Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 09:09 pm, by: James Buchan(Jrbuch)
I've not changed my ecu's caps or had them inspected. That said my car goes pretty well so I've not bothered to look. Mike, I'm of the opinion that if something isn't broken not to fix it. Should I take a look in this case?
Mike Beck Goo Roo New Zealand BMW E36 Coupe 1UZFE V8 340i
Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 09:31 pm, by: Mike Beck(Gold_40gt)
I would repair them anyway, if they leak on the board, they can damage the delicate copper wire tracks... bye bye ecu!
So its more a precaution to take for something that will happen in due course.
I did some more investigating with my cars issues.
The AFM seems knackered. Runs well but rich without it
I've replaced 5 of the 8 capacitors in the ECU (the idiot at Jaycar mailed me too many of some and missing others - WTF)
I'm going INTO the store tomorrow to get the right ones so I will re-do it again Wednesday night.
I cleaned up the tired caps and rotors - they need replacing though so aren't helping by any means.
Leads checked out all ok resistance wise.
Spark plugs are ok, within gap, look fine.
Turns out the side coil pack was stuffed, the car would run with one cap lead off, but not with the other off, so based on that I swapped the side coil pack over with a using working one I had and it worked either way.
Ran much better on the road, the surging is gone, just a bit off a miss at certain throttle positions when going 20-30km/h.
I am hoping the other capacitors are faulty and causing this.
Other wise I will try another ECU.
My intention is to replace with all new OEM Coils, caps, rotors and even igniters as I doubt they are very healthy anymore.
Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 10:21 pm, by: Brett Harrison(Bretto)
James, "If it aint broke don't fix it" well that old saying should be kicked to the curb, I say fix it before it breaks, or creates a much bigger and more expensive problem.
Replacing all the ignition parts certainly sharpens the 1U.
Both my 1U'S run better with AFM disconnected, doesn't mean AFM is screwed though, only problem is rev limit then cuts in at 5,500.
Ive never looked at checking nor replacing igniters, I always thought these just died, rather than deteriorated. I'd be interested in how you would check these ?
Mike Beck Goo Roo New Zealand BMW E36 Coupe 1UZFE V8 340i
Wednesday, October 05, 2011 - 10:27 pm, by: Mike Beck(Gold_40gt)
Yeah first time I've soldered in about a year.
I re did it today, came out good this time.
I used some proper Japanese solder (returned the chinese crap to Jaycar)
I find the trick is to just cut the old caps off their leads and solder the new leads to the old leads.
That way you don't risk over heating the board or lifting the copper board tracks trying to remove the old solder/wires.
Mmm 180rwkw.
My car would only be putting out 120-140rwkw max.
As it is now its got more than enough power, I really need to upgrade the suspension/tires and diff - brakes are probably ok at this stage as the weight has gone down, although Ill probably replace them with 325mm 330i rotors eventually.
Mike Beck Goo Roo New Zealand BMW E36 Coupe 1UZFE V8 340i
Friday, October 07, 2011 - 06:17 pm, by: Mike Beck(Gold_40gt)
Temporary exhaust I'm running, what was on the car before.
Twin 1.8-2.0" 328i twin system, Cats, x pipe, resonators and a Remus dual in dual out muffler.
Later I'll be upgrading the headers, running 2.5", high flow cats, twin non balanced resonators, swap-able with a twin H pipe resonator section out to twin Audi RS4 mufflers.
Sunday, August 04, 2013 - 12:18 pm, by: Nige Turner(Grommit)
Mike Beck wrote on Sunday, August 04, 2013 - 12:08 pm:
Okay, cheers for the update. My v8 runs fine with the maf unplugged, but when it's plugged in and the car is up to temp it misses and mucks around under load..
I guess it could be ecu, I've replaced caps.. tested coils, leads, got new plugs..
I'll keep researching, and fiddling.
Cheers mate.
Mike Beck Goo Roo New Zealand BMW E36 Coupe 1UZFE V8 340i
Sunday, August 04, 2013 - 12:35 pm, by: Mike Beck(Gold_40gt)
Also check the EFI temp sender on the front bypass bridge.
Have you had your ECU capacitors replace with top end ones? From what I gather it's preferable to get the best quality ones around. I've used the Jaycar ones and some of them failed within a short time, even though I was careful installing them with the soldering heat.
It's probably a good idea to get another AFM to test against yours.
The trouble with just removing the plug from the AFM is that it runs a default base setting and also rules out other sensors that could be playing up, so you are better to test things with the AFM plugged in.