. Anything more and Pop/ChineseRedwriting on dash,lol!
Only other thing could be coil packs. But you can check the condition of those when if you deicide to change your plugs. Alot of guys have said there is nothing wrong with running the NGK Copper plugs degapped, but they do say that they are only good for around 5,00 km's or so. Thats the only reason i went for iridiums, i dont wanna change the buggers every couple of months.
Thursday, May 25, 2006 - 11:05 am, by: Hanré Van Rensburg(Silent_knight)
Chris I didn't get a printout from the Dyno so not sure what the A/F was.
At the moment the stock boost is sitting around 12.5psi
On the profec I've set it all down to 0% so it just uses stock boost and don't increase it at all.
I've got NGK Iridium plugs in there at the moment. I can't recall what gap but they are about 20 to 25,000K's old.
I'll go check the coil packs aswell. Hopefully if it is spark then I'll be able to sort it with new plugs etc. What is the recommended gap for the plugs? .7 or .8mm?
Thanks for the help guys!!
PS. Daniel I'm using a Gizzmo FCD. Another friend of mine using the exact same unit as me has no problems with it. He hasn't had it cut again after raising the boost with this unit.
Thursday, May 25, 2006 - 11:57 am, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
Ok, that rules out the FCD then o.8mm Gap on iridiums is fine. You cannot regap them for fear of breaking the electrode. 0.8mm gap is used with iridiums on alot of big power 1 and 2J motors that i have been told of by workshops.
MAke sure you have the 0.8mm gap ones, as i know they also sell 1.1mm gap NGK Iridiums which are mostly used on Rb series engines, but can be bought for the Toyota engines also.
WHen i purchased my Plugs from the boys up at UAS, i was advised that the iridiums should last around the 25,000km mark. SO maybe yours may need changing. SOme people say they are a waste of money and change their copper ones at 5,00km intervals. But $3.50 for copper ones times 5 = 25,000km and $17.50 per plug equivelant to the $18 each for the iridiums which last 25,000km. Not to mention the iridiums have always shown to be better repsonsive and overall on a dyno.They work out to be the same price over a Kilometre based equation. Also i dont wanna be changing damn plugs evry oil change with how fragile the plastic connections on the coil packs can be. But thats just me .
Thursday, March 22, 2007 - 04:29 am, by: Paul Gatsby(Please)
I just bought a Soarer and am located in Canada. It is experiencing this exact same problem. I have just bought a Profec B Spec II boost controller with the hopes it would solve the problem - did not read this post prior to purchase. Rensburg, PLease let me know how you solved this problem.
Thursday, March 22, 2007 - 09:58 am, by: Paul Gatsby(Please)
Taking it all apart tomorrow. Should have some feedback then. Going to check the coil packs as well. I'll try to get some pics this weekend. Right now it's rather wet and I'm having difficulty keeping the wheels from spinning.
Sunday, March 25, 2007 - 09:38 am, by: Paul Gatsby(Please)
Alright, everything seems to be in good mechanical condition save for the electrics. It seems somewhere along the way the aftermarket, either standalone or piggy back, ECU was swapped in for the stock one. So despite the upgraded mechanics which are running soundly the stock ECU seems to interpret all of these upgrades as stressing the system resulting in what I interpret as fuel cut between 4000 – 5000rpm depending on the gear. So my options are to switch back to the stock turbo units, which will give me more boost and power due to them working with the current ECU; or, find an aftermarket ECU/piggy back system that can understand the new configuration. Ha ha, downgrade to the stock turbos, I know. But, Davey’s alternative is relatively pricey to me. So here are my questions. 1) Does all of the afore mentioned make sense, are other members running larger turbos off of a stock ECU and getting no fuel cut? 2) If they are what aftermarket mechanics have let them do this? 3) Where can I get a cheap ECU that will alleviate the fuel cut? 4) Is there such a thing as refurbished after market ECUs? 5) If I do go with a standalone ECU can I get an ECU that will result in a sequential turbo system such as in a 2JZ? 6) Conjecture has the first Profec unit as being faster or better in terms of processing speed – true? – this could be way off base 7) Right now a standalone ECU is looking to be around 2200 AUD. Is this on par? 8) Is it even worth installing the Greddy Profec B II boost controller? a. Will this alleviate the problem to some degree? i. Can I then set the Profec B II to a lower boost setting than what the stock ECU is sending now? I was reading on another thread that the stock setting for the profec B II is 14.5 psi, something I could not find mentioned in the manual. Yes I read it so no please do not say RTFM - My friend Manuel is great but not helping me at the moment.
It looks as though this thread is moving towards an ECU one. I have been looking at the old threads regarding ECUs but am having trouble finding several different ECU brands/alternatives and price points?
I know there are a lot of rookie questions here, if anyone can post up some helpful links, posts, or pages that I can research it would be much appreciated. PLease
Monday, March 26, 2007 - 11:47 pm, by: Scott Ferguson(Scott_ferguson)
Paul to get rid of the Fuel cut you can do several different things, you can get a FCD (fuel cut defender) direct from HKS or you can make your own as it is a very simple circuit.
This is a lot cheaper than a standalone or piggyback.
If you're interested in that just search and many threads will pop up.
Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 08:51 am, by: Paul Gatsby(Please)
Thank you Scott. I am just worried that my problem resembles our friend Rensburgs. Rensburg has a fuel cut defender and still seems to suffer from this problem.
Friday, April 06, 2007 - 05:43 am, by: Paul Gatsby(Please)
I figured it out. Installed the HKS FCD, Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller, and new plugs. Same problem occurred. It turned out it was one of the actuators on the HKS turbos. I now need to find an actuator for a T3G HKS setup that is 14 years old. haha. I am having a bit of trouble. Anyone have a dead T3G setup with a functional actuator or know where to find one.
Friday, April 06, 2007 - 06:48 am, by: Andrew Hawkes(Ttsleeper)
i'm having the same problem with my stock turbos and upgraded blitz access ecu.....is it the actuators, or the ecu controlling the actuators that is bad?? i was just gonna buy a used ecu and hope it fixed it!!
Friday, April 06, 2007 - 03:42 pm, by: Mustafa Akgul(Muzzy)
i had same problem sometimes would boost fine then it would splutter and fart around 3000 - 4500 rpm.my problem was one of the coilpacks had died.untill then i tried everything new plugs this that and the other untill i started changing the coilpacks one by one did i find the problem.
the coil packs are really getting old and are prone to cracking near the boots and the top bits also from tightening the screws to tight.
we are not that lucky as the nissan boys as you can only get genuine replacement coils and they are not cheap.
ther used to be an old thread in the ALSC archives about this.
Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 02:11 am, by: Dale Holan(Xtrax)
I believe I may be experiencing the same problem.
Recent FCD install, turned up the boost to 15psi, drive's fine most of the time but when I go to WOT I get a sputtering in mid RPMs and then it pulls strong at high RPM. Just changed to the BKR7E plugs capped to .75mm didn't fix the problem.
Previous
o.8mm Gap on iridiums is fine. You cannot regap them for fear of breaking the electrode. 0.8mm gap is used with iridiums on alot of big power 1 and 2J motors that i have been told of by workshops. 
to Soarer Central Paul, great to se some more Canadians coming aboard! 
