Wednesday, April 07, 2010 - 09:40 am, by: John Tonkin(Tonkinator)
Hi Guys Just rebuilt my steering pump because it was blowing fluid out of the resevior.It has been wineing for some time before that.Followed all the instructions from the Planet Soarer site.bled the system but the steering seems a bit stiff when stationary.Looked at all the tip on the forum about the valve wrong way around,checked that, that was o.k.Took the pump off again stripped it down.That was o.k.put it back .still stiff. Noticed that on one side of the valve the brown coating was worn on one side and the alloy was showing, but the funny thing that it was showing inside the recesses aswell as though it had been sand blasted. Could this be the problem,iff so can you obtain replacement valves. Any ideas.The steering seems less stiff starting from cold.?
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 - 06:13 pm, by: Dave Rose(Sand_groper)
Hi John, I have just started doing rebuilt exchange v8 pumps and after doing a few I have found this small ball and seat needs to be cleaned? if the filter gets blocked it can make the valve hunt up and down ? this may have caused the wear in the valve and liner?
Thursday, April 08, 2010 - 06:44 am, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
on the chassis adjacent to the pump (engine side of wheel arch) is an elect plug if it has been disconnected it will make the steering stiff when stationary, but feel ok at speed.
Friday, April 09, 2010 - 10:29 am, by: John Tonkin(Tonkinator)
Thanks for that Dave, i did clean the valve but i may look at that again.I was thinking maybe the pump ran dry and damaged the vanes but they looked o.k.It seems looking at all the steering pump threads it seems hit or miss. Cheers
Sunday, April 11, 2010 - 09:59 pm, by: John Tonkin(Tonkinator)
Hi Dave Yes the paddles are the right way, double checked,have you come across the problem with the valve which i described with part of the coating worn away.
Monday, April 12, 2010 - 12:49 pm, by: John Tonkin(Tonkinator)
Hi Dave. When i start from cold its not to bad after that, at tick over its like having a work out at the gym. I guess we are getting to soft these days i remember the days before power steering.It didnt seem that bad!.I checked the spring and that seemed o.k.I noticed there was some improvement when i backed off the bolt on the valve, i lost a lot of fluid on the drive i tightened it up again and topped the system up.I wonder if there might be a air lock somewhere?Cheers.
Monday, April 12, 2010 - 10:56 pm, by: Dave Rose(Sand_groper)
No.... even if there was some air in there it would still get out very quickly, so its tight at tick over but gets better as it speeds up. its got to be something to do with the valve. its a long shot but you could push the top spring blanking bung(the one you put a screw on to pull it out) down as it will slide with the o seal in effect making the spring stronger. The other thing is the rack flow control valve and computer of which i have no knowlege ! but that was ok before you rebuilt the pump?
Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 10:42 pm, by: Richard Luong(Reggiebangbang)
Hey guys I'm at the end of my tread and losing my s#*t. Okay so I've read how to rebuild the pump and all, but toyota didn't have the seal kits and the soarer is my daily driver. So I've found a pump in very good condition pluged it in and there isn't any leakage any where.
Now here's the fun bit. With the motor running I removed all the air in the system, drove it for 15 - 20 mins it was fine, however right after that the pump starts to moan again, there isn't any leakage from the pump but the reserver is over flowing and gushing out (and yes I filled it to the correct hot level) and the steering goes stiff.
Can anyone shed some light on this I've taken it out 4 times and done the right thing every time and it's the same situation after driving it. I pray that it's not the steering rack.
If there is anyone in Melbourne with a perfect pump up for sale let me know 0401 312 123
Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 11:16 pm, by: Jamie Richards(Nwb40gt)
man from the get go you should have just source a new pump even and after market pump. I went throw the same thing pull the pump to pieces over & over change every seal the thing had change bearing all of that to have the the thing over flowing and gushing out.I bought a aftermarket pump problem solve right away only thing is that it will hum ever so slightly to stop that every time i service i would just change the fluid & its all good.
