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Paul Brockbank
DieHard
WA
Soarer TT

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Friday, September 15, 2006 - 04:21 pm, by: Paul Brockbank (Brockas)

I'm auto as well.

Fair enough about efficiency range though, didn't realise 17psi was that far out of it.

Simon Triantafillou
DieHard
NSW
Soarer Turbo

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Friday, September 15, 2006 - 05:05 pm, by: Simon Triantafillou (Soarer)

Back to back runs of auto/manual pre and post conversion have been done by a few members on here and there was less than 5kW of difference. Don't kid yourself and think that the auto saps up a considerable amount of power compared to a manual. Proven on several occasions not to be true between A340E and R154 gearboxes.

Marc Vipond
TryHard
Queensland
Soarer TT JZZ30

Posts: 155
Reg: 05-2006

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Friday, September 15, 2006 - 05:14 pm, by: Marc Vipond (04awe)

Hmm my Turbo Conversion has cost me a bucket load in parts so far i will remove and put on all the new components just need someone to tune it on a dyno.

GT35R 1.06 AR $1500
Manifold $300
TiAL 44mm Wstegate $500
Turbosmart T-Reg Pro $125
Walbro 500hp Fuel Pump $120
800cc Injectors $550
Predator Intercooler and Radiator $2500
B&M fan cooled oil cooler $350
M&V auto stage 2 Rebuild $2600
Greddy E-manage Ultimate $800
Exhaust system $3000
Oil and water lines $200
Gaskets $100
Uni filter $80
New coil packs $600
MSD $400
Apexi Boost Controller $300
Greddy BOV $170
Plus a whole heap of other little niggly things i'm sure

STILL TO PURCHASE
HKS or JUN 264 cams $1000
JUN cam gears $400
Dyno tuning of the system $600 (conservative guess)

The bill will blow out before you know it so just make sure you're ready for it

My car will be on the road hopefully by Christmas, I want 500hp at the rears @ around 24psi whether i get there or not is another story!!!

Aaron Mead
DieHard
NT
TT

Posts: 580
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Friday, September 15, 2006 - 09:35 pm, by: Aaron Mead (Aaron)

Zoom had a good article recently about stoichiometric tuning and wota/r's at full load, and the resulting temp increases vs fuel use. Was very interesting, I think it was about the head guy at Nizpro (Simon Gishus?) and the Zoom guy. Good reading.

Im holding off on the turbo purchase until the sm4 is in and running.

I got the Autronic! I've only hugged it twice, it sleeps under the bed with me.....

Drew Hiron
TryHard
Queensland
Soarer TT

Posts: 129
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Friday, September 15, 2006 - 11:13 pm, by: Drew Hiron (Frag)

Marc : •••• i hope thats Titanium for that money!

Drew Hiron
TryHard
Queensland
Soarer TT

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Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 08:27 am, by: Drew Hiron (Frag)

lol, exhaust i'm talking about.

Aaron Mead
DieHard
NT
TT

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Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 11:24 am, by: Aaron Mead (Aaron)

Anyone bothered with a surge tank setup? Im considering the track days....anyone know how well the factory tank is baffled?

Simon Triantafillou
DieHard
NSW
Soarer Turbo

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Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 12:02 pm, by: Simon Triantafillou (Soarer)

Surge tank only in extreme situations. I'm putting 380kW+ to the ground and still don't need one. Using a sinlge Walbro in tank pump. The fuel tank has a recess in the bottom which contains the fuel pump, and all fuel sits in there as it's the lowest point. You'd be hard pressed getting it out of there with any hard cornering or acceleration.

Daniel Clarke
DieHard
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 569
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Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 12:30 pm, by: Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain)

I guess thats because the Soarer Fuel tanks are STand up ones... Where as in most other vehicles, it is qhite flate and not alot of height. Because the soarer tanks are quite slim and it is the hieght for which the most of the fuel is carried in, Even hard cornering wouldnt effect it too much.

