Thursday, August 22, 2013 - 09:19 pm, by: John Stafford(Johng12)
I is getting late and I wonder if anyone is up to helping me identify the main ECU wire that comes from the main loom to the right hand O2 sensor so I can rerun it. It has burnt through on the exhaust.
Help, help. My phone number is 0411555284 and I can ring you back. Cheers John
John Stafford DieHard Qld. Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514
Friday, August 23, 2013 - 07:42 am, by: John Stafford(Johng12)
Hey Phil, thanks for going out of your way to send those diagrams late last night. I had some of them but still can't see what I want when I look at them, I went to bed last night at 3am after about 6 hours upside down chafing my hands to get the wiring loom off the back of the motor and pulling it apart.
In the end I did get it off, the plastic boxing was in pieces by that time and I had to glue it back together when it came to reinstalling things. I finally found the wire. It was light green in the heat zone but at the top it was a different story, mid blue with stainless wire in it and then a brownish wire, with a yellow streak, if I remember correctly, running through the centre of it, so two wires in one. This had me wondering as to how I will be able to replace it but I guessed that it was just an efficiency thing, so took my chances and joined to it, soldering a normal wire onto it, running from the O2 sensor. Hope this is ok???
I soldered onto it with what is now a much longer wire, hope that doesn't upset the O2 readings with different resistance??
I then rerouted the wire down beside the steering shaft, away from the heat somewhat and put the old heat resistant flex around it in the critical area near the exhaust.
I used Deutch plugs on my new Denso universal O2 sensors and so the new wire went into the back of that plug.
My only question is: will this longer, different type of wire, effect the readings?
Now the real fun begins as I try to get things back into place behind the motor, with minuscule room. I did finally manage to fit the engine side of the 2 piece plastic fluting back on with its earth straps and lay the wires in it but as yet I have not been able to get the plastic cover for that fluting back on. I will persist this morning afresh.
Not sure if this plastic is the best idea, I think I should have found some totally heat resistant flex and put everything in there, not easy!!
Saturday, August 24, 2013 - 12:23 am, by: John Stafford(Johng12)
I decided to get a bit more room and take off the air intake and that helped quite a bit with the wires that go around alongside the head to the MAF sensor.
I cut off the the piece of plastic that used to take the wire to the O2 sensor on the fluting cover, that was hindering me from getting the cover back on. I found that if I put a zip tie loosely around the fluting it stopped me dropping the cover and having to grovel ontop of the gearbox to get it out and start again. and then after I got the lid lined up I just zip tied it on as the lugs broke off getting it off.
But I do think that a better idea would have been to use some heat resistant flex instead of the plastic fluting. If I had to do it again and could find some heat resistant flex that would be the go.
Well I am up and running again and not much difference in economy on the highway with new working sensors but better around town.
John Stafford DieHard Qld. Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514
Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 09:51 pm, by: John Stafford(Johng12)
Well only one of the sensors is working.
Here is the story: I found the O2 sensors in the Soarer Bible under Oxy sensors in the Eng2 section page 347.
I had a problem with the wire from the right hand oxy sensor burning out on the exhaust and so re ran the wire up past the steering arm, against the body, away from the exhaust inside some heat resistant flex, and up past the master cylinder and across to join the wiring harness behind the motor. This wire is a red with blue stripe on it. It runs inside a blue wire that has stainless steel core. I think this is done to shield the inner red/blue wire. The bad conducting s/steel probably is there to protect the encased wire from the heat in that area. This inner wire goes to pin #47 on the ECU. (the left hand one is pin #48 and the wire is white).
I did not think it out sufficiently and so just cut the 2 wires and soldered them together to the new wire that I had run. Unfortunately the outer stainless cored wire earthed the inner wire out and so there was no signal getting through to the ECU, so only one of the sensors was reading. I thought that I had a faulty sensor but eventually I figured out what I had done wrong in soldering the 2 wires together, so I separated the outer wire from the inner and insulated it away from the real O2 sensor wire, re soldered, insulated and all was fine, signal now clear to the ECU.
Hope this helps others who may run into the same problem. cheers