Friday, April 23, 2010 - 05:11 pm, by: Andrew Ferres(Peewee)
Turn the car from full lock to full lock, that sometimes helps get the last of the air out.
Also you can stick something on top of the reservoir (like an upsidedown coke bottle with the bottom cut off) which can then fill up with the excess oil instead of spilling it somewhere.
Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 12:22 am, by: Richard Luong(Reggiebangbang)
Dave I think you could be on the money here.
Today I ripped it out and took my sweet ass time putting in carefully, and got rid of all the air while the front wheels were off the ground, it's weird sometimes it starts to whine and then it stops. However I've found that with the AC on its goes off it tits.
Now the new twist is there is no over flow from the reserve tank (one step closer) not too much stiffness when turning full lock but it does sound like air is getting into the pump somehow, the noise comes and goes as it please
So you reckon just change the short fat hose that goes from the reserve tank to the top end of the pump, it is quite hard and stiff but looking at it like you said looks fine, I'll give that a go and the two skinny ones (one that feeds air from the air boxish area and the other one which goes to the top of the engine) should these be changed too? Apparently the skinny hoses are hard to track down Burson in Melbourne don't stock it neither does Repco.
I seriously hope it's the feed hose your referring to Dave if it is mate I’d be forever gratefully, if not... match in the gas tank. Ha-ha.
Honestly guys I really do appreciate the help, bloody dick head mechanic around my area clearly don't know s*it, all I’ve been told by the 4 shops I visted is you need a new steering rack, pump and hoses.
Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 11:32 am, by: Dave Rose(Sand_groper)
Richard its worth changing, and as the engine moves be it only a small amount it twists the inlet pipe as the canister is fixed to body ,fine while its flexable but as it gets hard with age it can let air in. (cut length of pipe from Super cheap). dont worry about the small pipes if there was any sort of problem with the switch on the pump the fluid would be coming out of them . All it does is as the pressure rises in the output side it of the pump it opens the switch which allows air from the aircleaner to go down the first pipe through the switch and up to air inlet on engine ,the extra air lifts the revs at tickover to help the pump cope
Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 05:03 pm, by: Richard Luong(Reggiebangbang)
Bummer should have thought of super cheap before I went down to Toyota for the hose ($35, bit of a rip off) How likely is the out put switch to fail? Becuase the one that's on the car atm and the spare one I got given there is a little but movement (approx 0.5 to a 1mm of movement either direction) where the black plastic part connects to the metal nut/thread.
Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 06:08 pm, by: Richard Luong(Reggiebangbang)
Oh dave one more question haha. Stupid me I forgot to disconnect the battery and bumped the alternator screw, copule of sparks went off checked the fuse box in the engine bay and it looks like I blew the big brown 150A, now I'm hoping this is a good thing on the theroy that i haven't smoked the ecu. Should there be other fuses elase where I should check becuase in the engine fuse box the 150A is the only one that ness replacing. Btw where should I go get one?went to repco, super cheap and autobahn, the biggest one they stock is a 120A.
Would anyone know if Toyota would be open in the parts department tomorrow considering it's ANZAC day.
Sunday, April 25, 2010 - 10:56 am, by: Dave Rose(Sand_groper)
Richard the air switch is on the high pressure fluid side, so it will only leak fliud into the pipe to the engine or just leak from the switch itself , air getting in will be on the low pressure side. If the switch was not leaking before it will be fine. Think you blew ALT fuse so all is well(a 120a should be ok till you get the right one)
Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 12:48 pm, by: Richard Luong(Reggiebangbang)
Hey Dave, I'll be sure to post the status of the car tomorrow once I get the 150A fuse put in and bleed all the air out of the pump. My fingers are crossed that it was the feed hose, the old one it was quite stiff and hard but who knows, as for the air feed hoses down near the valve I've modified the clamp by using two of them and making the clamp a really tight fit. If I get a chance I'll take some photos might be helpful to others.
Previous
