Monday, April 14, 2008 - 12:09 pm, by: Aleem Sarwar(Alemcodon)
Hi everyone.
I need some help. I have a V8 1991, my soarer idles high (1700-1900) and misfires. When i start it cold it runs fine, no misfire, but revs get higher and starts to misfire as it warms up.
I changed the IAC valve, the air flow meter, the plugs, the throttle position sensor, the engine coolant temp sensor.
I ran a diagnostics myself, i didnt get anything back. the instructions told me the cat converter light would flash but on mine the o/d would flash. However the signal it gave was no code detected. i tried it from both engine and interior diagnostics, both normal the test mode.
I then disconnected the air flow meter and ran diagnostics and it still reported nothing. so diagnostics is playing up most likely.
When i do disconnect the air flow meter the engine idles ok and no misfire. hence i havnt changed the leads but if it were it shouldnt run smooth at all regardless. but it cant be driven like that. soon as you plug it back in revs go up and misifre. i tried a diffrent air flow meter same thing.
Theres three heat sensors just under the IAC, according to local parts shop 'parts book' the one the left (19m socket) was the engine managemnt temp sensor, tried it no luck. the diagonal pointing one on the right (22m socket) is the fan temp sensor which i bough second hand but broke it puting it in. New one had diffrent socket). But if it is just a fan sensor it wont fix my problem, However the diagnostic guys. diagrom (http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages/1113/862.html?1100787369) only shows an engine coolant temp sensor, so im not sure whats what. the third little sensor is for the dash display.
My car got flooded years back and the revs dropped, since then i changed the air flow and iac valve only to have have this problem not long later.
Could it be the ecu, if so where is it located and how do i change or test it?
Monday, April 14, 2008 - 02:24 pm, by: Joshua Olm(Iwannasoarer)
Mate your ECU is located underneath the carpet up the front on the left hand side of the car. In front of the passenger's feet.
Before playing around with anything else, find someone near by with another 1UZ-FE and ask nicely if they would be willing to lend you their ECU for you to try in your own car to see if that stops your problem.
Couple of 10mm bolts, three electrical clips to unplug the ECU and about fifteen minutes later after swapsies you'll have your answer if it is indeed that causing the problem...which IMO it probably is from previous experience.
Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 01:42 am, by: Aleem Sarwar(Alemcodon)
thanks for that. ill check the ecu. I did get the diagnostics working, you have to press the scroll button on digital dash to get the codes.
its giving me loadsa codes cus i was unplugging everything and running it. i reset the efi, ran it again and i only get one code for no2. knock sensor (code efi 55). i cant really tell from the diagram where the no2 knock sensor is located, sorry for the stupid questions but can someone give me a little description of where it is and what it looks like and what its function is cus i doubt its gonna fix my high idle problem.
thanks chaps. for any UK chaps theres a guy in nottingham with about 25 soarers breaking, includind uzz32's. im gonna pay him a visit to try out the ecu. hes been my saviour everytime i had a problem.
Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 05:02 am, by: Joshua Olm(Iwannasoarer)
Aleem, the crank shaft knock sensor is located next to the oil filter. Simple to replace. My car was throwing code 13 which is a cam shaft sensor problem. Those three sensors are linked (to my knowledge) the two cam and one crank senors. I replaced my crank sensor only to have the problem remain. It seams that it is pretty common for the ECU to throw one of these error codes when its dieing. The fact that your vehicle is doing exactly the same as what mine was, mine had extremely high idle, severe hunting and only just at the latter stages developing miss, leads me to believe that you have exactly the same problem that Lew found my car had. Check this link out
Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 12:14 am, by: Aleem Sarwar(Alemcodon)
Thanx for that josh, my parts supplier cant sort me out an ecu til next week so meanwhile im messing around with my car tryna figure out something else.
I came across a thread with idle problems and some people figured jamming the IAC valve to hold revs at a certain postion. i tried with my old one and it did hold the idle ok, around 800-900rpm, but it didnt feel right so i put my working IAC back in. The revs would drop slightly when i accelerated, before going up. I opened it and open the valve abit before i put it in, i noticed the valve more open makes the revs lower, and more closed makes it higher. But everytime you swithch the engine off it closes more than its original position (after i adgusted it), therefore after a few starts it ends up back on high idle. Is it possible the new IAC I bought may be dieing and it struggles to open to how much its suppsoed to.
Does the IAC open and shut depending on how much throttle you give it, cus if it does i could just jam it without replacing my ECU.
Another question, is the ECU from an lS400 same as the soarer? I noticed alot of LS400 parts are the same, when i called my local scrappies and ask for and air flow meter for a saorer they say £100, when i ask for an LS400 one they say £40, but they both exactly the friggin same. When it did idle ok it was still mis firing so thats must be to do with the Knock Sensor. Josh the knock sensor you told me about was that the No 1 or No 2 Knock sensor?
PS i done the screen conversion, piece of cake, put the A/V connectors in the arm rest, with my nokia charger coming off the TV tuner also. i wired my N95 (or aything with audio/video) to my screen with sat nav and mp3 player, so i can listen to MP3's, watch my sat nav, have live video through the camera, movies etc. brilliant. (except for the high idle)
A couple of tips for increased power, remove your traction control fuses, big diffrence in speed. losen the throttle sensor cable to your gearbox slightly (very sensitive so a couple of threads would do it). Its the cable going off to the right from accelerator cable. would make it hold gear longer. so when you put your foot down it wont change gears too early and skip the high revs. Also the throttle position sensor you can adgust which makes the gears change harder and quicker. Turn clockwise for harder, anti clockwise for softer. for me as my idles high it slams into gear really really hard (almost violently) so ive left it on fully soft for the moment.
Also jump the TS and E1 on diagnosics port for super stiff air suspension. Much better for the crappy Uk roads. Im sure most you guys know this already but it took me forever to find this stuff, so just in case.
And somebody please answer my previous question also.
Sunday, April 20, 2008 - 01:32 am, by: Aleem Sarwar(Alemcodon)
i fixed my high idle problem. i repaired my old IAC and replaced the new one i bought.
my original one has like a stiff part near the end to stop it from spinning all the way back whereas the new one went back all the way. I dunno whether someone has already cowboyed it the past or whether the diffrent years IAC have slightly diffrent settings. but the idles bang on as it was before. Only the misfire to sort out and im on me way!!!
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