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Scott Vim
Goo Roo
Vic
Soarer (1uz) Chaser (1jz)

Posts: 1414
Reg: 12-2010

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Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 08:33 pm, by:  Scott Vim (1uz1jz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'm coming to a stage where my Soarer needs a little attention. I plan to attack the steering rack bushes tomorrow. I have three other issue I want to get on top of.

1) Coolant leak. Is a minor leak. Takes a couple of litres after 3 months or so. Put up with it for a long time. Sometimes it seems to go longer. Found coolant around the block inspection seal (near the alternator) and had it sealed up. Also did the water pump 2 months ago. Some of you will remember I had major issues with the timing belt from these guys so don't know if they stuffed the pump install but I assume it's good since the leak was before and after the major service. New radiator and no visible leaks anywhere. No red/pink stains. Can not see any sign of leaks while car running. Any ideas guys? I'm worried it's burning coolant? I plan to try a new radiator cap but surely I would see some evidence of leaks on splash tray. This gets me to my next point.

2) Oil leak on splash tray under P/S reservoir. Replaced return hose and it had 100s of cracks in it and was wet. Leak still occurs and I was about to buy a new reservoir but lucky I washed it all down before hand and the leak has not reappeared. It's also a very slow hard to find leak. P/S pump is newly rebuilt. Is there any lines that leak like vacuum lines? Where do they run? I plan to get under there and have a good look tomorrow (washed it down 2 days ago).
I was probably take it to a mechanic to pressure test radiator anyway.

3) When she is cold she has a bit of a clunking/whiring sound that is consistent with the RPM. Doesn't sound too healthy. But it has plenty of power and besides the loud ticking runs great both cold and warm. Anything I can use to quieten it down? I'm using 10w40. I'm hoping it's sound carbon build up. I've always changed the oil etc. I know the 1uz to be very strong and reliable. 600,000 miles in the states. Mine is just a baby 260,000kms. I can't believe that it's too old or tired just yet.
Myles Jantzen
TryHard
SA
SC 400 V8

Posts: 216
Reg: 08-2008

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Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 10:23 pm, by:  Myles Jantzen (Maxx999) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Scott,

Have you replaced any of the coolant hoses? The original clips will not be as snug with aftermarket hoses and leak slightly.

P/S system- Best to do search on here and will give you heaps of pictures and info, make sure everything is clean and check for leaks, might be loose hose or clamp somewhere, crush washer on hydraulic fan setup etc. Maybe even underneath the car like steering rack boots, solenoid on rack etc.

Number 3 sounds like might be belt or something......maybe serp belt tensioner.....try to listen where it is coming from.

PFFFTTTT!...........600K miles .................try 900!

http://carbuying.jalopnik.com/im-driving-a-lexus-with-900-000-miles-across-the-countr-1684015600/168 6272604/+travis
Tom Richards
Goo Roo
nsw
V8

Posts: 2088
Reg: 08-2005

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Thursday, February 19, 2015 - 09:14 am, by:  Tom Richards (Tomr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

there is a vacuum line to a switch on the PS pump that goes to the throttle body and also to an outlet above the thermostat. The actual switch can fail and leak out PS fluid that will go thru the throttle body and be burnt. Pull the hose and see if there is fluid inside it.

Re losing water, Dave Rose posted a little mod a while back. he runs the over flow outlet hose into another bottle he has mounted behind the grill. Start with the bottle half full.
Scott Vim
Goo Roo
Vic
Soarer (1uz) Chaser (1jz)

Posts: 1415
Reg: 12-2010

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Thursday, February 19, 2015 - 06:41 pm, by:  Scott Vim (1uz1jz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Spent some time under the car today. I noticed-
1) One of the hoses that goes into the radiator (auto trans) the rubber hose is covered in what I think is auto fluid. Gave it a clean. Not sure if coming from above yet. Looks dry on the other hose.

2) LHS steering rack boot has bit of oil seeping out from the wheel side. If I squeeze the boot a little bit more comes out.

3) Near the crank/harmonic balancer there is oil on the sump. It looks old and dried and maybe diluted with water? Hard to tell but I'm trying to clean it and its hard to reach. I think the cross member is in the way. The actual sump where the drain plug is, is fairly dry. Looks like auto sump has a drop on it.

The first one looks like an easy fix if it's just the hose. I know it had a slight cam leak before the major service and seal was replaced. So maybe after a clean no leaks will be present.
As for steering rack I was hoping a seal could be replaced but think I have to replace the while rack? Is this where they leak or maybe oil got in there from elsewhere? Leaking hose is on opposite side.
Scott Vim
Goo Roo
Vic
Soarer (1uz) Chaser (1jz)

Posts: 1416
Reg: 12-2010

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Thursday, February 19, 2015 - 06:45 pm, by:  Scott Vim (1uz1jz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Tom I couldn't find that thread but I already thought to even just put a coke bottle there to see if I am getting much coolant loss that way. Must be an issue though otherwise Toyota would have put an overflow there from factory. Will try another radiator cap tomorrow or Saturday.

Tom I saw in a previous post you said you can block off all vaccum lines at power steering pump without any bad effects?
Tom Richards
Goo Roo
nsw
V8

Posts: 2089
Reg: 08-2005

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Thursday, February 19, 2015 - 07:09 pm, by:  Tom Richards (Tomr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

scott the vacuum to the PS pump is so that revs automatically increase when you go on full lock to stop the car stalling due to the load.

blocking off the 2 vacuum points (above thermostat and into throttle body, and also on PS pump end) stops this function. People who have done this do not notice any difference. They have done it due to PS fluid leaking out thru the switch/sensor.
Scott Vim
Goo Roo
Vic
Soarer (1uz) Chaser (1jz)

Posts: 1418
Reg: 12-2010

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Thursday, February 19, 2015 - 08:13 pm, by:  Scott Vim (1uz1jz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

And the sensor is not important? Is it just for the function as mentioned of increasing the revs at full lock. Do people rip out the sensor and all the lines? And I'm assuming both ends need to be blocked off?
Dave Rose
Goo Roo
wa
UZZ31 / ML320 CDI

Posts: 2601
Reg: 03-2007

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Thursday, February 19, 2015 - 09:32 pm, by:  Dave Rose (Sand_groper) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Scott leave the sensor ,just block the one pipe that goes to plenum chamber , the other just goes to air cleaner
Rob Charles
TryHard
Victoria
V8 UZZ31

Posts: 190
Reg: 07-2014

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Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 11:40 am, by:  Rob Charles (Pearl_white) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

1. Change radiator cap.

I had a coolant leak - it was the cap. No more leak. Repco has them for $15. Change it every 2 years or what not. Obviously, this is always the first thing you should do before listening to forum stories about other expensive nonsense.


2 and 3. You're on your own.
Scott Vim
Goo Roo
Vic
Soarer (1uz) Chaser (1jz)

Posts: 1512
Reg: 12-2010

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Tuesday, August 11, 2015 - 11:18 am, by:  Scott Vim (1uz1jz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ok update guys.

3) Turned out to be the transmission mount was stuffed causing heaps of noise transfer and shaking. Didn't realise how bad it was until i got it fixed. Interior rattles have been reduced since this has been fixed.

2) Looks like i have the infamous power steering pump leak. I had alternator failure and when i took it out it had a bit of oil on it. The leak must be small over a long period of time because i almost never need to top up the ps fluid.

1) I bought UV dye to help me find the minor leak.

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