My beloved 31 has developed a problem. It will start up no problem when cold but refuses to start when warm. When it's cold no problems, starts first go and doesn't die, nothing.
When it's been warmed up (say either driving or idling for until up to operating temperature) and the engine is turned off it will just crank on the next attempt to start. Found this out the hard way last wednesday to top off an already crappy day at work lol
Things that I have noticed: * Switching the car to ON (not started) there is no noises coming from the fuel pump. * There is usually the sound of fuel pump being energised. The sound isn't there now whether the engine is cold or warm (leading me to believe that it is a fuel-related issue). * Main starter relay still clicks, all engine bay fuses are fine. * Pulsation damper screw doesn't move up/down when the engine cranks. * Fuel pump ECU was replaced with a secondhand unit when I first bought the car (about 4 years ago). Tried to bridge connection FP and B+ terminals to see if I could run the pump at full load, didn't make a difference. * Tried doing the diagnostics, no engine/EFI related codes come up on the EMV.
I was thinking maybe CPS or TPS could be the culprit, maybe even the AFM but then wouldn't the problem be happening regardless if the engine is cold or not?
If I could get any advice on this before I start dumping money into the thing it'd be much appreciated, it is my daily and has been wonderfully reliable until last week.
Monday, March 05, 2012 - 05:42 pm, by: Dave Hart(Davyboy)
I've had this for years with no fix found. Definitely something temperature related maybe in the logic. Everything ok when first started cold or not so hot. More than likely in Oz than here in NZ where it's not so hot but the engine bay can still get very hot. Maybe some pre-start inhibit that's more critical than when running or as someone suggested a cracked board that opens up with heat- just a thought. If you ever find out come back and let us know. BTW I just have to leave it for a few minutes and it starts but on really hot days it has needed to be left for the best part of an hour. In the summer I try and park in the shade if possible as this can lessen the wait,
Monday, March 05, 2012 - 07:42 pm, by: Bill Ellis(Wellis)
Had the same about three weeks ago.Car ran like a dream until you stopped anywhere, then you had to let it cool down.Was at the shopping centre for half an hour cranking fine but not starting,$70 tow ,off the truck then it starts.
I couldn't do the FP to + bridge as there was no 12v on pin.
Replaced caps in ECU and hasn't had a problem since.Some caps had leaked and I think when ECU warms up the crap must become conductive and when it cools down it hardens,luckily no board damage.
Tuesday, June 26, 2012 - 10:29 am, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
if you check B+ at the diagnostic port (ig ON) i think you will find it is 0v not 12v.
With the IG ON wriggle or pull out and replace the large round silver relays (cannot remember the exact One)In the fuse box near the battery) and you will hear a number of relays clicking and 12v will return to B+. Car will now start.
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