Author |
Message |
Ali Yazici
Tinkerer Victoria 4.0GT Limited Soarer V8
Posts: 41 Reg: 08-2006
| Hey fellas After extensive search on "coolant" and "radiator" I would first of all like to point out that this site would be nothing if it werent for Mark Paddick and Peter Nitschke. The two most knowledged people i have ever encountered. Moving along and getting onto the problem, after close to 2 hours of searching and reading through forums, some of being in relevance to my problem and others ammusing me in my time of despair (such as the e-fan VS clutch fan forums and the quantum physics lol) i still cant seem to be able to find an answer to my problem. Maybe I cant read or understand diagrams properly, but i do belive i changed my coolant to the way described on http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages/37/83009.html?1154800993 and its not my first time doing this, i have had 2 supras prior to my beautiful soarer. This is my problem The first time i had changed the coolant, i hadnt read about the whole coolant factors on the forums, so i put in the green stuff instead of Nolac Red Coolant which going by what a lot of people have said in the previous forums, is not a big deal. Now thats really trippy, as i recall my Supra taking in about 9 litres of mix From recollection, although i couldnt find it again, I'm preety sure the V8's take 11 litres of mix 1. I unscrewed the tap, undid the cap, unscrewed the bolt on the engine, let the whole system flush out with a garden hose shoved down the bolt hole on the engine, let it empty, screwed the tap back on again, filled through the bolt and before i finished the 5 litre coolant it started to overfill!!! i topped it up from the reservoir and a little bit of water (maybe 250ml) and thats it!!! i started the car, turned on the heater, and nothing, water levels wouldn't drop, and the car was actually running fine, until recently i decided to do a change as i had put in the green stuff I did exactly what i did last time, except this time i put in red coolant and exactly the same thing happened. It got full at 4.5 litres. Ran the heater and all and same, water levels wouldn't go down so i assumed to be full. Drove to work and on my way to work, what do you know......SMOKE coming out from under the bonnet. Pulled the car over, reservoir had lost coolant, so i topped up with water luckily i was right next to a servo. Drove back from work, almost home again smoke from under the bonnet!!!! Can some one tell me what the hell is happening here??? Car is meant to take at least 10 litres of mix, yet gets full on 4.5 litres??? Now i have smoke coming out from under the bonnet.... I think i may have cooked my engine... Any help would be greatly appreciated |
Brett Moloney
TryHard Queensland UZZ31
Posts: 330 Reg: 07-2005
| If you did not run the car to operating temperature the thermostat would not have opened preventing you from filling system completely. What was your temperature reading? Not sure about the smoke though. |
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer South Australia GT4.0 V8
Posts: 6666 Reg: 11-2004
| Ali, I hope there isn't severe damage. The cooling system holds 10.8 litres according to the US manual, however you won't get that much in with the common method as the engine block isn't drained completely. There is a drain tap on the block, but it's awkward to get at and I don't personally know of anyone that has used it. So the block can be holding a few litres before you start - which is also why concentrate is better than premix. http://soarercentral.com/cgi-bin/sc-forum/show.cgi?tpc=51875&post=158453#POST158453 Thinking more about it, when the engine is off, the heater valve is shut (vacuum operated) so it is important to run the engine a bit with the heater switched on and check the level in the plastic reservoir as air bubbles can still come out. It may also be worth just loosening off the bolt with the engine running to see if any more bubbles come out of there too. Don't take it right out or you may lose coolant everywhere. Ben and I were messing with my system a couple of weeks ago when we were investigating a leak (top tank had split) and we got froth from loosening the bolt then eventually just coolant as the air escaped. It may also be a cracked top tank, it's getting pretty common for Soarers now, the tanks have a limited life span. If so, as a temporary measure, undo the radiator cap to the 1st position. I drove around in very hot weather for a week like that with no problems, the big radiator still kept things cool, but as the system didn't build pressure, it didn't blow all the coolant out of the crack. I wouldn't suggest anything more than mild driving however. |
Ali Yazici
Tinkerer Victoria 4.0GT Limited Soarer V8
Posts: 42 Reg: 08-2006
| thanks fellas i really appreciate it... i hadnt't actually thought about running the car to full operating temperature, i think ill try that next with my new refresh. One other thing, because the last two times has been nothing but coolant and very little water, is there any chance i may have blocked the radiator from too much concentrate??? |
Damian Ware
TryHard Victoria UZZ32
Posts: 389 Reg: 10-2005
| PM sent, I might be able to help you. |
Leon Wright
TryHard WA V8 UZZ31
Posts: 351 Reg: 08-2006
