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Kush Chaudhary
Tinkerer
Queensland
1UZ 5spd Manual

Posts: 20
Reg: 07-2013

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Friday, June 06, 2014 - 11:19 am, by:  Kush Chaudhary (1uz_hilux) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi there,

Recently my 1UZ has become harder to start. It takes several cranks for it to start up and when it's running, it's perfect.

Could this be the starter ready to die?

Also, tappets are becoming quite noisy. I'm going to run some injector cleaner through it to see if that helps. Currently running 10W40 oil. Motor has done around 210XXX klms. What grade oil would you guys recommend?

Thanks in advance!
Tom Richards
Goo Roo
nsw
V8

Posts: 1845
Reg: 08-2005

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Friday, June 06, 2014 - 12:59 pm, by:  Tom Richards (Tomr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

noisy tappets can only be "fixed" by re shimming.
Mike Beck
Goo Roo
New Zealand
Toyota Soarer 3.0GT & BMW 340i 1UZ

Posts: 5766
Reg: 11-2005

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Friday, June 06, 2014 - 05:03 pm, by:  Mike Beck (Gold_40gt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hmmm yeah its probably the back passenger side exhaust shim too. Usually the first one to go.
Scott Vim
DieHard
Vic
Soarer (1uz) Chaser (1jz)

Posts: 846
Reg: 12-2010

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Friday, June 06, 2014 - 07:27 pm, by:  Scott Vim (1uz1jz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If they are noisy is it a problem? Mine have been noisy for years. I heard re shimming can get power gains but not huge and hardly worth it. Any idea of cost for re shimming and whether its worth it.
Matthew Salkeld
TryHard
South Australia
1JZ powered 180sx

Posts: 225
Reg: 07-2008

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Friday, June 06, 2014 - 08:40 pm, by:  Matthew Salkeld (Munkymatt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

afaik the tools required are cheap and the shims themselves are cheap too... the job is just very time consuming and quite fiddly. A workshop would probably charge an arm and a leg for it.
Ian Johnston
Goo Roo
South Australia
1995 UZZ31, BA XR6Turbo Ute. 2007 VE GTS.

Posts: 2008
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, June 06, 2014 - 09:10 pm, by:  Ian Johnston (Ted) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My 1995 spins over more than my 1991 used to, I thought it may have something to do with the later different injection.
Or am I talking out my bum??
John Stafford
DieHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 821
Reg: 02-2010

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Friday, June 06, 2014 - 09:43 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My 31 doesn't turn over near as fast as my 32 since I put a new starter motor in the 32, so maybe it is a tired starter?
Kush Chaudhary
Tinkerer
Queensland
1UZ 5spd Manual

Posts: 21
Reg: 07-2013

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Sunday, June 08, 2014 - 10:29 am, by:  Kush Chaudhary (1uz_hilux) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'm hoping that is the case, John. Currently on uni holidays so something to do I guess.

Also, what oil are you guys using?
John Stafford
DieHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 822
Reg: 02-2010

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Sunday, June 08, 2014 - 11:12 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I use full synthetic Penrite 10/40+
John Street
TryHard
NSW
VE Calais V8,97 UZZ31, 2009 Saab 9-3 Turbo

Posts: 425
Reg: 08-2005

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Monday, June 09, 2014 - 05:22 pm, by:  John Street (Rex2ce) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I use full synthetic Nulon 5w- 30
Kush Chaudhary
Tinkerer
Queensland
1UZ 5spd Manual

Posts: 22
Reg: 07-2013

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Thursday, June 12, 2014 - 01:00 pm, by:  Kush Chaudhary (1uz_hilux) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for that guys. So on a scale of 1-10, how difficult would it be to change a starter? I've read some of the 'how to' guides and it doesn't seem too bad.

I've changed the alternator which was pretty easy.
Tom Richards
Goo Roo
nsw
V8

Posts: 1859
Reg: 08-2005

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Thursday, June 12, 2014 - 03:54 pm, by:  Tom Richards (Tomr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

if it is cranking over, i doubt the problem is the starter motor. i have heard they are a prick to change, but do not know 1st hand

have you tried shorting B+ to FP in the diagnostic plug?
Ian Johnston
Goo Roo
South Australia
1995 UZZ31, BA XR6Turbo Ute. 2007 VE GTS.

