Hey Rob, my one doesn't do the idle looping you mention. It idles real good, just under the 1000RPM. Yes I have also recently cleaned the IACV and cleaned the throttle body as well. My air filter was real bad when I bought the car, but that was replaced immediately with a service. The lack of power in my one is only due to the transmission going to the highest gear almost instantly after take off. Once the car finally winds up to a decent rev range the power feels as it should, I just don't get the kickdown when I press down on the accelerator.
It really does seem that the signal going from the ECU to the transmission has a breakdown somewhere.
Unfortunately it is hard to tell most times what the issues may be, unless you perform some trouble shooting. Even more unfortunately is trouble shooting can be expensive.
Wednesday, October 15, 2014 - 03:08 pm, by: Rob Charles(Pearl_white)
I agree Harry - costs a lot to diagnose these things if taking it to someone - the replacement part however, is usually cheap which is an upside
When you say your idle is just under 1000rpm, is this in park, or drive with foot on brake?
Soarer should idle at 650rpm +/- 50rpm when warm in drive from what I read. Also, a cold start idle is 1000rpm.
When my car is acting normally, cold start idle is 1000rpm, and when warm in drive with foot on brake, it is 700rpm. When my car is acting up, cold start idle is 1200rpm max, and when in drive with foot on the brake, i idle at 1000rpm...
I unplugged maf before - I could get wheelspin from a standstill. I did not really gain all my power back however... All i gained was the ability to wheelspin with the foot down at the lights.
With maf in , i have almost zero take off power. Can floor it and the car is a slug. No spin.
With maf out, i can wheel spin - but it still seems to be lacking power. Car used to take 7 seconds or less to 100km/h, now it takes 8-9 seconds for example. With maf unplugged, it wheelspins - but has no midrange power seemingly.
When i first got this car months ago, it was a beast - now it is a slug, even with maf disconnected, although it does wheelspin.
I don't know for sure exactly as it doesn't show any numbers below 1000RPM, but if I was to guess, it sits on around 700-750RPM when warm in Drive. A bit more than that in Neutral or Park.
I don't get wheel spin on my Soarer from take off, but in all honesty I haven't really tried either. It doesn't bother me, I much prefer power to the ground for a faster take off.
Anyway I have a much more powerful V8 for my hardcore driving, the Soarer is more of my hobby car and my daily run around.
Hi guys, Good news on my dilemma with the gearbox. I hope it is good news anyway.
After picking the car up from the Transmission mechanic the other day, yes I didn't notice any change with the way the gears were shifting.
However the next day after driving for a round ten minutes I noticed the gearbox came good and gears were shifting correctly. Took it back home and let it rest overnight and again this morning gearbox was perfect from start up.
Not sure as to why it didn't work right away, the mechanic did advise he had cleared any error codes, but do you think the ECU had to recalibrate itself and now it should be fine? I certainly hope so.
Wednesday, March 11, 2015 - 11:57 am, by: Rob Charles(Pearl_white)
Good to hear Harry!
I have a small update also.
Ran a series of diags over a few weeks. Sometimes i get an error code 63, which is the #2 solenoid playing up.
Other times i get error -- for ect and efi. Usually ect turns into error 63, efi stays blank. Half the time ect and efi also say 'OK'. So - no idea.
The book says if 63 appears, in D you should go from 1st gear to 4th gear - no 2nd or 3rd gear.
I am however getting all gears perfectly, the car is just a slug.
The wheel spin upon take off with the foot down thing that i mentioned- implies the car has 100% power. If you can not get wheel spin from take off, something is wrong.
Now, I myself don't really try to wheel spin from launch either - but all cars should be able to do this without a 2nd thought really - at least a little chirp.
My old 2 tonne jag could do it also - 230nm torque, 140kw power (straight six). It would spin the tyres up real well, and was quicker from take off than this soarer.
If you go to pull out in a hurry - or cross a roundabout or similar - you need that power.
My Soarer is a slug. If i go to take off, it does not spin, or even rev or gain speed in a hurry.
It takes roughly 2-3 seconds to hit 3000rpm from 750. (should be pretty much instant).
Usually a soarer needs 1-2 seconds to pull out from a stop, but mine needs 3 seconds or so if that makes sense.
I know that if i can wheelspin from a stop, that all my power has returned and i can pull out in a hurry or what not. Just ease up on the pedal to not spin and you are fine
Usually I can't spin - thus have no power - and can't pull out in a hurry. Car has full power over 3000rpm however - just a slug from 750 to 3000rpm.
My mothers 4 cylinder beat it to 50kmh the other day...
In Drive - if you put the foot down - the car just slowly builds rpm - then when it hits 3000 it is a rocket again usually.
It's like driving a 4 cyl car til you hit 3000, then you are driving a v8 lol...
Yeah so - Error 63 and 84 are my two codes. 84 is the front right suspension being too high for whatever reason... Error 63 is solenoid 2.
Been quoted $150 for solenoid 1 and 2 from a trans shop in S.A.
Just wondering - is this all down to the ECU throwing random codes and faults - or is this actually a trans error and so on... Time will tell.
Found out that even if you remove the ECU bolts - the ECU is still stuck to this frame thing behind it as if it was glued - so can't get that out yet.
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