Wednesday, February 26, 2014 - 11:15 am, by: Matthew Salkeld(Munkymatt)
Hey hey,
So basically I'm about to do a major service on my UZZ32 Soarer (1992 toyota soarer, v8, active suspension model) and I'm wondering where I can find all the parts I need at reasonable prices?
Firstly; Have I forgotten anything? -Oil/Filter/Filler Cap (it's borken ;o) -Air filter, aircon air filter -Timing belt, water pump (leaking), tensioner, idler, gaskets, etc(can be purchased as a kit http://www.rockauto....2634&cc=1187614 ) -Distributer caps, rotors, leads, sparkplugs (haven't checked condition of all yet, but some leads need replacing).
Generally speaking, besides being a bit dirty and old (300,000km) the car runs fine and I cannot find any specific faults other than the leaking water pump and a brake line that needs replacement. I was going to overhaul the idle air valve while I was at it (clean, replace two bearings).
So basically... where can I find these parts without paying insane amounts? The water pump kit from the US is cheaper than local parts even with $100 of express shipping budgeted.
I was going to check out CBC for bearings (I have part numbers and measurements)... but where can I get ignition components like caps/rotors? Where can I find Denso/Bosch parts without buying through Toyota (they seem to double the price of everything... quoted $400 for a timing belt tensioner, $250 for water pump).
Wednesday, February 26, 2014 - 06:04 pm, by: Matthew Salkeld(Munkymatt)
Well... I have a list of items now;
DENSO Oil Filter $3.45 (service part) DENSO Air Filter $15.77 (service part + it's black/clogged/dirty) DENSO Spark Plug x8 $6.84 (plugs looked OK-ish but I'd rather be certain) GATES Oil Filler Cap 3.25 (mine is totally broken) GATES Timing Belt Component Kit (1 Belt, 1 Tensioner, 1 Hydraulic Tensioner, 1 Idler, 1 Water Pump) $182.85 (to fix leaky water pump + general service) AIRTEX/WELLS Distributor Rotor x2 $7.46 (mine are worn) BOSCH Distributor Cap x2 $16.24 (worn) DORMAN Front Caliper Hose $20.97 (broken/spraying brake fluid sometimes)
Total: $328.41; shipping $158.67
These are the parts that I want to get serviced/really need attention... all the components I'm buying need to be serviced/replaced after today's inspection.
Sadly; local parts stores either can't find these parts or quote insane prices.
For example: Standard spark lead replacement for 1uz-fe is $500+ quoted today from CMI Toyota... Bosch OE replacements from the US are $58 + shipping. The cheapest air filter I could find was K&N @ $60+ which is triple the US price and K&N appears to be a solid bad buy anyway (re: http://home.roadrunner.com/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm).
I've had heaps of success with CBC Bearings who will be supplying all the serpentine belt bearings as well as items needed to refurbish idle control valve and other components. Their prices are excellent and what they don't have on the shelf they can find within a day or two.
I'll try and keep a record with photos and such to keep everyone posted on how it's going... I'm guessing that the old "300,000km revival service" is going to become more and more common as time goes on. Also, I really love soarers and I want this active to be as good as it can be (there are so few left!!!!!).
Wednesday, February 26, 2014 - 06:21 pm, by: Daryl Demarte(Helieng)
Matthew,
For the water pump/timing belt kit, you can't go past Toyolex genuine parts - 14 part kit including oem parts, Mitsoboshi belt, Aisin pump, Toyota seals,Toyota thermostat, Bando drive belt for US$299 plus US$75 shipping. Ebay motors # 390392515133.
Thursday, February 27, 2014 - 07:04 pm, by: Mario Lentini(Lexus94)
With the front of the engine striped that far I would also look at changing the oil pump seal and cam seals , I'm with Daryl and would use genuine parts as far as the timing belt and seals go , if you can use Aisin water pump , I have used GMB water pumps and found them ok also . Have you ever changed the fuel filter under the car behind the LH back wheel , F#*King prick of a job but would be well overdue if its never been done . Something else you should look at with the front plate off is the high pressure hose on the suspension pump and power steering high pressure hose , have a look to see if there weeping through the hose or around the fittings .
