Friday, November 28, 2008 - 09:20 pm, by: Sean Routledge(Stircrazy)
Hey all,
If the compression ratio is down a bit on the V8, how can it be returned to its former glory?
My Soarer's having one of its "bad days" today. Really annoys me, some days it feels like it's brand new and others it feels like it's 12 yrs old....which is fair enough.
It seems some days after roughly an hour of driving it starts to feel more sluggish. Would this be because it's heated up? Is this fairly common? (to become more sluggish after a while of driving)
Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 01:40 pm, by: Mike Beck(Gold_40gt)
I also find this happens, I think its alot to do with what mood your in when you drive it and what you have been driving before taking your soarer for a drive.
Go test drive a middle of the road car and you will enjoy your soarer 10x more till you get used to it again. I often think, 'oh dear this interior has so many noises, oh it's hard over bumps!, its slow ohh...' But when you get into another 'regular' Japanese car you quickly discover how comfortable and fast the Soarer is compared.
Truly great car...
Speaking of the Compression ratio, has anyone raised their 10.0 CR in a 1991 V8 to a slightly higher one like 10.4/5 like used in the later model 1UZ higher CR engines + have it tuned? I wonder if that's worth perusing for a bit more power/torque, whatever.
Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 01:50 pm, by: Sean Routledge(Stircrazy)
Yeah, it just gets me how some days i'll put my foot flat from stationary and wheelspin, then other days it's like a slug to around 3,000rpm where it then feels normal....and no wheelspin.
I tend to drive pretty hard the majority of the time, that's why I think it has nothing to do with me.
Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 04:45 pm, by: Brett Harrison(Bretto)
haahhahahaha absolute nutter.
Sean what your experiencing is most likely as scott says, coolant temp increasing, with results in reduced ignition advance. And partly heat soak and increased inlet air temps.
The fact your car will spin the wheels and get along well when cold, says that the engine is largely heathly. So maybe look at getting it to run cooler. I'm trying to get a 1uz moving that feels like a dog the whole time regardless of temp, and thats really frustrating.
Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 06:19 pm, by: Sean Routledge(Stircrazy)
aah, that's good to hear.
I drive under 2000rpm until the temp reads one bar below half way, and i've never seen it go above that point. But i'm assuming you mean the coolant temp continues to rise as I continue to drive. Is that correct?
Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 07:02 pm, by: Brett Harrison(Bretto)
If your temp stays one bar below, all sounds good. Although I never find standard temp gauges to be very sensitive. I prefer aftermarket temp gauges that can show small deviations in temperature.
Tuesday, December 02, 2008 - 12:02 pm, by: Gary Redman(Gary)
Just did a compression check on mine and averaged 190/195psi. That's plenty of compression so no need to go chasing 10.5:1. I don't think you would benefit much from all the added cost and work outlay if you didn't do work on the intakes as well.
Geordie Smith Tinkerer NSW Need White boot lid, White RH door trim, RH window reg, Green RH Door handle, boot struts. PM if you can help.
Monday, December 29, 2008 - 01:03 pm, by: Mike Beck(Gold_40gt)
Geordie Smith wrote on Saturday, December 27, 2008 - 01:14 pm:
I tend to look at the car though and think, why dabble with something that was made perfect.
It may have been perfect in 1991 but today there is plenty room for improvement.
The headers and intake are NOT perfect for example, really let the car down. So its a good ideal to change parts on these, there is so much you can do with a good budget.
Previous
absolute nutter. 