| I'd be making sure the block was completely flushed, I made a mistake last year when I was rushing around before Christmas and didn't clean out my heater core properly. I had changed from the green stuff to Toyota red, it mixed and congealed. One professional flush of the radiator (80% Blocked, 15 months old) and good flush in the back yard of the holiday flat where I was staying and it survived a 400k drive on a 43 degree day. Hope that's useful |
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo North Island JZZ31
Posts: 1818 Reg: 10-2005
| I know this sounds silly, but when filling the V8, fill from the thermostat housing, not the radiator. Only mention it because I made this mistake with my old UZZ30 once. |
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer South Australia GT4.0 V8
Posts: 6671 Reg: 11-2004
| Correct Matthew, that is the bolt we have been talking about |
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo North Island JZZ31
Posts: 1829 Reg: 10-2005
| Heh, once again I fail to read through the thread properly... |
Ali Yazici
Tinkerer Victoria 4.0GT Limited Soarer V8
Posts: 43 Reg: 08-2006
| Hey guys thanks for all your input. I just came back from Hume Radiators, they did a pressure test and we found a massive crack in the top tank. So it turns out, I'm not retarded after all Getting the top tank and thermostat changed tomorrow, looking at b/w 250-300 he said Cheers |
Ali Yazici
Tinkerer Victoria 4.0GT Limited Soarer V8
Posts: 44 Reg: 08-2006
| Sorry one other thing whilst were here. A lot of people talk about "operating temperature"...are they referring to when the temp gauge goes up to the first bar, or until the temp gauge reaches half way, the way it should be? |
Don Bagnall
Moderator New Zealand I have WAY less Soarers than Hayden :-(
Posts: 5219 Reg: 05-2005
| Half way |
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer South Australia GT4.0 V8
Posts: 6677 Reg: 11-2004
|
Ali Yazici wrote on Thursday, December 28, 2006 - 02:31 pm:they did a pressure test and we found a massive crack in the top tank
Yep. The evidence with mine, was coolant running down the core on the engine side of the radiator and it was a bit damp along the top rim where the top tank is joined to the core. The guy at the radiator shop simply used a screw driver to lever against the edge of the top tank right in the middle and the split was then visible. He knew where to look for it, so the centre is probably a common place for them to go. There are also 2 tanks available - genuine or no-name yum cha. About $50 difference. I asked for genuine, but I suspect they fitted the yum-cha as I can't see a Toyota part number written on it. I would have used APM Radiators at Lonsdale, but time and freight costs were against me. The job would have been cheaper there too, and Ben has had excellent service - and after sales service from them. |
Don Bagnall
Moderator New Zealand I have WAY less Soarers than Hayden :-(
Posts: 5223 Reg: 05-2005
|
Peter Nitschke wrote on Thursday, December 28, 2006 - 02:51 pm:yum-cha
Was that the No.13 on a Thursday night? |
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer South Australia GT4.0 V8
Posts: 6679 Reg: 11-2004
| I just hope if was MSG-free! |
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer South Australia GT4.0 V8
Posts: 6680 Reg: 11-2004
| And that the top tank wasn't fitted by a Dim-Sim. |
Don Bagnall
Moderator New Zealand I have WAY less Soarers than Hayden :-(
Posts: 5229 Reg: 05-2005
| Velly cheap.........Love you long time..........only $1.00! I am SO gonna get crap for this! |
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer South Australia GT4.0 V8
Posts: 6682 Reg: 11-2004
| Sounds like you have been places I wouldn't even think about!
|
Don Bagnall
Moderator New Zealand I have WAY less Soarers than Hayden :-(
Posts: 5234 Reg: 05-2005
| I'm sorry(ish!) |
Dave Hart
DieHard Waikato UZZ32
Posts: 987 Reg: 08-2005
| So much for just $1. You give excellent value Don. |
Dan McColl
Goo Roo Victoria Bog Standard Active and a pos factory Manual XF Falcon.
Posts: 1684 Reg: 07-2005
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Peter Nitschke wrote on Tuesday, December 26, 2006 - 05:12 am:There is a drain tap on the block, but it's awkward to get at and I don't personally know of anyone that has used it
Correction, There are two. One on each cylinder bank. And I have used both. |
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer South Australia GT4.0 V8
Posts: 6707 Reg: 11-2004
| |
Mike Beck
DieHard Ellerslie Soarer 4.0GT
Posts: 771 Reg: 11-2005
| So its definitely a must to try open both those taps on the block when doing a coolant change? |
Dan McColl
Goo Roo Victoria Bog Standard Active and a pos factory Manual XF Falcon.
Posts: 1688 Reg: 07-2005
| I think from memory the easiest way is with a very long socket extension and a universal joint. |
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer South Australia GT4.0 V8
Posts: 6714 Reg: 11-2004
| Mike, I just flushed it heaps, then ran some demineralised water through it to hopefully remove any tap water that was left. Then add concentrate, then top up with demineralised water. Basically as long as you can flush out all the old stuff, and have the correct amount of concentrate in there, then the job should be fine. More satisfaction for you if you can do the block drains though. |