Thursday, December 25, 2008 - 07:59 pm, by: Steve Zac(Tnt992)
Why would you do that....It wouldn't make a difference. If you really feel that obsessed with your oil being clean then drop the sump and clean the metal filings off the magnets but it still would make no difference.
Simple answer. No moisture will get in and if it does it would just evaporate when the oil gets hot. People do head gaskets all the time which means there is water in the oil in bad cases and still no issue.
Friday, December 26, 2008 - 01:31 pm, by: Chris Lock(Sledge)
So i ran out of oil lol.. I filled it up with Castrol GTX 10W-30 and it's only at the bottom of the dipstick (LOW), but i have some GTX3 15W-40 and some Valvoline XLD 15W-40 Would it be ok to top it up with one of these, or would that be bad?
Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 06:59 pm, by: Chris Lock(Sledge)
Well i've been looking around and most threads seem to indicate that it doesn't matter, as long as it's changed on time.. What oil do you recommend then?
Monday, December 29, 2008 - 07:10 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
True enough, if you are changing both oil and filter every 5000km's and you aren't stressing your engine then GTX is probably fine - its a mineral oil so it is going to break down fairly quickly. Also its 20w50 though isn't it? So its really a bit thick for a 1UZ.
I generally use a semi-synthetic 10w40, like Magnatec or Penrite HPR10 if I can't get Magnatec at a good price. Some people recommend going even lighter, like Penrite HPR5, but I'd say only if you have a very low wear engine.
Monday, December 29, 2008 - 01:01 pm, by: Mike Beck(Gold_40gt)
Soon I'm going to give HPR5 a try in my UZZ31 once the engine is back together, I was quite shocked with how clean the heads were and how tight the valve clearances still are so I think I will stick to more around the factory recommended grade.
Glad I didnt put HPR15 in, way too thick! It has HPR10 in at the moment which seems like a good balanced grade.
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