Although, Jeff SMith had fuel surge problems at WSID running his car over the 1/4 mile.. BUT he did only have 7L left in it... Damn gumby,lol

So with curcuit stuff, i guess once you getting close to 10 litres left, you may have surge issues. BUT you still have a whole 68 litres left to use before you hit that.

Marc Vipond
TryHard
Queensland
Soarer TT JZZ30

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Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 02:46 pm, by: Marc Vipond (04awe)

Nah not quite titanium but full custom dump pipe, 3" mandrel bent dual system with a super high flow cat and monster 8" mufflers going into 3" tips extremely quiet exhaust that's super high flowing

don't ever underestimate the power that can be gained by a proper non restrictive exhaust system. Your run of the mill under $1000 exhaust system is ok for some but i'm chasing big HP so I was willing to spend the money

Drew Hiron
TryHard
Queensland
Soarer TT

Posts: 131
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Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 04:54 pm, by: Drew Hiron (Frag)

ahh ok i see. So its a high horse power BUT quiet in operation! Well in that case it probably is worth that much

Paul Brockbank
DieHard
WA
Soarer TT

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Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 05:33 pm, by: Paul Brockbank (Brockas)

Seriously 3k isn't that bad for a turbo-back exhaust, especially when you break it down.

Cat-back in stainless - $1200
High Flow Cat - $350
Front pipe in stainless - $700
Dumps - $450

Now you're looking at a fair bit of labour to install the dumps as well, say about $300.

In total thats 3k, which is exactly what I spent.

Paul Brockbank
DieHard
WA
Soarer TT

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Monday, October 09, 2006 - 04:09 pm, by: Paul Brockbank (Brockas)

Aaron, my GT35R went on yesterday, it is getting all the custom work done in the next week and a half. Hopefully be back on the road sometime next week.

I'll update this thread with pics etc:
http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages/287/103143.html?1160363678

Jason kropiniski
Tinkerer
Alberta
TT

Posts: 16
Reg: 06-2006

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Wednesday, October 11, 2006 - 06:15 am, by: Jason kropiniski (Raceready68)

I am just finishing up my single turbo swap so far its cost me.

Percision PT67BB Ceramic coated $1600
Manifold Ceramic coated $500
Tial 44 $350
Greddy type rs bov $350

I was lucky my car came with engine management and the fuel system upgraded.

my buddies is almost done my down pipe. Then I have to get my oil line finished up.

My turbos good to 780hp and his full boost at 2800-3000

Marc Vipond
TryHard
Queensland
JZZ30 GT35R

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Wednesday, October 11, 2006 - 09:18 am, by: Marc Vipond (04awe)

Hmm I'm dubious about that power figure/spool rate! What are the specs on that turbo? And where the hell did you get tial 44mm wastegate for $350? Must be a fake for that price!

Maurice Diggler
TryHard
Victoria
TT

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Wednesday, October 11, 2006 - 11:14 am, by: Maurice Diggler (Mau_rice)

Marc, perhaps thats in Canadian dollars?

Chris Davey
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QLD
Corona

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Wednesday, October 11, 2006 - 12:28 pm, by: Chris Davey (Chris_davey)

Marc: the GT35R's that people use are only 61mm comp wheels. This fella has a 67mm which if it doesn't have a tiny turbine should make plenty of power. I think the boost threshold is a bit optimistic though.

There was a guy on sf.com using this turbo on a 1jz and he thought it was too laggy so went to a 1.5jz setup. Heaps of other work done at the same time though so no back to back testing possible.

Depending on your definition of full boost I would think that it would make 20psi by around 4500rpm+ depending on turbine a/r's.

Cihan Aday
Goo Roo
218rwkw @ 16psi :-)

JZZ30

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Wednesday, October 11, 2006 - 03:35 pm, by: Cihan Aday (Cihan)

4th gear on a dyno it'll make 20psi at 3500rpm

Chris, did you know that running less than optimal timing before boost can help the turbo spool faster?
Think about it like this, you trade off some light boost and pre-boost power by igniting the spark later, letting higher pressure gas rush towards the turbine.

