First of all I apologise for the long winded post, but hopefully by the end you'll have a basic understanding of what's happening, because I as sure as hell don't lol.
So after about 4 years of virtually trouble free motoring my beloved '31 has started to develop 2 issues.
Not Starting When Hot OK so this has been happening intermittently for about 6 months. First instance was on the way home from work (I travel about 120~130km round trip), mild weather and I pulled into a petrol station (lesson learned, visit the little boys' room BEFORE leaving work!). Jump back in the car, no dice. Nothing. Electrics were all fine, could crank all day long but no fire.
Symptoms:
No warning lamps or Japanese messages.
FPR dampener screw doesn't budge when in this state. My understanding is that it should rise at the presence of fuel pressure, leading me to think it's a fuel pump issue, however...
... typical symptoms such as losing power on the freeway etc. are non existant. I could start her up from cold (or driving less than 30min) and I could drive for 6 hours non stop. The moment I switch her off, leave for about 5 to 10 minutes and attempt to restart I have to cross my fingers and hope she fires... sometimes lucky, sometimes not.
Relays seem to be OK and are clicking away every time I've attempted to start the engine.
For some reason I recall the fuel pump making a small amount of noise before starting (I'm one of them “turn the key to ON, wait, then start" kinda guys lol)... that sound is now not present.
Not Starting At All The main problem at the moment is (what I think) could be the alternator. Now, I've never had an alternator die on me so don't know of the symptoms. Everything I've read up on this issue is to measure the voltage with the car off and with the car running. If possible I'd like to do as much possible before sending it to the mechanics (need to get her towed etc, no time at the moment unfortunately).
Prior events (don't know if they are related or not):
I had/have an issue with the car where it wouldn't start until the engine bay had completely cooled down (still don't know what this is, and only does it intermittently), only seems to happen if I've been driving for an hour or so (no matter if I've been stuck in traffic or travelling on the freeway. It doesn't seem to be the fuel pump ECU (I've had that issue before and have a general sense of what happens when it gives out).
Battery has been swapped out about 4 or 5 months ago with a new one (from memory a N70ZZL, about 700CCA or so).
One day (while stuck in the usual traffic around Bankstown in about 35degC~ hot weather) the overheating cat light came on (with no other warnings). Has not re-appeared since (happened a few weeks ago).
Last friday I went to go to start the car, started up fine. Start reversing out and completely cuts out on me like I switched the car off. Turned it over again, was fine and parked it up. That evening I went to start it, cranked for ~1sec. and symptoms of a dead battery (fast relay clicking), battery not charging symbol appeared on the dash and hasn't turned on since.
Symptoms:
All electronics work until I attempt to start.
Upon cranking all power is lost.
Once switched off the electrics gain some form of power although weak. I have since d/c the battery.
Things I've Done So Far
With the car off the battery voltage seems to be fine (hovers about 12.5~12.6v). I can't check the voltage with the engine running because it won't start.
Tried the same battery from Soarer in my GS300 and cranks and starts fine, voltage is about 14.3v.
Haven't done FP +B yet but have done EMV diagnostics, doesn't seem to come up with anything in particular to my situation (says ECU is OK but who knows).
Removed all engine covers, IACV, intake piping and box to have a better look. The alternator is covered in grime, but only the rear of the alternator appears to be wet.
So after all that it looks like I'll be doing a PAS pump rebuild and alternator swap, maybe even the starter motor and fuel pump. Gotta figure out where I'm going to be spending money first. Any helpful suggestions are much appreciated!
Not yet. I have a Soarer VVTi turbo that I could pull one off to test, as far as I can see they're the same part number (ToyoDIY: 85940-24080) but won't get to pull it out until next week.
Problem is, at the moment the car refuses to start at all, so I won't be able to test the FP ECU until I can get her running again
Coil pack you say. Call me stupid, I know what they look like on a 1JZ, but on a 1UZ I thought it was a spark plug wire set up since there are distributors in place?
The photo below, are you referring to ref. 19901B-J or 19080? Or am I completely off the radar lol
Sunday, March 17, 2013 - 10:04 pm, by: Daniel Marshall(Ydass)
19080 2x they may be called something else? im going to test my new leads as after replacing them some vibration has gone but not all of it. i had a completly dead lead so prolly was some of my problem. :/
Ahh righto. I've replaced one of the igniter units (symptoms that I noticed was super rough idle, seemed to be only running on 4 cylinders and manifold went red). I'll try swapping it over and see.
Monday, March 18, 2013 - 06:52 am, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
if it is running on 4 probally the coil.
measure the primary on both, should read about 12k ohms.
or disconnect the coils one at time and see if the engine will start. if it starts with one disconnected and not the other disconnected, the one disconnected when it starts is the faulty one
Stumbled upon that thread yesterday, hopefully will get a chance sometime tomorrow or so to start cleaning them up (the majority of them look accessible now with everything out of the way might as well).
So I have cleaned up some of the grounding points and battery terminals, and electric wise it seems to be sorted.
On to the stupid things I managed to do:
In the process I somehow snapped an outlet on the intake pipe for a vacuum hose (or something similar, it's located perpendicular to the hose leading to the IACV) and the small hose coming out the front of the top manifold cover (I don't know the actual name of it, it's where the Toyota badge sits on the engine).
Intake accordian-looking pipe has split near the air flow sensor.
Now I know that these this doesn't help my situation at all and will be replaced sometime this week, however I am still unable to start the car.
The starter sounds kinda wheezy at best. Went ahead and bridged FP-B+ and same result. The only difference that I seem to notice is the sound of the starter, as I haven't heard it do "that" particular noise before.
Besides replacing the intake side piping and top hose that snapped does anyone have any suggestions as to where to go from here?
Thursday, March 28, 2013 - 12:11 pm, by: Rory Braatvedt(Fallward)
Hey mate i'll just add my suggestion, i'm no mechanic but i used to own a Subaru RS Turbo that had similar problems. It wouldn't start when hot (but mine also cut out when driving). Everyone said to replace main relay which i did, but didn't fix the problem. Then i replaced the main ECU and the problem was fixed! See if you can borrow someone's ECU? I know Soarer ECU's have a tendency to have leaking capacitors.
HAZAAR! Before I started to pull it all apart to attack the starter motor I swapped over ECU's.
Left it on ON position for a little (build up a little pressure for the fuel and oil... don't know if it made a difference) and she fires up no sweat. Got a TEMS warning message and realised I left the height controller disconnected (doh).
Won't have a chance to take it out until Thursday though but it seems to be the culprit.
SO, does anyone have a good ECU for sale? Or can anyone recommend someone to rebuild an ECU?
OK so this morning in went the rebuilt computer and everything's gravy. I haven't attempted to sort the hot start issue as of yet (here 's hoping the ECU was the culprit for that too).
Now, just to sort out my front LCA's and whack on some TT front brakes and I'll be done for a while (finger's crossed).
EDIT: Just went for a drive for about an hour in an attempt to recreate the hot start issue, seems to have gone along with the idle surge that's usually linked to the IACV! I'll try again tomorrow and check on the issues once again.
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