Monday, February 01, 2010 - 10:23 pm, by: Boris Siljanoski(Z2tt)
You never know the condition of the second hand ones, which are probably due for a rebuild anyway. Guess if you don't decide to keep the car for long you can just buy a spare for $500, or if you plan to keep the car for a while, have it as a project etc Better off rebuilding.
Andrew Ferres Goo Roo WA '90 C-F Celsior V8, '84 Soarer V8
Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 12:26 pm, by: James Meikle(Msc400)
I'm looking at getting Cihan single turbo kit for my next project soarer and Cihan has given me some price on the motor. The problem is how much power do I what to make.
Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 02:49 pm, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
300rwkw through a stock healthy motor and some tuning finesse with good management will give you tens of thousands of kays hassle free motoring, no doubt about it.
When you start to push that line without decompression, or without proper servicing and maintenance, the margins slim and the engine is likely to suffer a gradual and smokey demise.
In my experience, cylinder pressure or changes that generally effect combustion and exhaust temperatures don't kill a 1UZ that easily. Like any other engine, detonation eventually takes its toll under the stress of high combustion pressures and elevated intake charge temperature. Thats the main problem here. The S1 turbo kits design focus was to increase that knock threshold / safety margin significantly. Unless you're running water meth injection, being intercooled at 300rwkw is a great help to longevity, especially when the weather changes.
The 10:1 compression is what keeps thermal efficiency up, and cylinder + exhaust temperatures down. Good for a stock motor up to 300-320rwkw.
For a street application at under 380 odd rwkw, i'd use a GT35R internally gated, rebuild with rods, quality stainless rings, MLS head gasket. Absolute rocket to drive, 7500rpm rev limit, with decent economy to boot.
For some more ferocity, up to and over 10,000N of tractive effort: rebuild with rods and pistons, camshafts, TO4Z w/ 0.8x rear and 50mm ex gate. 380rwkw on pump, 450rwkw on better fuel.. Perfect combination with excellent response. Perfect combination for a powerhouse 1UZ.
From there it's easy to step up to 500+rwkw with a different turbo, intake manifold and complete ignition system overhaul.
Thats as easy as it gets. In my recent opinion its a fresh, original and much more cost effective than playing around with small capacity inline 6's ;) With UZZ3x going for $2,000 - the possibilities are damn near endless.
Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 03:01 pm, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
Andrew Ferres wrote on Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 12:45 am:
Sure, if you want to spend $3k+ on a rebuild that would most likely be outlasted by a $500 jap import motor, go for your life...
Done properly you'll spend more than that on overhaul parts and machine work before changing anything application specific about the engine.
Sure, a hone, rings and OTC bearing swap plus $60 head skim is all its takes to 'freshen her up' - i wouldn't be screwing in 20psi and taking that •••• to 7,500rpm on a regular basis either - so i see where you're coming from.
I think we agree - Proper machine work, quality parts and professional assembly is cheap insurance worth paying for.
Andrew Ferres Goo Roo WA '90 C-F Celsior V8, '84 Soarer V8
Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 10:10 pm, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
Not surprised. Once bitten, twice shy myself. Learned not to trust anyone in the automotive industry without a long chat on a get to know basis, no matter how many 5 million hp drag cars they've built.
Now, every bit of machine work gets triple checked and i fly up to see my competent friend complete the assembly process.
I just bought an engine, rebuilt by Toyota mechanics (what ever that means) which had failed in 9,000kms under normal conditions - piston installed wrong way around.
Andrew you'll find machine shops have a lot to answer for. A few years ago i had a head 'cleaned and pressure tested' by a high turnover mob in Melbourne - with the intention of dropping in a set of valve stem seals and re using the head. Received it back in 2 days, looking clean and ready to go with a good report. I wasn't convinced it was 'A-OK' as i knew the donor engine had been overheated. Tested each port myself, not one exhaust valve was seating properly, 1 valve stem seal dislodged on contact and the head surface had been skimmed but still not perfect.
Same head was sent else where for a complete rebuild, received back and shims hadn't been done.
Oh well, over time you learn who not to deal with.
Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 08:18 pm, by: Ben Kelly(Ace)
Cihan im interested in this too. i understand that there are dud places out there to get a rebuild but shouldnt it theoretically be better to rebuild than put another worn engine in? even the jap imports are likely to have high kms despite the claims? surely there are some reliable places to do the job properly? and as for the 500$ engines any reccomendations? i suppose im curious because im up to 300 000 kms and expect that ill need to consider this in a couple of years...or maybe not, no obvious signs of undue wear yet.
Andrew Ferres Goo Roo WA '90 C-F Celsior V8, '84 Soarer V8
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