Monday, May 12, 2008 - 03:51 pm, by: Tim Spicer(Spicer)
Sorry guys you will have to forgive my ignorance on this one but I have been told a few different things so I wanted to run it past the people in the know. The low coolant message came up on my dash the other day and I checked and it was low so I was about to grab some coolant to top it up and someone told me not to mix coolants and top it up with water but I was under the impression that that was really a no go in 1uz, so if any one could clear this up for me that would be much appreciated
Monday, May 12, 2008 - 06:06 pm, by: Peter Nitschke(Pen)
The problem is that mixed coolants can turn to sludge, so it's not a nice thing for any cooling system. If your level is dropping, fix the leak, then do a complete flush, then refill with Toyota Long Life coolant so you know what is in there, and have the best coolant for your engine.
Monday, May 26, 2008 - 02:36 pm, by: Steve Millward(Mallard)
The float in the coolant sensor can get a crack in it which means it will display the message even when it's full. It's a very common problem. Take the sensor out and you'll probably see a fine crack in the float at the bottom.
If this (cracked sensor) is the case, you can disconnect it and it won't do any damage. I had mine disconnected for months while I was trying to source another. Stops the annoying dash warning and you just have to be a bit diligent in checking the levels every now and then. New ones are available from Toyota but they're quite expensive as I believe you have to buy the entire overflow tank. Keep your eye out on the forum for people wrecking a V8 and see if you can pick one up from there.
Well guys, on the subject of coolant levels dropping, here's what happened to me on Saturday. The last couple of weeks I've noticed the coolant level has suddenly started to drop. Each morning I was having to put between a quarter and a half litre of coolant in.
I'd had the bottom cover off the engine and had searched for the leak visually, but to no avail. Had a bit of a musty smell in the cabin so thought maybe heater matrix - though no sign there either, so perhaps it's just the AC filters making the smell. So Saturday I was in a hurry to go to town 40kms away. Put my boot down, doing 140 or 150 a lot of the way (no speed traps here thankfully, and open roads). Glanced occasionally at the temp gauge - bang in the middle. Got to the outskirts of town, not watching the gauge so closely because of people and traffic, suddenly heard the engine pinking, by this time I was doing about 40 or 50kph. Looked at gauge and it was midway between half and max. As I was looking it jumped to max and the jap hieroglyphics began to flash on the dash. Pulled over and switched off. Lots of steam and smoke from under the bonnet - discovered the radiator top tank had simply parted company with the radiator over a 6 inch distance next to the fan shroud - the bonnet underblanket was soaked. Got a bucket of water, started the engine and began to gently pour in water to try to cool the engine quickly. But after 2 bucket fulls the temp gauge was still on max and although the engine seemed a little cooler I just switched off and had the car towed home.
Later on when it had cooled I filled the radiator to the level of the crack and the engine started first go, but there's a lot of light metallic noise at the front of the engine.
There already was noise before this happened and I'd changed the bearings on the serpentine belt tensioner and idler, but they were pretty crappy bearings and I think this episode has made them go again - quite a lot of lateral play on those pulleys.
Anyway, although I'd read about the top tank being a problem on the v8s, I'd never imagined it could go with such ceremony! So let this be a lesson to anyone getting a bit of coolant loss!!!
On another note, does anyone know if a Lexus LS400 radiator is interchangeable with the Soarer's? I'm going to have to import a new rad, and the Lexus one is £80 in the UK whereas the Soarer's is £280. Can't imagine why the difference!
Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 07:25 am, by: Dave Hart(Davyboy)
Mark, make sure that there is a crack in the float by removing the sensor and put it in a glass of coolant and you'll see if it floats or not. If it floats then it's not cracked but you have moisture laden coolant inside the shaft which is causing the switch to short. You'll need to remove that liquid for the magnetic switch to work as it should. Do a search for the procedure.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 11:52 am, by: Peter Nitschke(Pen)
Mark, I strongly suggest get the water pump checked out. Bit of a job to get at it, but still. In fact, might as well replace it unless you know for sure that it's OK.
Failing pumps can leak slowly, might account for the fluid drop, and a failed pump could also account for the overheating and metallic noise.
In fact re-reading your post, it could fit all the symptoms that you describe.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008 - 11:02 am, by: Don Bagnall(Baggs)
Seamus, I don't think that they are interchangeable, but wiser heads will confirm for you.
Another considerably cheaper option is to fit a NEW top tank & sealing ring to your existing core (if it's not too moth eaten!)
Part number for top tank: 16441- 50060
Sealing "O" ring: 16442- 46090
For ALL V8 Soarers.
Unless your core is totally rooted, I wouldn't bother with a complete NEW radiator assy.
The top tank splitting is quite common on Soarers as they're getting on a bit.
Any competant radiator repair shop should clean the old core out, fit the new top tank, pressure test and you'll be on your way for another 15 years or so.
Cheers, Don. There are no decent rad repair shops here in Tanzania, but am going to the UK in a fortnight and will take the old rad with me and get it fixed there. Get all the other bits to make my baby go again too. Am having to use a landcruiser at the moment and nice though these vehicles are, I do miss the Soarer's power!
Don Bagnall Moderator New Zealand Mercedes Benz SLK230 Kompressor
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