Chris Davey
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Corona

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Wednesday, October 11, 2006 - 03:50 pm, by: Chris Davey (Chris_davey)

Sure did but I am a bit scared of doing it as I don't want to burn the exhaust valves and also they say it can put a lot of stress on bush bearing turbos.

I have a 2 step feature in my ecu that allows you to add fuel and adjust timing at a certain rpm with the button on.

Would rather get a converter that suits the turbo though.

Paul Brockbank
DieHard
WA
Soarer TT

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Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 01:38 am, by: Paul Brockbank (Brockas)

Cihan Aday wrote on Wednesday, October 11, 2006 - 03:35 pm:
Chris, did you know that running less than optimal timing before boost can help the turbo spool faster?
Think about it like this, you trade off some light boost and pre-boost power by igniting the spark later, letting higher pressure gas rush towards the turbine.

Isn't this very similar to the Antilag system like what the M800 uses? Alter the ignition timing so that the spark ignites the gasses on their way out of the cylinder and towards the turbo with greater velocity?

I definitely wouldn't recommend this for bush bearing turbos. Without the extra cooling provided by the water lines surely this would destroy a turbo?
I know a mate of mine, Rob, running antilag regularly at the strip, I'm pretty sure he's on his 3rd turbo now...

Marc Vipond
TryHard
Queensland
JZZ30 GT35R

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Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 08:09 am, by: Marc Vipond (04awe)

I understand his compressor wheel is bigger and should therefore make more power however for his to make more power and spool up way quicker than mine is a load of BULLSH#T! Unless his compressor housing has been drilled and even then full boost by 2800-3000rpm would be awesome for a 2.5L engine! You do the math something doesn't add up by my calculations. Unless of course he considers 5psi to be full boost!

Chris Davey
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QLD
Corona

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Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 08:58 am, by: Chris Davey (Chris_davey)

Marc: I was agreeing with you

Paul: I am not sure if it was to do with cooling or actual force on the bearings? Either way, too risky for me. Can't afford to be replacing turbos all the time.

Cihan Aday
Goo Roo
218rwkw @ 16psi :-)

JZZ30

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Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 09:48 am, by: Cihan Aday (Cihan)

Nah, not talking about antilag setups etc. Just talking about not advancing the timing an extra 3-5 degrees like most of us do because it feels that extra bit responsive. Fine it maybe increasing the the volumetric effciency of the engine at that RPM, but with larger turbo setups it could be creating extra lag. I noticed that my twins are louder on coldstart running the stock timing map for example. If you accelerate in a linear fashion, say 20% throttle, when the engines just started you'll feel the ecu adding timing in surges. Timing above idle is pulled to heat the CAT faster.

Maybe im tripping, but i believe adding the 3-5 degrees that i do at lower loads makes a distinct difference to turbo whine - it reduces it. I can barely hear the turbos after coldstart and my exhaust system is factory quiet.

Ben you notice anything?

Shane Crichton
Tinkerer
NSW
Cressida Turbo

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Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 12:25 pm, by: Shane Crichton (1jz747)

Simon Triantafillou wrote on Friday, September 15, 2006 - 05:05 pm:
Back to back runs of auto/manual pre and post conversion have been done by a few members on here and there was less than 5kW of difference. Don't kid yourself and think that the auto saps up a considerable amount of power compared to a manual. Proven on several occasions not to be true between A340E and R154 gearboxes.

simon my real world experiences dont follow that. when i finally got around to wiring up the lock up clutch i picked up 40rwhp just by locking up the clutch in the gearbox, which would make it more comparable to a r154. there will always be a fair amount of difference as the convertor is always slipping.

with out the lock up activated it made 401 with it locked up it made 440, which then it was comparable to other 1jz's with same turbo and injectors intercooler and exhaust.

another back up to this my highest ever dyno reading was 496 rwhp. put 3445 pounds and 134.7 trap speed into a moroso calculator or and type of horsepower calculator and it will tell you 629 ish rwhp.

i know of other jz powered cars that weight the same as i do running within 1 mph of my trap speed, those cars i talk of are manual.

but hey, believe what you want. that just my real world experiences