Posts: 2012
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, June 12, 2014 - 05:34 pm, by:  Ian Johnston (Ted) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Starter change, on a scale 1-10, would be an 11.
You have to take the inlet manifold off, and I gather the bolts are a plick to get at at the rear of the engine.
What a stupid place to put a starter motor.
John Street
TryHard
NSW
VE Calais V8,97 UZZ31, 2009 Saab 9-3 Turbo

Posts: 427
Reg: 08-2005

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Thursday, June 12, 2014 - 07:08 pm, by:  John Street (Rex2ce) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have just had the pleasure of changing a starter on my V8 and would agree with Ian's summation.
Its a simple matter of stripping parts off the motor until you come to the mounting bolts for the starter, you can use a flexible ratchet ringy to get the top one, but after loosening the bottom one you have to unscrew it all the way with your fingertips, all the while leaning over the guard, obviously doing it all again on re-assembly
John Stafford
DieHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 828
Reg: 02-2010

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Friday, June 13, 2014 - 07:37 am, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey Cush, Here is my experience in changing my Starter motor on my 32.

Hi all,
I thought that I would add to the pot of knowledge by sharing my experience in changing the starter motor on my 32.

I bought a starter motor from Trump in Melbourne on ebay for $250 delivered, good price.

Here is the secret to getting the starter out:
Take everything off the top of the motor, including the lower intake manifold, that hides the starter motor.
You need to have the right tools, that is the secret.
You need a flexy jointed 3/8" ratchet with a 14 mil socket to go behind the wiring loom and the water bridge at the back of the motor (I have a cresent ratchet that I bought at Bunnings for $35 that allows the head to move away from the horizontal axis, this tool is perfect for undoing the top nut on the main engine mounts too, saves your sanity and makes engine mount changing so much easier).
It depends on how big your hand is as to what you have to do to get down behind the engine between the firewall. You will need to spin the spring clamp on the large water hose around so that the spiky bits don't dig too far into your wrist and then if need be you might need to undo the rear transmission mount and remove it so that you can jack the transmission up a bit, tilting the engine forward to widen the gap between the engine and the firewall, so you can get your hand down to break the tightness of the 2 x 14 mil bolts that hold the starter in place from the rear.

Once you have broken the tightness of these bolts you need a flex head ratchet ring spanner (I have a set of Kincrome that cost me $125 at Bunnings, you can get "Snap on" - very expensive- or go to
http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/12-pc-X-Beam-Flex-Combination-Ratcheting-Wrench-Set-Metric-P139 748.aspx and buy a set from the U.S. Great value here.
Having these spanners will make life so much easier for so many jobs, you will wonder how you did without them.
You can then come in through the gap above the starter motor from the engine side with your flexi ring spanner, and with your other hand coming down behind the loom to apply pressure on the bolt head, so the ratchet works, just undo the bolts and when they are undone take them out with a flexi grabber, those extended reach claws, so you don't drop them down around the gear box bell housing and have to find them again.

Undo the bolt that secures the steel water line from the front to the back of the block, just near the starter, so that things are freed up a bit so you can get to the main electrical terminal hidden near that water pipe, and undo it so you can take the starter out.
Unplug the spade connection behind that main large wire and you are ready to take the starter out.

Now just put the new starter in and reverse your procedures to put everything back together.

I extended the smaller of the 2 wiring harness connections by about 100 mils to make it easier to put the spade connection on to the back of the starter.
The new starter had a different spade plug, which meant I had to destroy the plastic surround of the old plug on the loom so I could get the larger than normal spade connector on to the male end sticking out of the starter connection. The old plug would not go into the new fitting on the starter without removing the plastic surrounds.
After breaking the plastic surrounds on the female spade and pushing it onto the male on the starter, I then insulated this connection with some good quality 3M electrical tape and then wrapped that in my heat resistant tape that costs about $5/role delivered. This "Kapton" tape resists 300 degrees heat, so is great for under bonnet work. Get some. Google "heat resistant tape" and you will find it. It is amber in colour.

Replacing the starter motor is a big job and may take a weekend to finish along with any tidying up, so hope this helps prepare you for the task if decide to tackle it.
The cost of the tools is much cheaper than it would cost if you paid someone else to do it and then you have these great spanners for other jobs.

