Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 08:49 pm, by: Ali Yazici(Wa_ali)
Guys, Im now officially lost...I have been researching since 230 this afternoon and working on the car from 230 till 5 and then more research only to lead me to the same answers which I was getting
This is the situation: 1. Car was in perfect running order prior to the timing belt and water pump change 2. After timing belt and water pump change, I have an Error 13 message, despite the fact that the car is running perfect, no cutting out, no spitting, backfiring anything..... 3. Timing belt is 120% correct, was double, triple and quadriple checked by myself, my mechanic and his colleague 4. The solutions to the problems can be either of the following:
a. Cam Position Sensor 2 playing up b. Wire harness or the connectors playing up c. ECU or loom connecting to valve sensors faulty d. Crank sensor cable damaged e. Crank sensor connector dirty
From what I have seen, cam position sensor 2 is the one located on the drivers side...is that correct?
I cleaned both connectors of the cam position sensors (these are the cables that are petruding out from the cam covers and then both join together to go under the thermostat I think and into the ECU????)
If that is so, when the passenger side Cam angle sensor cables are disconnected, why is it that after resetting the EFI (by removing the 30A fuse) and restarting the engine, that I do not get an Error 12 followed by an Error 13 as Error 12 is for Cam position sensor 1 and Error 13 for Cam position sensor 2??? Am I disconnecting the wrong cables, or cleaning the wrong cables/connectors????
Also, after resetting the EFI, when diagnostics are re-run, EFI OK is displayed, only until the engine is started that is...then Error 13 is displayed again.......
ECU was never played with, so I dont think its that
I have the feeling that it could be a faulty crank sensor or the cables/connector is damaged, given its located under/rear of the oil pump....this was also acknowledged by The Boss
Can anyboy else shed any light please???
Ali Yazici DieHard Victoria Stock UZZ31 with Lexus Badges
Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 09:46 pm, by: Ali Yazici(Wa_ali)
Nope, I actually saw that solution on a number of threads as well I checked for rubbing and damaged cables, but all I could find was the cable of the Cam position sensor 1 (the passenger side one) had a crack in the yellow part of the cable.
So the insulation around the two cables for the CPS1 was fine, except the cable on the inside had a cracked shield, so it was exposing the core. Crack was running around the whole cable, and it was about 1-2mm wide...
Having said that, if that was one of the problems, once again, that should give an error 12, given the CPS1 cable being damaged, but Im getting error 13...so im thinking thats not the problem.
Anything else you can think of???
Andrew Ferres Goo Roo WA '90 C-F Celsior V8, '84 Soarer V8, '91 Supra V8
Thursday, February 19, 2009 - 11:53 am, by: Andrew Ferres(Peewee)
The ecu does throw a code if one of the cam pulleys is out one tooth.
Underneath the diagnosics box you'll see a 6 pin plug (between another plug and the #1 injector). That plug houses all the wires for the 2 cam sensors and the crank sensor. Make sure all those pins are in properly.
Unplug it, and figure out which pins are what (from memory there are 2 commons, and 3 signals - cam 1, cam 2, crank). Get the multimeter out, put it on 10VAC and crank the motor, make sure all 3 are giving a signal (if you have access to a CRO that would be MUCH better, but this test is better than nothing).
If all 3 are good its a fair assumption all 3 are working and getting back to the ECU.
Which would put it back to one of the cams being out a tooth.
And yes, I'm 99% sure the passengers is #1 and drivers is #2. I've never had code 12 or 13 so I can't comment on what triggers them. I'm surprised that unplugging them didn't throw a code, but I know some things require certain conditions to throw codes (speed above X, coolant temp above X, rpm above X etc). I unplugged the AFM the other day and started the car, was surprised I didn't get the airtemp sensor error code.
Ali Yazici DieHard Victoria Stock UZZ31 with Lexus Badges
So put the car up on the ramp, acknowledged heaps of oil on the crank sensor, so unbolted the crank sensor, cleaned it all up, CRC'd the connector and cleaned it up from all the oil surrounding it, connected it back up again, start the car up and.............NO GOOD!!!!
So I went deep inside the cams, and this time actually removed both the cam sensors, to find;
Cam Sensor 1 (Passenger side) had a broken cable about 10mm from the base of the sensor,so stripped the shield down, soldered the cable together and taped it back up with the insulator tape
Cam sensor 2 (Drivers Side) had the outer shield worn through by rubbing on the belt (surprised how I missed that the first time) and the outer core was visible, so I tried to allign the outer core properly and taped it up.
Replaced both the cam sensors, plugged in all the cables and........
So the lesson to be learnt here is, just because its Error 13, it doesnt necessarily mean that its cam sensor 2 thats faulty. Before buying new cam sensors, always ensure to check that the cables are in good condition, otherwise you may end up spending ~400 for both cam sensors and maybe more, when you could have got it fixed for 50cm of insulation tape (better to be safe than sorry lol) and 5 cm of solder and ofcourse.....8 hours of work
Andrew Ferres Goo Roo WA '90 C-F Celsior V8, '84 Soarer V8, '91 Supra V8
Thursday, February 19, 2009 - 01:17 pm, by: Ali Yazici(Wa_ali)
Good save!!!! lol I was referring to new parts prices for BOTH the Cam Position Sensors But yeah, I dont think I have actually bought anything new, excpet for my bushes (Vlamos of course) brake lines (Maltech), timing belt, water pump, seat belts and Fuel Pump ECU......ONLY the crucial things are purchased new
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I checked for rubbing and damaged cables, but all I could find was the cable of the Cam position sensor 1 (the passenger side one) had a crack in the yellow part of the cable. 
