Tuesday, August 30, 2005 - 07:43 pm, by: Emanuel Spinola(Manny)
Troy Tappenden wrote on Tuesday, August 30, 2005 - 10:01 am:
2 or 3 of the coil packs had cracks in the plastic on the legs that go down to the spark plug. Is this worth worrying about? ie Does this mean that there is going to be a problem inside the plastic casing?
Cracks aren't a good sign - likely to be the cause of breaking down when they arc under high load/boost. Grab yourself a set of used coilpacks and swap them out. New ones are just shy of $200 each but Jeff has had a set/6 for less than that before.
Wednesday, August 31, 2005 - 09:06 am, by: Troy Tappenden(Moredhel)
Yep, sorry Adam, I doubt there is anything wrong with the head, just the rocker covers were loose.
Manny, I think you are right as well. Possibly something inside the coil pack extensions is damaged. I would prefer to buy some new ones rather than second hand ones. Time to talk to Jeff by the looks of it.
Cheers everyone, I will let you know how it goes, but I won't be able to afford new coil packs for about 3 weeks.
Also, Manny, I think I saw in your previous prolfile on ALSC that you were using an HKS CDI Amplifier? Was that you? If it was, was it hard to install? I don't know much about them, but I know I have some big plans for this car and I would like to have a really good ignition system, so maybe I could get one when I change the coil packs. Overkill for now, I know, but I will need it later down the track...
Wednesday, August 31, 2005 - 05:59 pm, by: Emanuel Spinola(Manny)
Troy Yep, I run a HKS Twin Power DLI, CDI ignition amplifier. Simple to wire in - 8 easy wires to ignitor in engine bay. Fitting it will destroy already dodgy coils - I fitted mine with 6 brand new coils at the same time... ouch at the $1600!
Wednesday, August 31, 2005 - 11:07 pm, by: Troy Tappenden(Moredhel)
$1600 just for the amplifier, or $1600 for amplifier and the new coils?
I might start looking around..
Nengun, Taka Kaira or Greenline should have them I suppose. $1600 I can afford. Did you notice a big difference, or does it just allow you to put more boost etc through without blowing out the spark?
Wednesday, August 31, 2005 - 11:40 pm, by: Troy Tappenden(Moredhel)
Just found some of them: HKS Twin Power Type DLI 43,313 Yen ($518) (Without freight and other costs of course) so I suppose that answers my question as to if it was $1600 by itself or not
Taka Kaira were a little more expensive at 50,000 Yen ($598.77)
Nengun have HKS Twin Powers for $579.95 but are out of stock at the moment.
Greenline also have SARD injectors for $103.00 each. Would these ones be the ones I need for my car? And will I need the resistor as I saw in another thread on ALSC? SARD 540cc Injector 63560 (Injectors)¥8,663 Side feed, High Impedence. Twin hole type. Not suitable for VVTi models.
Or would these ones be better? Nengun: Sard 530cc Injectors with 4 hole spray, Top Feed High Impedance for Toyota Soarer 1JZ-GTE. $686.63 for 6 injectors I would imagine that 4 hole is better than 2 hole ones? But I have been wrong before
Might as well get a bigger fuel pump while I am at it. What is a good one that will be able to keep up with 320 KW at the wheels (Roughly what I will be aiming at)? Also, if I upgrade the injectors and fuel pump, will I need to upgrade the Fuel pressure regulator? And if so, what will I need?
Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 12:52 pm, by: Luke Nieuwhof(Luke_nieuwhof)
Troy,
Yeah the timing is a bit archaeic up there. You probably find what most affected your time is that the ET timer started from when the light went green and not necessarily when your car left the line like it would at a proper drag strip or on a g-tech. ie at most tracks reaction time isn't included in ET but at this one it is.
You'll have to come down to the Plex one day and give Euge a shot, he has similar mods to you and has run 13.5.
Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 01:48 pm, by: Troy Tappenden(Moredhel)
I'v had 2 interviews for a job in Perth and the guy was supposed to get back to me yesterday, but didn't. If I get it, you will definitely see me at the plex from time to time!!
Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 08:38 pm, by: Emanuel Spinola(Manny)
Troy $1600 was for the DLI and new coil packs. Feel stronger throughout midrange, allows full gap size to be retained at any boosts level I've run and obviously got rid of misfiring/surging from poor spark previously for more power. No experience with the 530cc SARDs - I've run the 650cc SARD and now 800cc SARD units which are the same impedance as stock, $600-700 landed off Yahoo. Number of holes in the injector pintle isn't really relevant. A drop-in replacement Walbro 255lph fuel pump is plenty for your power goals and only about $200 off eBay. My factory fuel pressure regular was working just fine at 22psi/327rwkw, so I wouldn't worry about replacing it.
Friday, September 02, 2005 - 08:55 am, by: Troy Tappenden(Moredhel)
All very good news Manny, thanks!
With the injectors, is there anything in particular I need to look at? Do I need to know the exact impedance (i.e. 2 ohms or whatever) or do I just need to order top feed, "High Impedance" injectors?
You say you ran 650cc injectors? Do you still have them? If so, are you willing to sell them? Ha ha ha...
Monday, September 05, 2005 - 11:19 am, by: Troy Tappenden(Moredhel)
Luke, I got that job in Perth!! I will be moving there in about 1-2 months as soon as they can get a replacement for me and I can train them.
Can't wait to get to the plex and put down some times. Hmm, Soarer cruises!!
G-Teched the car on the weekend. The car is running pretty well now, just missing through gears, so when I get home I am going to check the oil level in the gear box, maybe even flush it and put in new stuff just to make sure. Also I will do an ECU reset and reset the ECU for the auto box. Hopefully that will fix it. Car still ran a 13.92, on 0.9 bar boost, so I am pretty happy with that, considering it is not changing gears properly and the car has an open diff, so I couldn't stall it up a real lot.
The car is doing some strange things though with the boost. My friend who is a whizz on AVC-R's tried to help me set up my boost controller on the weekend, and we ended up giving up because it doesn't seem to be controlling the boost at all high in the revs and with higher boost.
We weren't able to control the boost to 0.8 bar on low boost, it just kept going up to about 0.94 bar, with the solenoid duty cycle on self learn, it still kept overshooting, and then creeping up rather than staying at 0.8 bar. Also, high boost, with 90% duty cycle on the solenoid is only hitting about 0.90 bar when I am trying to get it to hit 1.00 bar. Nothing seems to be getting it to work properly. Running off the wastegate, the boost acts almost exactly the same. Low in the RPM, boost comes on harder and faster with the AVC-R controlling the boost, rather than off the wastegate, but up high in the RPM, with full boost, the AVC-R cannot control the wastegates. I am starting to think that there is something wrong with my turbo's. As Muzzy said, the duty cycle shouldn't be anywhere near as high as it is, and I should be able to create 1.00 bar of boost without any problems.
We were thinking about taking off the tube for the wastegate actuators, so that they stay closed all the time, and doing some VERY careful testing, slowly to see if it will create 1.0 bar of boost without the wastegate actuators. Obviously this is dangerous unless you take the boost and RPM up slowly and carefully, but I need to know if my turbo's are on their way out. If they are, I will have to start saving for a 3037, and soon...
Thursday, September 08, 2005 - 09:31 am, by: Troy Tappenden(Moredhel)
Had a look a the gearbox fluid level yesterday afternoon. It seems that it is extremely high.
The car had been sitting for a day or so, so it was cold. I pulled the dipstick out and cleaned it, then dipped it back in again, and the fluid level was about 2 inches higher than the hot mark (And as we know, the hot mark is about an inch higher than the cold mark.) So I took it for a drive, got it really hot, then parked it, took the dipstick out and cleaned it, again, the dipped it back in, and the fluid level was still about 2 inches higher than the hot mark. I though JESUS! The previous owner must have just filled this thing up until it couldn't take any more!
So I thought I might as well flush the whole lot out and start again.
Did an ECU reset on the ECU and Gearbox ECU. Seems to have helped with the missing during gear changes, but not completely. Obviously the massively overflowed gearbox might have something to do with this... ECU sounds like it is retarding the timing too much through gear changes, so I will do the oil, and then see how it goes with another ECU reset.
Thursday, September 08, 2005 - 02:49 pm, by: Troy Tappenden(Moredhel)
I hope I am there before then, because there is a street race (Legal of course) on the 16th. I will start a thread with the info I have about it.
I sort of doubt I will be there by then though. I have to wait until someone is hired to replace me, then I have to train them. Chances of me being in Perth in 5 weeks is pretty slim. Mining companies work pretty slowly usually...
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