Friday, February 28, 2014 - 09:30 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Absolutely agree with Mario, do all the front seals whilst you have it apart - fuel filter also - as noted, make sure you have some good flare end spanners before you start as otherwise it's an horrific job! You'll need to add red coolant to your budget too, and make sure you give the system a damn good flush. Might as well replace the thermostat if it's an unknown. Funny about the timing tensioner price you got quoted - I got one late last year for my 2JZ-GE and it was only something like $60 from Toyota. Are you sure they didn't quote you for a V-belt tensioner? They are expensive - even at trade mine cost me over $200 - had to replace it as it was making the most awful rattling noise from the spring.
Friday, February 28, 2014 - 09:41 am, by: Matthew Salkeld(Munkymatt)
Yep I'm sure; both belt tensioners were expensive... CBC bearings had both parts available at 1/4 of toyota's price but still about 4 times US prices.
As much as I like genuine parts; they're not worth the insane price tag. That said, you DO have to be careful about which manufacturers you buy from. Denso, Bosch and some of Gates' stuff is very high quality; as evident by the fact that they are OEM suppliers for other parts of the car (or other models). If GMB is who I think they are they're very closely related to AC Delco who are VERY stringent regarding quality control on the production side.
The fuel filter is quite separate so I can do that at a later date when I look at doing the other rear-end jobs. Seals and hoses at the front look to be in good condition but i have seals to do them if necessary.
Funnily enough; the parts I ordered are in Australia already and should arrive Monday (for reasons unknown "weekday delivery" was stipulated by the sender and I doubt I'll get them by today).
Ross Pesina DieHard Vic Soarer V8, Soarer T, Supra TT.
Friday, February 28, 2014 - 12:07 pm, by: Ross Pesina(Ross79)
I agree with Mario, change the cam and crank seals. Also valve cover seals but make sure you use silicone all the way around. I didn't do this and had to pull the valve covers off again after 10k.
Change the oil and filter in the auto. Make sure you use genuine TIV oil. I do mine every 100k and never had a problem (now over 300k).
I buy whatever's cheapest for the kit and never had an issue. BUT I only use GENUINE cam and crank seals as I've had issues with aftermarket.
Friday, February 28, 2014 - 06:26 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Do you guys buy into the argument that Toyota developed a line of fuel filters that 'never' need replacement?
I have read articles online (so take that as you will) that Toyota worked out the filter area needed to provide the required flow, and then designed the filter so that after eleventy million km there is still sufficient flow. That is why they don't specify a replacement period for fuel filters and they are often in a prick of a spot, or hard to replace. (because they were not intended to be replaced)
I changed the one on my TT at 100,000km and when I blew it out backwards very little debris came out. I even went about reverse flowing it with Kero and the kero came out remarkably clean. I wish I had the ability to accurately flow test it against the new item.
Friday, February 28, 2014 - 08:53 pm, by: Allan Langford(Allan)
they are just a paper filter, depending on how clean the fuel you put in it is will decide how long it lasts, some servos are slack at changing the pump filters sometimes the pump itself is putting crap into the fuel as it wares out...
Saturday, March 01, 2014 - 08:45 am, by: Matthew Salkeld(Munkymatt)
Well, I probably won't bother with the fuel filter... I've cleaned out a few fuel filters and fuel tanks in my time and you know what? the tanks were all perfectly spotless and the filters were all perfectly clean. I've never found anything in a fuel filter. Air filters are usually clogged and •••••• pretty quickly; sometimes oil filters are too (I usually slice them open to see if there's excessive material in them).
Saturday, March 01, 2014 - 12:09 pm, by: Matthew Salkeld(Munkymatt)
knife and twist or can opener the bottom or even hacksaw if youre in a hurry, what you're looking for is in the folds of the filter not the outside so it doesnt really matter if you get crap all over the outer edges.