I took my alternator out (you need to undo the engine and transmission mounts and jack the motor to get this out of the 32 without anxiety) and replaced the diode pack (rectifier), my regulator and brush holder at the same time so all my electrical is in top condition. 2 of my diodes were burnt out, maybe from the big drain caused by the aged sticking starter motor? It is good to check these things. I got my parts from Trump auto electrical in Melbourne. They advertise on ebay.
cheers John.
Ian Johnston
Goo Roo
South Australia
1995 UZZ31, BA XR6Turbo Ute. 2007 VE GTS.

Posts: 2014
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, June 13, 2014 - 04:40 pm, by:  Ian Johnston (Ted) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The Gearwrench stuff is available at Masters. I got myself a set last year. And I dont think they were that expensive.
Daryl Demarte
TryHard
Victoria
IS300 & UZZ32

Posts: 155
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, June 15, 2014 - 06:41 pm, by:  Daryl Demarte (Helieng) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Guys,

This message started out about noisy tappets, so thought I would add my thoughts about them.

Yes it is a fiddly job to adjust them, but well worth it in the end - very quiet and smooth. If they are done properly all you hear are the injectors working.
I have added some photos of what happens if they are neglected - not a good outcome as I'm sure you will all agree!! And NO these are not off my cars!



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Robert Day
DieHard
victoria
v8 & TT

Posts: 742
Reg: 01-2007

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Sunday, June 15, 2014 - 07:15 pm, by:  Robert Day (Lexsmaz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Daryl,

You will find the photos you showed are not due to loose clearances / noisy tappets as when the clearances are greater it means the valves are in fact shut for a longer period of time which then actually allows more time for heat dissipation of the valve head into the valve seat, which helps prevent burning out the valves like you have shown, the valve you have shown is most probably due to overly tight clearances ( quite a bit less than normal clearances ) or damaged valve seats due to some other cause ..
Daryl Demarte
TryHard
Victoria
IS300 & UZZ32

Posts: 156
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, June 15, 2014 - 08:05 pm, by:  Daryl Demarte (Helieng) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Robert,

Yes I know that, hence the reason to check valve clearances not so much because they are noisy, but because they (specially the exhaust valves) can have little or no clearance, because they do stretch over time. You will find that the inlets are not subjected to this stretching as much because of the cooling effect of the incoming fuel/air charge.
Kush Chaudhary
Tinkerer
Queensland
1UZ 5spd Manual

Posts: 23
Reg: 07-2013

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Monday, June 16, 2014 - 12:15 pm, by:  Kush Chaudhary (1uz_hilux) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Cheers for the reply guys.

Tom Richards - It WAS cranking over a few weeks ago but now nothing. All it does is a loud clicking noise. When it was starting, it would crank for a little while before coming to life

John Stafford - Thanks for the detailed reply mate. Hopefully mine is similar to that as my 1UZ is in my 4x4 Hilux!


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Tom Richards
Goo Roo
nsw
V8

Posts: 1863
Reg: 08-2005

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Monday, June 16, 2014 - 12:53 pm, by:  Tom Richards (Tomr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

kush normal faults that give your symptoms are
1) flat battery (sounds very likely to me)
2) dirty batt connections.
3) bad earth, main one 800mm back from -batt terminal to chassis.
4) loose connection on starter solenoid.

I would double check all of these before i even thought about changing the starter motor.
Kush Chaudhary
Tinkerer
Queensland
1UZ 5spd Manual

Posts: 24
Reg: 07-2013

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Monday, June 16, 2014 - 04:17 pm, by:  Kush Chaudhary (1uz_hilux) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I did check the battery prior to starting and it was around 12.4V but I didn't check under load.. Did check the batt cons and earth and they seemed okay.

Was quite easy taking it apart. Took me just over an hour to get it out!
Tom Richards
Goo Roo
nsw
V8

Posts: 1864
Reg: 08-2005

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Monday, June 16, 2014 - 07:42 pm, by:  Tom Richards (Tomr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

measuring the batt voltage under no load is a waste of time.


I would guess 12.4v is a flat batt.
Kush Chaudhary
Tinkerer
Queensland
1UZ 5spd Manual

Posts: 25
Reg: 07-2013

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Tuesday, June 24, 2014 - 11:52 am, by:  Kush Chaudhary (1uz_hilux) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That may have contributed to the hard start as well then?

I had my starter looked at by my local auto leccy and the contacts were shagged. One contact was a lot higher than the other in thickness?? He replaced both contacts, plunger and regreased all bearings and cleaned the brushes so all good now. Just got to bolt it all back in

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