Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 09:37 pm, by: Murray Lund(Murray)
Hi all, I am just playing with the idea of fitting my headers myself (bit short of dollars - and the drivers side muffler is trailling fibreglass packing so needs replacing soon as well). I also enjoy skinning my knuckles. The nuts on the manifold studs look achievable, but looking under the car tonight its obvious the cross member needs to come off to get the headers in. The rear of the lower control arms are bolted to the cross member. Just wondering what the procedure is for removing the cross member and how much of the control arm has to be dismantled to achieve that. Also, would you need to get a front wheel alignment after re-assembly? Any tips appreciated eg. anything else need to come off to get to manifold nuts. (Yes - I know its a pain in the arse job). Murray
Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 10:19 pm, by: James Buchan(Jrbuch)
Yes you need a wheel alignment after re-assembly. I paid to have it done and the cross member needed to be loosened at least. WD40 for loosening the manifold nuts. That's about all I can think of.
Dan McColl Goo Roo Victoria (The Nazi State) Active V8 and the Beast.
Thursday, June 10, 2010 - 05:46 am, by: Murray Lund(Murray)
Thanks Matt, The car has new engine mounts already. I am a bit confused, I was thinking of the steel cross member behind the sump needing to come off. When you say that the engine needs supporting, are you saying that the alloy cross member in front of the sump needs to come off? Both cross members?
Thursday, June 10, 2010 - 08:38 am, by: Nik Peacock(Niko)
I managed to do the headers myself but I did have the use of a hoist, can't see it being possible to do it on the ground. Didn't need to remove the cross member, I must say I wouldn't do it again, 8hrs to remove stock manifolds and about 1 hr to fit the headers and the loss of skin off all knuckles.
Thursday, June 10, 2010 - 01:02 pm, by: Murray Lund(Murray)
Hi Nik, I don't have a hoist, but I do have access to a pit. Not as flexible but should work OK. I am interested that you did not remove any cross members. Can you give any more detail please about this.
Thursday, June 10, 2010 - 01:14 pm, by: Nik Peacock(Niko)
There are some exhaust brackets to remove(bolts up to the bottom of the bell housing) a couple of bracing bits and pieces, and of course the old manifolds. Access is the big issue, trying to twist arms and wrists into positions they were never designed for, one thing I can recommend is get hold of some ratchet spanners.
Thursday, June 10, 2010 - 04:50 pm, by: Murray Lund(Murray)
Nik, I'm assuming you fitted them from the bottom of the car, and you're saying you managed to get the old manifolds out and the new headers in without removing any cross members. Correct? To me it doesn't look like there's enough room, but I'd be very happy DIY'er if I'm wrong.
Phil Gibson Goo Roo WA '91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31
Monday, June 14, 2010 - 02:41 pm, by: Phil Gibson(Sciflyer)
Geez some of you are soft! - i have removed and fitted factory Soarer, UZ VVTi and Rush headers with NO hoist or pit, NOT removing the engine and NOT removing any suspension/crossmembers
The ONLY parts you NEED to remove are the brackets on either side that connect the front and rear crossmembers, as you need that space to get access to some of the nuts, and the intake stuff so you have some top-down access on teh drivers side
That alone plus a selection of socket extensions and a couple of spanners will be enough
No its not easy, yes some nuts are a PITA, yes it takes a while but pulling the engine or dropping the crossmember to do it is over the top
Monday, June 14, 2010 - 03:51 pm, by: Murray Lund(Murray)
Hi Phil, Thanks for this post. I can appreciate removing some of the intake plumbing for top-down access, that makes perfect sense. Not sure what you mean by removing the 'brackets on either side that connect the front and rear crossmembers'. Do you mean undo the front and rear crossmember bolts, but leave the lower control arms attached?
Phil Gibson Goo Roo WA '91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31
Monday, June 14, 2010 - 04:24 pm, by: Phil Gibson(Sciflyer)
The brackets are plates bolted to teh front and rear crossmembers with 4 bolts - as soon as you get under teh car you'll see what i mean
You need to take them off to get space to shove your arm/socket/spanner up to get a couple of the nuts off
You dont have to touch the control arms at all, and yes either ramps or axles stands is fine, juast bear in mind the space you'll need under the car to manouvre the headers into position, that can be a bit fiddly