Ross Pesina DieHard Vic Soarer V8, Soarer T, Supra TT.
Tuesday, March 04, 2014 - 11:08 pm, by: Ross Pesina(Ross79)
Maybe the fuel is better in s.a. But I've ended up replacing fuel filters on all my soarers and every time I found they had a fair bit rubbish when tapped on the ground in reverse. With my supra I had to drop and clean the tank twice.
Friday, March 07, 2014 - 08:36 pm, by: Matthew Salkeld(Munkymatt)
Abandon all hope, ye who enter here.
The UZZ32 timing belt service is, by an order of magnitude, the hardest mechanical job I've ever done. This is from a guy who's shoe-horned engines into chassis' where they have no right to be shoe-horned. Everything is greasy. Everything looks the same. All the bolts are hard to get to. There are at least 29 fluid lines in your way no matter which angle you come from.
I'm currently drinking my consolation beer while I ponder what could go wrong and wallow in the feeling of dread before test starting the car. I haven't bothered putting coolant or power steering fluid in it yet just in case something doesn't work and I have to engage in another 40 hours of work to disassemble again.
Wish me luck friends.
On the plus side, I'm ready to write a huge article about how •••• actives are to work on and provide information to other owners on which parts the actives need serviced (like the Vane Pump pulleys - mine were hilariously •••••• up and needed changing - never seen this mentioned on the Internet as yet).
Friday, March 07, 2014 - 09:30 pm, by: Mario Lentini(Lexus94)
That's why I do everything I feel needs to be done when that front plate is off the engine Matthew ,Even went as far as checking the small oval stainless plate behind the suspension pump , have known them to leak after time. Did you check the two high pressure hoses , one of them is almost impossible to get to with the front plate on . I didn't think there was anything on this earth as bad as doing a timing belt on the 32 or even just the Alt is a job on its own , well I found I was wrong , had to do a job on a Merc-Benz Van ,Had to fit a new serpentine belt that's all . Well you start by removing the radiator water bottle , plastic trim away from wipers , radiator top munts , head lights , thermo fan , radiator support bracket and head light brackets , front bumper , pull the AC condenser forward , remover radiators hoses top and bottom , fan shroud , pull radiator out while not ••••••• the condenser and there it is , you can now see the belt , fit the new belt 5 mins , put it all the •••• back and bleed the radiator 5+ hours , priceless lol .32 not so bad after all . }
Friday, March 07, 2014 - 09:49 pm, by: Matthew Salkeld(Munkymatt)
......... you just reminded me that i forgot to check that small suspension plate... if that thing is stuffed I'm probably going to set myself on fire. In the car.
I'm just delirious after a marathon work session to get the soarer done... now I'm bleeding, dirty, headache-y, starving due to skipping dinner and about to jump into bed to finish the job in the morning. Yeah I cleaned and repaired/rebuilt/replaced every single item behind the front plate (and in front) except for the vane pump (because it's reputedly invincible), alternator (it's new) and AC comp, because it's new too.
Oh and good thing I checked front main seal and L-Cam oil seals because they were both TOTALLY stuffed... wonky, brittle and leaking... much like all my pulley bearings were.
dude that water plate behind the vane pump is really scaring me now
Saturday, March 08, 2014 - 09:05 am, by: Mario Lentini(Lexus94)
Matthew don't worry about the plate , if you need to get to it you can with ALMOST everything on , The first one I did I think I had to take the bolts off the suspension pump and move it aside as much as I could to get to the bolts and plate so it can be done .
Saturday, March 08, 2014 - 10:59 am, by: Matthew Salkeld(Munkymatt)
i think it will need to be done... started the car up this morning and it still leaks... ive just redone the thermostat housing seals... the seal that came with the water pump failed. I'm just hoping the main water pump seal hasn't failed too... T_T
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